The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

The 1g all motor alternative!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

so i got more food for thought.i picked up this import racer mag today and it has this crx in it with a k20a swap with a itb setup. i was readin through it to see what these guys did for power and with stock internals there makin 252whp. no nitrous no bs just motor. only 162ft lbs tq though.

so i did some research on the k20a motor. first off these dudes have to be runnign race gas because its a jdm integra type r motor with 11:5:1 stock compression ratio. it has 86.0 mm bore and strokeand is a 2.0L motor.


now i took those numbers and compared them to my fuel setup and everythign for the 4g63. the 4g63 we have a 85mm bore but a 88mm stroke. right off the bat we have more stroke but lack a little bore size. this can be handles by a good machien shop.


so now if these guys are running that for compression, and that size bottom end which isnt anythign bigger then us stock really, whats to say a 4g63 couldnt run this for power. there pushin 252whp. with less stroke then us.


so my new plans include this when i build this motor. im goin with a 12:0:1 compression (yes i will run race gas) with a .20 overbore on the block, grode rods and a itb setup. crower stage 3 cams and my head design. im guessin we will push a little more power from the 4g63 with this setup. of course this motor will take me a logn time to build as its not gonan be cheap. the itb setup is $2030 alone. then 1k fo rthe head an dyou get my drift.



let me knwo what you guys think. feedback will help alot :thumb:
 
Well you've got my attention, make sure you do regular updates on the project. :thumb:
 
yea i swapped around thoughts for a while. im nto gonna go with groden aluminum rods because one there way expensive and you have to run special bearings and such. a set of eagles will be fine. id rather take that money and sink it into a butchered crank.

the compression im gonna run 12:0:1 to see how much i can make. my gold is as much power as i can make with this engine. i dotn care if i have to run race gas or whatever. by the time im dont with the motor ill turn around and sell the motor for my next one.

the daily driver i will keep with stock compresison and bolt ons, this motor will go ina seprate car. just a chassis.




EDIT:: just heard back from je pistons abotu custom pistons. they said no problem in making them for that motor. compression will be 12:0:1 compression with a .62 head gasket and a .20 overbore. $650 a set with wrist pins and je rings. add $90 for gapless rings. so a set with rings and pins for $650 isnt bad. i love it when a plan comes together
 
Sounds sweet man, 650 isn't bad at all. After you put them in go get a dyno so we can see the results.
 
im still iffy on that compression but ill let everyoen knwo what i end up using and how it works out
 
I'm working on a stroker at the moment. Forged internals, etc... I'm not doing anything with the head due to money. My question is... Can a 6 or 7 bolt TURBO FWD FLYWHEEL/CLUTCH work with a 1G(1992) Manual FWD 2.0L Tranny(F5M22)? I'm wondering if the diameters and number of teeth are the same? I think it will fit in the bell housing. Thanks
 
I've heard many people say a turbo flywheel in a n/t will rub the bell housing preventing the fly wheel from hardly even moving.
 
to swap flywheels ect you need to swap it all. tranny, clutch, and flywheel. youll get a little bit taller gears but add soem power and nitrous youll be a little bit faster then the n/a tranny.

the stock n/t tranny blows and the gst tranny is stronger and imo easier to get a hold of in good shape. im swappign to a gst tranny, fidaza gst flywheel, and act2600 from a gst. it all bolts to the block and crank with no problems.
 
less weight then stock rods, itll rev up faster. shit if i had the money id get grodes
 
na90dsm said:
to swap flywheels ect you need to swap it all. tranny, clutch, and flywheel. youll get a little bit taller gears but add soem power and nitrous youll be a little bit faster then the n/a tranny.

the stock n/t tranny blows and the gst tranny is stronger and imo easier to get a hold of in good shape. im swappign to a gst tranny, fidaza gst flywheel, and act2600 from a gst. it all bolts to the block and crank with no problems.

