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im talkingh in conunction with other internal mods as well, not by themselves. if you do just the rods and pistons it wont make a difference reallyu.

combine grodes, with a butchered crank, aftermarket aluminum pistons, a fidanza flywheel,udp youll rev over really goddamn fast. all mtor makes more power up top so itll be more benificial to get the motor into its power range faster to make it get that power to the ground quicker


i totally understand what your sayin though. its not a huge weight difference at all, but in conjunction with other mods just like anythign else itll packl a punch
 
You keep saying the engine will rev faster because it weighs less. Yes, revving in neutral it will make a big difference as it only has to spin itself. It will also decelerate a lot faster. But under the load of the transmission, axles, and wheels, not to mention having to push a whole car, the weight of the engine matters much less than you seem to think.
 
i understand that much but itll make a slight difference with a load. with the flywheel itll make enough of a difference with a load on the motor to help make a little more power an make it get up there faster. it would be better then leaving it stock.

yea know matter what its still pushin a 3200lb car but every little bit helps.


you dotn knwo the stock gvw of a n/t do ya. i imagine itll be a little bit lighter then a turbo model anyway
 
na90dsm said:
you dotn knwo the stock gvw of a n/t do ya. i imagine itll be a little bit lighter then a turbo model anyway
The turbo FWD model is about 80 pounds heavier than the nonturbo 2.0
 
http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/answers-specifications.htm

there is all sort of specs on here.

stock eclipse gs 2.0L n/t weighs 2712. thats not to damn bad at all awd weighs liek 3100 it says.



ok now i went on there and wa sstill looking into a fuel setup to run 450cc injectors, i looked at that link and it says that we have a higher fuel pressure then the turbo models. the turbo uses the low impedence injectors while the n/a uses the high impedence. you have to wire in the resistor acl for the injectors when using turbo injectors in a n/t but my question is this. will we have to lower our fuel pressure if we do this. our fuel rail pressure is a little higher

stock fuel pressure at the rail on a turbo is 27 / 36-38 psi . 27 at the rail and 36-38 at wot.

heres the n/a specs 37 / 47-53 psi. we have the same at curb idle but way higher at wot. can this be used to avoind having to upgrade the fuel pump. or will we have to lower our pressure to meat the 380 and 450cc specs
 
Ok here it is...i'm 17 and i just bought m first car from the original owner. I got a 91 eclipse GS 1.8L 5 spd. It was barely driven and has 64k miles on it. Whenever i've asked for performance mods suggestions on various forums...everyone tells me that the 1.8 is pointless and to get a gsx or something else, but i dont think i want to...now im not looking for a 9 second car but i def wouldnt mind a gain in HP...i'd like to prove people wrong about the 1.8 but i dont know what to do...there is a lot of info on this thread but i only know what CAN be done to cars...not HOW to do it as im only 17 and jus got my car not even a month ago....if some of u guys could help me out it'd be greatly appreciated... thanks 4 ur time...o and also....the clutch(its the original) is on its way out...i was thinking of going with an ACT....any suggestions???
 
act is a great clutch, i will be using one im my car.


as for mods for the 1.8L, i found a intake for that motor, i havent seen headers for it. other then that there really isnt many mods otu there for the motor. youd have to fab a lot yourself.

i mean you can get pistons made,rods made,use the stock crank. the head can be worked and springs and stuff can prolly be found. ive seen spark plug wires and stuff like that for em, i havent seen pulleys,tb,intake manifolds,cams and stuff to the effect.

crower can custom make any cam as long as you have specs,race eng can make pistons,je can make pistons,eagle and carillo can make rods, basically you will be a pioneer on a path nobody has gone down.
 
on the ACT site i found some clutch kits for my car. http://www.advancedclutch.com/Produ...ice=64&thirdChoice=150&Submit.x=21&Submit.y=6

will these all work for my car (91 eclipse gs 1.8L 5 spd) ?? Are these kits entire clutch replacements? like i said my clutch is on its way out and i would like to go with ACT because i wanna be able to drive pretty hard on it...any suggestions??

as for mods...ive seen unorthodox underdrive pulleys, megan racing cat-back exhaust, a bunch of suspension mods, etc i dunno i know the 1.8 isnt the greatest but its reliable and im not lookin to make my car a monster but id like to be able to take a civic...LOL :p
 
1.8 is still the liek abortion of mitsu, well not abortion but nobody really felt the need to do major stuff to it. if it can rev high it may be able to be a badass motor with some serious compression and methanol, but as a street onster it would be also good imo to keep weight down on the car.
 
