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1G Transmission Questions

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Ericisanoob

Probationary Member
13
0
Sep 11, 2017
Enumclaw, Washington
Recently acquired a 1G talon chassis with a 2G 2.0 turbo motor swapped into it. Now i am having clutch issues with it not disengaging fully to allow me to shift into gears smoothly. the VIN number says the car is a 1.8 naturally aspirated and the transmission matches that VIN code. so id like to know if there is a difference between the 1.8 transmission. and the 2.0 transmission so I don't waste money on another clutch. Or what can i do to make this transmission work with this engine. This is the VIN code if you need more information 4E3CF54FXPE098659
 
Totally different units. Different flywheel. Clutch etc. Are you sure it's a 2g motor? 2g blocks have no provision for front or rear motor mounts.
Trans will bolt up but it's not optimal.
 
How do i tell what engine i have? obviously new to these cars and this is just what i got told when i purchased the vehicle. it may be a 1G with a turbo on it. said it has built internals on block. heads and rods that's about it. just trying to learn what i have in the vehicle. it is the 6 bolt flywheel and when i put on the clutch that the guy i bought it from purchased i couldn't tighten my starter all the way or it wouldn't engage the flywheel to actually start the vehicle
 
6 bolt isn't enough info. Was the flywheel flat? 6 bolt will also necessitate it's a 1g engine. Find the vin stanp on the block. Up front close to water pump If I recall
 
flywheel was not flat to my knowledge. will get vin stamp tomorrow morning and to see if flywheel is what i think it is. had this car for a while now and i really just want to drive it
 
You need to verify all the model stamps. Google the vin/stamp locations. You're giving conflicting info. 1.8 trans can't have a stepped flywheel. It won't fit. Post all the vins you find, trans code and engine stamp. Pics might help also.

I just looked up that vin. It's a 93 turbo vin. Go look again. Sounds like you just need some clutch adjustment
 
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Engine vin is on the transmission side of the block just above where the bellhousing would bolt up. It sounds like someone used the wrong transmission plate on the car, if its the 1.8 transmission, it needs the 1.8 transmission plate.
 
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Hopefully these pictures work. not sure if that is the transmission code or not in case you cannot read it, it's KF5M332SPQV OX9855. could not find engine vin in the location above where bell housing is bolted onto but i did include a picture of the engine from above and where the transmission bolts to.

does look like its a 1g and not a 2g engine. guy i bought it from doesn't know anything apparently
 

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okay so nothing wrong? i just put in the clutch like an idiot then? because i adjusted the rod like it said in videos and talking with people no luck. and is there a clutch that you would recommend i should buy? makes little over 400 WHP when it did drive
 
What all did you replace? There are many reasons a clutch won't disengage. Hydraulics. Pedal. Adjustment. Flywheel disc. Wrong slave. worn components. All the stuff must be right.
 
guy i bought it from put in a new master cylinder, i bought a new slave and installed it with an extended rod. Flywheel and clutch were brand new but i looked up the part number and i want to go with something better built. my guess is hydraulics. Reason, because i had to actually buy a good vacuum pump to bleed the system because pedal bleeding did nothing at all. pedal felt like air and barely moved the slave at all. i heard that aftermarket master cylinders are junk and you should just get a rebuild kit for the OEM but i no longer have an oem master.
 
already shimmed the pivot ball about 1/4 inch i would say i was able to get it into 2nd gear but every other gear grinds when you tried. maybe i just needed another 1/8 of and inch to push but cars all ripped apart now. waiting for a new clutch
 
1/4 inch is too much. You need to find the real problem. Pedal assembly is very common to be bad. Also make sure you have the right slave. There are two different diameter pistons available. New clutch? Make sure you know the flywheel step height for that clutch and have the flywheel machined for it. Do not leave the machine shop until they show you the measurement with a depth mic. Do not use a caliper to measure depth. Cant remember if fwd has it but I think it does, make aure the bolt on the backside of the bellhousing is present. Its the only trans mount bolt that goes in from the opposite side. Finally if any other componentbis worn replace it. Fork, ball, master, slave, etc. And get rid of that extended slave rod. They are a band aid and do not fix a problem without creating another.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-basic-101-a-clutch-basics-thread-for-everybody.459908/
 
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Lol. The 1g clutch issues to be resolved, like Pauleymann is saying everything needs to be perfect. I know this is very true as I just dealt with it and had a 1g awd that had massive drag/disengagement issues.

