I just got my IPT restalled TC in and HOLY SHEEIT, what a difference!!! I brake boosted at the line with 22psi of boost and broke all the tires loose for a good second or two. John over at IPT answered all my questions and got the TC out to me real quick. Great company to deal with and they really know what they are doing over there! I am mega impressed and happy with the results. One of the best purchases I've made for my DSM!!



Mods, you can close this thread right away if need be, I don't want to turn this into another arguement by people who don't have any personaly experience with what they are talking about. I wanted to get some first hand information out there to the AT crowd.

Matt,

What stall rpm was the TC re-stalled to? John at IPT has been trying to talk me into a TC for my car but i have been putting it off. Maybe this will be my winter project.

That is awesome man how many rpms are u stalling at?

"Mods, you can close this thread right away if need be, I don't want to turn this into another arguement by people who don't have any personaly experience with what they are talking about."

-I was invovled in that thread and I hope you aint talkin about me

But sounds like that IPT converter is doing an awesome job. How come u didnt go with the all out billet one? This is gonna seriously gonna be my next mod.. My 60-1 is soo laggy and i got a stock converter i can launch with 2200rpms which equals no boost So u can imagine my car really really and i mean really sucks in the low end..Even with a 4k stall I can will only launch with 10psi But then again im FWD 10psi should just be perfect without losing too much traction.

TURFNNSURF said:

Matt,

What stall rpm was the TC re-stalled to? John at IPT has been trying to talk me into a TC for my car but i have been putting it off. Maybe this will be my winter project.

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I was hitting the brake til about 3500 and letting off because I was at full boost (22psi). It was insane at that. John told me to hammer the brake and gas some more so I am guessing somewhere around 4000+ rpms... I'm telling you, you can't go wrong with the IPT restalled stocker..

Eclipsei95cl said:

That is awesome man how many rpms are u stalling at?

"Mods, you can close this thread right away if need be, I don't want to turn this into another arguement by people who don't have any personaly experience with what they are talking about."

-I was invovled in that thread and I hope you aint talkin about me

But sounds like that IPT converter is doing an awesome job. How come u didnt go with the all out billet one? This is gonna seriously gonna be my next mod.. My 60-1 is soo laggy and i got a stock converter i can launch with 2200rpms which equals no boost So u can imagine my car really really and i mean really sucks in the low end..Even with a 4k stall I can will only launch with 10psi But then again im FWD 10psi should just be perfect without losing too much traction.

Click to expand...

I didn't go with billet converter because it was out of my price range. Once I have my full drag setup I will probably switch over to the billet to cut down on the rotational mass a bit and get some ponies back.

As expected, the shifts are going to feel a tad more slack and loose beacuse of the restaleld converter as I was told ahead of time. I am waiting for the line pressure adjustment box that John is working on so I can get the shift firmness feeling back like I had with the stock converter.

As far as the mis-information goes, I am not blaming anyone and chose not to get involved with it beyond giving my 2 cents. However misinformation can spread like a drunken promdate and can ruin/cripple a business unfairly.

RuBiCaNT5X said:

I didn't go with billet converter because it was out of my price range. Once I have my full drag setup I will probably switch over to the billet to cut down on the rotational mass a bit and get some ponies back.

As expected, the shifts are going to feel a tad more slack and loose beacuse of the restaleld converter as I was told ahead of time. I am waiting for the line pressure adjustment box that John is working on so I can get the shift firmness feeling back like I had with the stock converter.

As far as the mis-information goes, I am not blaming anyone and chose not to get involved with it beyond giving my 2 cents. However misinformation can spread like a drunken promdate and can ruin/cripple a business unfairly.

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So as of now with this TC your car is running differnt? what is this line pressure adjustment box? I just want a bad ass converter but keepin my car driveablity the way it normally should ride.

The shift box has selectable resistors that allow you to change the shift firmness characteristics. It goes from transparent to "race". I don't think there is any true daily drivability characteristics that are lost. If anything it improves daily drivability by helping on the low end.
Funny, if you look at a list of "first mods" for Syclones and Typhoons, a restalled or different TC isn't too far from the top. It needs to be this way for AT DSMers, otherwise all the power we think we're harnessing is lost.
Mike

98TalonTSi said:

Funny, if you look at a list of "first mods" for Syclones and Typhoons, a restalled or different TC isn't too far from the top. It needs to be this way for AT DSMers, otherwise all the power we think we're harnessing is lost.
Mike

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I don't know if I'd agree with that statement. We're not really loosing any power with the stock coverter. The biggest difference with the TCs come during the launch. As soon as the engine is in the power band, the only difference a restalled converter will make is LESS power, due to the fact it's is now looser and converter efficiency is actually lower. Personally, the converter made for a quicker brake torque, and MAYBE slightly more punch during the kickdown shift, but that's it.

Good point......But that's where you want it. A looser converter won't lose that much on the top end to where it defeats the purpose of the upgrade. For every 1/10th off the bottom, you gain something like 2/10 th on the top.
I have some back-up first hand to that.
I ran a 14.2@102with a 2.39 60' with a B16g, 550s, no boost control, no fuel control, an exhaust, and an intake. Everything else was stock. It was really really cold adn was the last day to race at E-town for the season. The car creeped to 18 psi and then spiked to 25 at shift.
I now have the current list of mods that you can see in my profile, and with some really shitty tuning and within the last few weeks...I ran a 14.4@94 with a 2.30 60'. I let off on 3/4 of the because of how much timing was being pulled..it wasn't worth blowing my motor. The next run I ran (at 17psi) a 15.4@87 letting off 1/2 way because of more timing being pulled. (the stock intercooler obviously has to go and I desperately need to finish installing my WB02).
If the car was tuned well I bet I could've ran my fastest, and with slicks and a different IC, it could be faster.

Jehu said:

I don't know if I'd agree with that statement. We're not really loosing any power with the stock coverter. The biggest difference with the TCs come during the launch. As soon as the engine is in the power band, the only difference a restalled converter will make is LESS power, due to the fact it's is now looser and converter efficiency is actually lower. Personally, the converter made for a quicker brake torque, and MAYBE slightly more punch during the kickdown shift, but that's it.

Click to expand...

I havn't purchased a convertor for my dsm yet, but I have purchased many for my SB and BB chevys. Depending on who the convertor is from they all react differently. Some are more efficient then others. I once purchased a brand new 3000 stall convertor for a car I was building for $120(some joe bob company) at Carlise. The car went 12.8's at 110. With all things the same except a different brand of convertor that cost $350(and well known name) the car went 12.2 at 116. Same stall speed. The latter was just more efficient. A well built and designed convertor will improve every aspect of the car as far as performance go's.

This is a very good discussion. I have just finished putting the motor back into the 92 GS Auto. It has a 6 bolt GS-t Block, 190 lph, 450cc inj., EPROM ECU, big 16g, SAFC, BR 2.5 downpipe, full 2.5 catback system, UPIC, Ported 2g Manifold, and a rebuilt Auto Tranny with the Alto End clutch kit and the Shift Kit. Sunday at 1am we took the car out for the frist time in 2 years, it runs strong, well the motor sounds great, but when I start driving it feels like I have to give the car 75% of throttle before it starts moving, also when we came to a hill I had to floor it just to get it up the hill. My question is, Should I have changed the TCU? Should I get a better TC? And does anyone know the shift characteristics of the 1g? And yes I will be checking for boost leaks