2G Boost gauge on dash how do I connect it

[Dirtbike29]

I want to reinstall the boost gauge on the dash I was wondering how do I connect the vacuum line for it.
Can I connect vacuum lines to the intake nipple on the right of the picture or does it have to be connected on waste gate side.

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[Dusty Landrum]

That is actually your oem boost controller. The boost gauge is on the firewall. Here is what everything is.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-and-removal-for-1g-and-2g.198327/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

 

[pauleyman]

That is actually your oem boost controller. The boost gauge is on the firewall. Here is what everything is.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-and-removal-for-1g-and-2g.198327/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

Hold up. Boost gauge on firewall? There is no boost sensor.

 

[pauleyman]

I want to reinstall the boost gauge on the dash I was wondering how do I connect the vacuum line for it.
Can I connect vacuum lines to the intake nipple on the right of the picture or does it have to be connected on waste gate side.

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You never disconnect anything. Boost gauge doesn't have a sensor. It's just an ECU calculation. It's worthless for measuring boost. What are you trying to do?

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Hold up. Boost gauge on firewall? There is no boost sensor.

Yeah the sensor on the firewall that taps into the FPR that gives the dash boost gauge its reading ?

 

[pauleyman]

Yeah the sensor on the firewall that taps into the FPR that gives the dash boost gauge its reading ?

Can't tell if you're serious.

 

[curt-s]

Op, that's the factory boost control solenoid.
As Paul says, there's no factory boost sensor and the instrument cluster gauge is just an ecu approximation of.. some kind of airflow. Lb/min based on the t25 airflow at rpm and mass airflow readings, I would guess are two variables. It's basically as useful as a narrowband o2 gauge.

There's many guides on how to ensure your BCS is plumbed correctly. If you're planning on using ecmlink to control boost, read their guides closely.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Can't tell if you're serious.

What? I can’t tune with that sensor and the narrowband glow shift gauge I have? Been doing it all wrong I guess.

 

[pauleyman]

What? I can’t tune with that sensor and the narrowband glow shift gauge I have? Been doing it all wrong I guess.

Best laugh I've had in awhile.

 

[Dirtbike29]

You never disconnect anything. Boost gauge doesn't have a sensor. It's just an ECU calculation. It's worthless for measuring boost. What are you trying to do?

Can I just unplug that shit or should I just keep it in the car I was wondering if it was connected to the dash turbo gauge I have 3 port installed I didn’t disconnect anything in this car I’ve put it back together only so I know common shit about what should go where but not what controls what in this vehicle and I have 97 year and every thing online has disappeared about it and engine 3 in this car 2 7 bolt now a 6

Can I just unplug that shit or should I just keep it in the car I was wondering if it was connected to the dash turbo gauge I have 3 port installed I didn’t disconnect anything in this car I’ve put it back together only so I know common shit about what should go where but not what controls what in this vehicle and I have 97 year and every thing online has disappeared about it and engine 3 in this car 2 7 bolt now a 6

I’ve spent many hours reading the forums I know what everything is called.
traced all the wire in the whole car repaired many of the wires and plugs but idk how to make it normal.
it’s running good I only have one code for leak detection pump but I can’t find if I even have one.
I’m getting a tune for it as it’s running on the old tune before were installed and I’ve changed many things

 

[curt-s]

If you have a three port then you'd already be using the wiring for that BCS anyway and it would effectively be unplugged due to cut wires. Unless you just tapped the wires to the BCS and are now running both boost controller devices off the same ECU circuit, which you do NOT want to do.

So if your 3 port is solely on the BCS wiring, it doesn't matter if you leave the old one plugged in or not because it would no longer be physically wired to the ecu.

That BCS has nothing to do with the fake gauge on the dash

 

[steve]

Can I just unplug that shit or should I just keep it in the car

No, the 2G ECU wants to see the various factory control solenoids responding or it will throw a fault code. By keeping them plugged in you fool the ECU and you avoid collecting water in the connectors which can short out the drivers on the ECU board.

 

[curt-s]

No, the 2G ECU wants to see the various factory control solenoids responding or it will throw a fault code. By keeping them plugged in you fool the ECU and you avoid collecting water in the connectors which can short out the drivers on the ECU board.

It was said OP has a 3 port but I have no idea if it's been spliced into the wiring or not. definitely don't want both running off the same wiring at the same time. Resistance down but current up.

 

[Justin DuBois]

It is too bad that there isn't a custom output option here in ECMLink that would allow you to map one ECU parameter to a voltage range.

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[Dirtbike29]

If you have a three port then you'd already be using the wiring for that BCS anyway and it would effectively be unplugged due to cut wires. Unless you just tapped the wires to the BCS and are now running both boost controller devices off the same ECU circuit, which you do NOT want to do.

So if your 3 port is solely on the BCS wiring, it doesn't matter if you leave the old one plugged in or not because it would no longer be physically wired to the ecu.

That BCS has nothing to do with the fake gauge on the dash

It was said OP has a 3 port but I have no idea if it's been spliced into the wiring or not. definitely don't want both running off the same wiring at the same time. Resistance down but current up.Neither do i I believe it’s working properly tho it’s

Op, that's the factory boost control solenoid.
As Paul says, there's no factory boost sensor and the instrument cluster gauge is just an ecu approximation of.. some kind of airflow. Lb/min based on the t25 airflow at rpm and mass airflow readings, I would guess are two variables. It's basically as useful as a narrowband o2 gauge.

There's many guides on how to ensure your BCS is plumbed correctly. If you're planning on using ecmlink to control boost, read their guides closely.

If you have a three port then you'd already be using the wiring for that BCS anyway and it would effectively be unplugged due to cut wires. Unless you just tapped the wires to the BCS and are now running both boost controller devices off the same ECU circuit, which you do NOT want to do.

So if your 3 port is solely on the BCS wiring, it doesn't matter if you leave the old one plugged in or not because it would no longer be physically wired to the ecu.

That BCS has nothing to do with the fake gauge on the dash

How would I know if it’s done wrong? Is there a wire I can cut at the sensor just to make sure it’s done correctly? I think it has been done correctly but I didn’t cut any wires or wire in the 3 port controller, it was already done and it seems to work fine.

I didn’t have any codes when I hooked up all the vacuum lines and it ran fine.