-check the pedal assembly, press the clutch and let it return, grab the pedal and try to pull it up further. If it DOES move up assembly needs to be rebuilt or your losing throw.

-double and triple check your not leaking from either master or slave. Them being new isn’t good enough, I had a new MC that leaked right out of the box.
 
Pedal does pull back quite a ways id say like half an inch. what would i need to buy to replace all of that. cant check for leaks since transmission is out of the car right now. i do not trust this mc though and could you possibly link where i could find those different sized slave cylinders? and a quick clarifying question. what do you mean by stepped clutch i'm a bit confused on that. wouldn't any 6 bolt flywheel be the right one?
 
Pedal does pull back quite a ways id say like half an inch. what would i need to buy to replace all of that. cant check for leaks since transmission is out of the car right now. i do not trust this mc though and could you possibly link where i could find those different sized slave cylinders? and a quick clarifying question. what do you mean by stepped clutch i'm a bit confused on that. wouldn't any 6 bolt flywheel be the right one?
Yup, you need to rebuild your pedal or weld it. That's likely most of your problem. The different size slave is turbo to nt if I recall. Do not trust the part store. I cant remember which but I think a green piston is 13/16 dia and for an nt car. Red piston is 3/4 for turbo cars. Awd is different casting altogether. Wanna guess what happens with the wrong size piston? Stepped clutch refers to the flywheel not being flat, its stepped. This step height is critical and if different for different brands/models of clutch. Thst being said no you shound not just bolt in any new flywheel. Even new you must measure and machine the proper step.

This is also why I buy oem parts.
 
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You can buy oem slave and masters cylinders, spendy but piece of mind.

Extremepsi has them
Jnztuning and so on.
 
yeah was looking at oem parts spendy but i heard nothing is better than oem gonna do mc slave and get a new line because mines kinda junky and looks about ready to break in some spots
 
can anyone also help with the finding of the bushing kit for the pedal assembly. i am not familiar with dsm websites and where to go
 
Back again. Got all the right parts. OEM master and slave. with a new line. installed parts and began bleeding the clutch it was late at night the first night so we couldn't start the car because its to loud. so we put it in gear not on and pushed the clutch pedal and was able to move the car freely. The next morning we tried and it wouldn't budge. so we vacuum bled it again and quickly started the car and it went into gear fine but the longer you held on the pedal the clutch started grabbing. Pretty soon it wasnt able to go into any gear. Now from what was said previously i have the right flywheel this time because my starter actually engages fully bolted on. and the specs were checked in a shop. Brand new master and slave from factory and it just seems that nothing is working for me. it seems to me that one of the 2 or both are loosing pressure. i see no leakage from both but i know that they dont always leak fluid when they are bad. Help with this would be nice
 
Back again. Got all the right parts. OEM master and slave. with a new line. installed parts and began bleeding the clutch it was late at night the first night so we couldn't start the car because its to loud. so we put it in gear not on and pushed the clutch pedal and was able to move the car freely. The next morning we tried and it wouldn't budge. so we vacuum bled it again and quickly started the car and it went into gear fine but the longer you held on the pedal the clutch started grabbing. Pretty soon it wasnt able to go into any gear. Now from what was said previously i have the right flywheel this time because my starter actually engages fully bolted on. and the specs were checked in a shop. Brand new master and slave from factory and it just seems that nothing is working for me. it seems to me that one of the 2 or both are loosing pressure. i see no leakage from both but i know that they dont always leak fluid when they are bad. Help with this would be nice
Open the slave bleeder and push in the piston. What you're describing you still have air.
 
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