Do you have a check engine light?
You said you looked for boost leaks, but did you perform a proper boost leak test? Visual inspection is one thing, but many leaks cannot be easily detected by sight alone. Also make sure you don't have any open lines between the MAF and turbo.
How well has maintenance been upkept on it? Things like spark plugs/wires, throttle body cleaning, timing belt, etc?

I see you had an issue with fuel pressure in a previous thread. Did that get resolved and have you verified proper fuel pressure now?

dwb said:

Do you have a check engine light?
You said you looked for boost leaks, but did you perform a proper boost leak test? Visual inspection is one thing, but many leaks cannot be easily detected by sight alone. Also make sure you don't have any open lines between the MAF and turbo.
How well has maintenance been upkept on it? Things like spark plugs/wires, throttle body cleaning, timing belt, etc?

I see you had an issue with fuel pressure in a previous thread. Did that get resolved and have you verified proper fuel pressure now?

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ok so long story short car sat for 3-4 years in my stepdads driveway after it quit running while idling. we fix the issue by replacing the ecu now it runs and "drive's". but now has the current since. any previous work is unknow but the car is all stock and was in good condition before. i just used soapy water on charge pipe's, has new and gaped sparkplugs and new wires. i don't know if the throttle body was ever cleaned.

In that case you really need to consider replacing the timing belt sooner than later. At least inspect it and verify correct mechanical timing.

Ki263737 said:

ok so long story short car sat for 3-4 years in my stepdads driveway after it quit running while idling. we fix the issue by replacing the ecu now it runs and "drive's". but now has the current since. any previous work is unknow but the car is all stock and was in good condition before. i just used soapy water on charge pipe's, has new and gaped sparkplugs and new wires. i don't know if the throttle body was ever cleaned.

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You should check the idle control motor. That may be what killed the other ecu and could be killing this one.

ill look into both the idle control motor and the timing. i did forget to mention that on my test drive it did half a pull and started running rich

I once had an issue of my car running, but not revving past about 2500RPM. Turned out that I forgot to plug in the TPS.

As others have suggested, always check mechanical timing and ignition timing to ensure they are at base settings.

Took awhile but started working on the car again and noticed that my dome lights don't work anymore. Could that mean that I'm not getting backup power to my ECU through pin 103?

No lets try a new thread for the dome light issue.

Ok was curious as I've head that it could cause some issues just didn't knownif it could cause mine other things I have don't to the car is plugs, plug wires, coil pack, power transiter, fuel rail, fuel regulator, injectors, and am going to change the fuel regulator solenoid this weekend and look at voltages and other stuff with my multi meter

Also took this video of my giving it a little throttle maybe 25-50% range don't know if it will help my case at all, also timing isn't an issue I took it around the block again and it did make it thought the rpm range but was sputtering the whole way and is i give it just some slight gas is will cruse fine but any more it will start to sputter and not wanna accelerate. Sorry for the inconsistencie of my posting just been getting busy here and there with other things right now but am wanting to have the car on the road this summer

Do you have a mechanical boost gauge and does it show similar boost as the OEM gauge?
Does your CEL light up for 5 secs when you turn the ignition on?

dwb said:

Do you have a mechanical boost gauge and does it show similar boost as the OEM gauge?
Does your CEL light up for 5 secs when you turn the ignition on?

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No aftermarket boost gauge and CEL comes on for 5 secs then stays off I also know for a fact its not the ECU since all the parts I have replaced have been from a previously running car (until I pulled them) including the ECU.

The boost gauge pegging with seemingly no boost at all leads me to believe an issue with the MAF or some other electrical issue.

The last ECU failed and wouldn't trigger the MPI relay to send spark but with a new one it now has yellow looking spark could that also be an possible issue

And just realized i haven't said it is vary much over fuelling (black smoke from exhaust)

Ki263737 said:

And just realized i haven't said it is vary much over fuelling (black smoke from exhaust)

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It thinks it's flowing more air than it actually is so it's over fueling. Which would also explain why the boost gauge is wacky.

Unless you are running larger than stock injectors.

Are we sure this isn't an aftermarket ECU like ECMLink or some kind of chip? That just doesn't seem like how a stock boost gauge acts. If it's all 100% OEM though, I agree with DWB. MAF related for sure. It sounds like anti-lag almost.

So I have sourced the ECU off eBay and confirmed the ECU numbers matched the ones on my old ECU. After I got the new ECU I opened the case and inspected the ECU. The ECU looked fine and was a non EPROM ECU and used it (put the only photo I had of it)

The injectors came out of an stock 1990 Laser RS Turbo from a buddy of mine same as rail and regulator.

Started just checking all the boost pipes and such and this line popped out without any resistance could this be an issue

Did some wire testing and got 12volt on the room Fuse but not to my ECU on pin 103.

Ki263737 said:

Also took this video of my giving it a little throttle maybe 25-50% range don't know if it will help my case at all, also timing isn't an issue I took it around the block again and it did make it thought the rpm range but was sputtering the whole way and is i give it just some slight gas is will cruse fine but any more it will start to sputter and not wanna accelerate. Sorry for the inconsistencie of my posting just been getting busy here and there with other things right now but am wanting to have the car on the road this summer

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First thing came up to mind by watching this video is you may have the timing too retarded or something is wrong with the CAS.
I would check for the base ignition timing with a timing light, and also make sure that the CAS is not installed 180 degree off and the valve timing is set properly, before spending money.

DSMPT said:

First thing came up to mind by watching this video is you may have the timing too retarded or something is wrong with the CAS.
I would check for the base ignition timing with a timing light, and also make sure that the CAS is not installed 180 degree off and the valve timing is set properly, before spending money.

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I'm not spending money on parts between me and my buddy we have 6-7 1g dsm's now that most my parts have been from

I don't think it's timing due to the fact the car has done nothing but sit since the last ECU died or the last issue could just have been this current one with pin 103 and the last one won't turn on due to there being no backup power to the ECU at all.

And the boost gauge is not all wacky now that I changed the MAF but still struggles to build full boost.

Ki263737 said:

I'm not pending money on parts between me and my buddy we have 6-7 1g dsm's now that most my parts have been from

I don't think it timing due to the fact the car has done nothing but sit since the last ecu died or the last issue could just have been this current one with pin 103 and the last one won't turn on due to there being no backup power to the ecu at all
And the boost gage is not a wacky now that I changed the maf but still struggles to build full boost

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Guesstimation is one of the biggest enemies to diagnosis. You never know until physically check. Did you recently make sure about the base timing and CAS by yourself? There is no reason not to do, it's always necessary to make the car stable even it's not related to the issue directly. And it's free and takes only a few min. If it's not related, then that's good. You kill some of possibilities. Just my opinion though.

Think about it this way. I’ll do what people tell to me even if I’m sure they’re wrong, just so I can rub their faces in it when it doesn’t work. Classily rub their faces in it, not aggressively.

And if it actually is a problem and fixes something, then hey. Win win.

CrackedDSM said:

Think about it this way. I’ll do what people tell to me even if I’m sure they’re wrong, just so I can rub their faces in it when it doesn’t work. Classily rub their faces in it, not aggressively.

And if it actually is a problem and fixes something, then hey. Win win.

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fair point I don't have a timing light so rn so i can check the CAS tomorrow but that bring me to my next question how can i tell if it is on 180 degrees off?

still gonna take the dash out fix the wire for the pin and replace my heater core at the same time while I'm in there

Anybody know what these 4 wires are there is a r/g, b/y, w/b, b/r i don't know what they are for but wanna make sure they are not important wires came from they radio harness or around that area

also checked timing and the CAS and they are fine