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1G Transmission Questions

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Ericisanoob

Probationary Member
13
0
Sep 11, 2017
Enumclaw, Washington
Recently acquired a 1G talon chassis with a 2G 2.0 turbo motor swapped into it. Now i am having clutch issues with it not disengaging fully to allow me to shift into gears smoothly. the VIN number says the car is a 1.8 naturally aspirated and the transmission matches that VIN code. so id like to know if there is a difference between the 1.8 transmission. and the 2.0 transmission so I don't waste money on another clutch. Or what can i do to make this transmission work with this engine. This is the VIN code if you need more information 4E3CF54FXPE098659
 
how important is the bolt that goes the opposite way into the transmission. would it cause enough problems to let the clutch not disengage fully? i had a buddy push on the clutch pedal while i looked at where the bolt goes and the transmission actually flexes out a bit.
 
The rear bolt is important. Just like the alignment dowels. Come on man.

MD706012
M8x1.25x60mm partially threaded, with assembled washer and lock washer.

Also, FYI, your transmission code is for a 92-94 FWD Turbo Transmission, so you should be using a 6-bolt FWD turbo flywheel, and then a standard 4G63 turbo FWD/AWD clutch assembly.

I really hope you have the bellhousing dowels in the bellhousing because they weren't shown in the picture of your engine block and starter plate.

You need all 4 mounting bolts attaching the transmission to the engine block. There are only 4 (3x M10 in the front, and 1x M8 in the back), if you are missing the rear bolt, you will have clutch disengagement issues as well you will be cracking your bellhousing in short order and having more issues than just a dragging clutch.

For your reference, please refer to below for the proper bellhousing bolts for your application.
1G Bellhousing bolts:
(M10 front lower bolt) MF140471 - M10x1.25x65mm
(top M10 bolt, towards front) MD740892 - M10x1.25x43mm
(top M10 bolt, towards rear) MF140266 - M10x1.25x40mm
(rear M8 bolt) MD706012 - M8x1.25x60mm
 
Last edited:
Yes, that bolt is very important. The dreaded MD706012 M8x1.25x60mm has been dubbed "the crankwalk bolt" by Jafro. One theory is that the lack of a pilot bearing saves on friction and has several other benefits which help make our engines faster, but at the cost of making it all the more critical to keep the power transfer components very tightly aligned. Whatever the reason, it's a bolt that you need. Here's an old thread on the topic: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/jafros-crankwalked-7-bolt-1080-hd-merry-x-mas.422712/

The video referenced at the start of the above thread shows the teardown, and here's a link to Jafro's follow-up video which talks specifically about the importance of the MD706012. Skip to the 12-minute mark if you just want a summary, but the entire video is well worth watching by anyone who has a 7-bolt 4G63 engine:
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Back again. Car drives now. after a few weeks of driving car started running super rough. like on 3 cylinders rough. doesn't allow me to rev past 4500 rpm. shop told me i had a bad knock sensor but i don't know what the symptoms are for a bad knock sensor. read up a bit on the MAF being bad and some other things to check like a boost leak. i know all spark plugs fire. not sure about injectors. when i do start it up there is a crap ton of blue smoke coming from the exhaust. could maybe my ecu be doing this? the first time it happened i took off the negative battery cable for a while to try and reset anything. if that's how it works. and it ran perfectly fine for about 70 miles. then the next morning it ran super rough around 3-400 rpm and wont stay running unless i have my foot hitting the gas pedal. probably a forum out there for this. figured id ask on one i already started
 
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