From what Ive heard, you cannot use turbo injectors on a n/t. They work on low resistence as opposed to n/t which use high resistence (or vice versa). Youd have to get a transtor pack or something (its mounted on the firewall on turbos), and a turbo ecu. Am I wrong in this? I was thikin bout gettin turbo injectors till I read up on it. And if u get the turbo ecu, aint it gonna think that its not getting enuf air into the motor, and screwin up everything? Any help it appreciated.
 
I am interested in seeing how some turbo FI's will work with the non-turbo, since I'm building a stroker. If someone has information I would love to get it. Also, someone said a GST manual trans will bolt up to the non-turbo block. Seem like it would work. Is there a specific code GST trans that is the strongest? I would love getting rid of my F5M22 for something stronger.
 
Well I just found out that there is only a F5M33, stupid me. Anyway, has someone already tried putting a F5M33(1G,2G GST Manual Trans) in a 1G 2.0 non-turbo. From my F5M22 rebuild, the only differences I saw in the F5M22 in comparison to the F5M33 was bearings. The F5M33 has ball bearings only, and the F5M22 uses 2 ball bearings(1 sealed, both are on the input shaft), and on the interm. and output shafts the F5M22 uses tappered roller bearings. Even tappered roller bearings on the diff. I'll look at my .pdf manuals again and compare tonight.
 
trans works, im putting a gst tranny in my gs. i have a fidanza aluminum flywheel, act2600 and a 6 puck dosc goin in. the trans has same bolt pattern on the bell housing but it has greater clearence in the bell itself for the bigger clutch. it bells otu more then the n/t does. this is why you need to chnge flywheels, so the starter grabs the flywheel correctly.


as for turbo injectors, you need the injector resistor packl off any turbo car andf have to splice the wires into the injector harness on the n/t car. this will allow the use of auto turbo 390cc injectors or turbo manual 450cc blue top injectors. yea it works mavisky did this a logn time ago and there are a few write ups abotu it floating around onhere.


use search button, that subject has been talked about, same with the trans question
 
So the plate in between the trans and block needs on from a turbo, so the holes for the starter match up. Kewl. I'll have to see about finding a turbo in the junkyard to rob the FI stuff.
 
the plate i beleive is the same as they have the same botl pattern for the bell housing, so the plate will not have to be touched. however the flywheel,clutch,and trans will need to be changed.


now that i think abotu it the starter should bolt in the same spot since the housing bolt pattern is the same, just the bell in the housing itself adds for a biogger clutch to fit underneath the housing.


ill post some pics within a few weeks. im havign my tranny put in soon so when it gets put in ill let you know
 
I just bought a 93 eagle talon es for 1800 with only 108000 miles and am planning on doing a header back exhaust custom cold air intake prolly one of the ones suggested on the vfaq, an underdrive pulley, and an intake cam off a turbo, hopefully ill be able to get 38 more hp at the crank, for 400-500 dollars. I'm debating on buying a race cat or just going straight pipe. Would anyone know of a good next semicheap step from there ? Also what size would be good for an exhaust to match up with this 2.5 or 3 inch?
 
2.5 is perfect for a 1g n/t imo

run a punishment header,2.5 inch gst downpipe, and a 2.5 gst exhaust. that shoudl get you some good gains and flow. after that id run a test piep definately. i had one and my car had soem major torque with my setup.

other then that you can do sparl plug wires,cam gears,pulleys, but after that your either doin head work or internals from there.

i have a set of turbo cams and a punishment header for sale dirt cheap. lemme know
 
Sorry to bring up the injectors again, but... would it be necessary to install larger fuel injectors if I'm am building a non-turbo stroker. Right now I would be using the non-turbo injectors. The stroker pistons take the compression from the 9 to 1 stock to 8.8 to 1(Wiseco). So I'm just a little stumped on if running the normal injectors.
 
youll lose power with a lower compression. you have to up it to at least 10:0:1 or more to start making ore power. the stock compression will only take you so far then you have to raise it to make more.

fuel injectors for a stroker with cams and a built head will need 390cc injectors and a stock gst fuel pump at most. you wont need that much fuel. not as much as a upgraded turbo car would.

390cc injectors will supply a lot of mods on a n/a car. youd need full exhaust,header,intake,ignition,cams,head work,10:0:1 compression at least. a stroker setup will net good tq in n/a form
 
talked to another person today who had a 1g n/a who ran a 264 hks intake cam and stock exhaust who was also running 390cc injectors. said it made a huge difference and was good for a butt dyno;
 
na90dsm said:
talked to another person today who had a 1g n/a who ran a 264 hks intake cam and stock exhaust who was also running 390cc injectors. said it made a huge difference and was good for a butt dyno;

Did he need to have a Fuel Computer?
 
with those injectors a safc would help. yes he had oen but i didnt get the specs on how he tuned em in. when runnign those injectors you have a lot more fuel then stock, the n/t fuel pressure regulator is way higher pressure then the stock turbo one. i beleive the stock turbo regulator is set at 34psi and the n.t is soemwhere abotu 40. im gonan post a link as soon as i get the site adress again to the specs. im waiting on a response. i got rid of the link which i shouldnt have done but ill post em up asap


when you run the larger injectors on a n/t youll need all the basic botl ons to get full advantage of the increase in fuel. pulleys,intake, full exhaust, ignition basics are a must. then drop the cams in with some adj cam gears an you will have some torque. my old car had a ported pacesetter header, pacesetter cat back, test pipe, taylor wires, injen intake, k&n filter and i had turbo guys tell me i had butt loads of torque.

i didnt get as far as cams and my tranny spit out. best thing imho if your serious abotu all motor would be to swap in a turbo tranny from a gst. im doin a write up on it as soon as i get my damn car down here. i have all parts for it i just need to do it. ill post a link when i do it. the syncors are stronger as well as the gear sets. the n/t tranny is very weak and doesnt take much to kill it. specially if you have a lead foot
 
Here's am Idea, .... Ford 351m 400, it's naturally aspirated and it's got plenty of power, but where are we gonna find a shoehorn that big? LOL :thumb:
 
i would never bild anythign ford. granted the 351m 400 is a good motor(both of em) id rather go with a 4 botl 350 or a 454. if i was to go ford id go with 2 different motors. a cleavlend, or a 460. both rock
 
be989 said:
Did he need to have a Fuel Computer?



ok i talked to defiant and he was awesome anough to just give me the link to the site. i couldnt remember where to find it. had a brain fart. here are the spec differences between the turbo fuel pressure and the n/t fuel pressure.

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/Frameless/answers-specifications.htm#Stockfuelpressure


now to get the turbo 450cc fuel injectors to work properly you will have to basically make a turbo fuel setup. if you ruin the injectors with the n/t regulator they will nto work properly. so you can grab a turbo rail from a parts car easily. then grab the injectors and run a stock tsi fuel pump and your whole fuel setup will be good enough to run any fuel your motor will ever need. i do nto se a n/t motor runnign higher then 450cc injectors.

you can also rewire the fuel pump just like the turbo guys do and benifit the same way. youll also be able to run 390cc injectors with the same fuel setup. im in the process of tweakig a few parts for my n/t motor when i get my car and im gonna see abotu fuel setups in the not do distant future. ill build my n/a motor with bolt ons and cams and such and see what the stock 9:0:1 compression can do. then ill drop my big rod motor in since itll be a while before i finish it.
 
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