Are you sure that it is a direct bolt-on? I am surprised that we haven't heard of anyone doing this in the past. Will the turbo gears help in the high end then opposed to the low due to the fact that they are larger? Do you know what each can handle as far as HP? And what year would be the strongest of the 1g gst models? I know that this is a shit load of questions, :rolleyes: but I am intrigued! ;) This actually sounds like a really good idea for n/t owners who want to test the limits of what our cars can do. :thumb:
 
na90dsm said:
less weight then stock rods, itll rev up faster. shit if i had the money id get grodes
I'm sure that money could be used on something much more beneficial.
 
dude your an ass, n/a isnt a turbo motor dude. you need basically no weight internally and externally to make your power benificial. the less weight in the motor the better. yuoull make more power easily with less strain on the internals. the crank will turn ove rbetter

grodes weigh less that crowers by 100 grams i beleive. im gonna run a gst fidanza for less weight. ill gain 15hp from it about.

lighter pulleys help, light pistons help, lightening the crnak helps on all motors.


please stop comenting if you have niothign supportive to say in this thread. this thread is to help peopel into all motor, not to have peopel liek you come in and try to critisiz everythign that is said. if you have nothgin supportive to say then go away. if you do nto stop i will let a mod knwo and have you removed from the thread. :mad:
 
na90dsm said:
grodes weigh less that crowers by 100 grams i beleive. im gonna run a gst fidanza for less weight. ill gain 15hp from it about.
You're dreaming.
na90dsm said:
please stop comenting if you have niothign supportive to say in this thread.
Would being supportive mean to encourage someone to make a mistake? Because that's what you're doing. I think I'm being supportive by trying to sway his decision to a better one. :rolleyes:
na90dsm said:
if you do nto stop i will let a mod knwo and have you removed from the thread. :mad:
I think you would be more likely to be removed as you have done nothing but post incorrect information and make ad hominem attacks.
 
The only thing the mods are going to do is lock this damn thread because it is turning into a flame war, now cool it guys.
 
hkdl said:
The only thing the mods are going to do is lock this damn thread because it is turning into a flame war, now cool it guys.
I'd love to know what rule I broke.
 
which imformation am i leavign that is false. go and look at the grode rod information. youll see it. http://www.ffwdconnection.com/dsm2.htm and im sorry there 155 grams less then crowers.

and everythign else in this thread has been discussed many times. ive been on here for 2 years and i have never had a problem with my n/a 4g63 imformation.


now let it go and lets continue wth this disscusion
 
He just asked why you wanted to get aftermarket rods.

The answer was fine. and then you said:

Originally posted by leakyfaucet
I'm sure that money could be used on something much more beneficial.

You didn't give any reason or alternatives or contribute with your comment.

Then you said

Originally posted by na90dsm
dude your an ass,

This is not acceptable either.

Both of you need to chill out and let this thread contiue.
 
agreed.now i got soem more topic for discussion.

tuning wise what can be doen to the ecu to make it perform better. i havent heard much abotu the e-manage and ive been hearing some bad stuff about the ems so ive descided against that. can a e-prom be used in this situation also can a dsmlink be utilized to gain some tuning advantages.

timign will need to be looked at, throttle position, injector duty cycle, air fuel rations may need to be looked into, i mean a s-afc can be used no doubt but will that and a stock ecu make for enough tuning for a n/t. i think itll be more in depth then this to tune a highly modded n/a motor but i could be mistaken. anyoen got anythought?








edit::: also heres a few flow charts i foudn on the fuel setup i was talkin about. flow specs on stock 1g 4g63 fuel pump vs the walbro 190 and 255.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumpflowrates.htm


shows a bit more indepth on the fuel specs. im gonan run the crower cams ive been talkin about with 390's first, then im gonan try to step up top 450 blue tops
 
L2RTSiAWD said:
You didn't give any reason or alternatives or contribute with your comment.
What I said was a very clear statement. I'm sorry not everyone is as gifted as me, to be able to think for themselves. I didn't really feel like walking him through what hundred other things he could buy that would be much more beneficial to him. I just left it at what I said, an attempt to allow him to be creative and to inspire some research. It's a pity that these things are frowned upon.
 
leakyfaucet said:
What I said was a very clear statement. I'm sorry not everyone is as gifted as me, to be able to think for themselves. I didn't really feel like walking him through what hundred other things he could buy that would be much more beneficial to him. I just left it at what I said, an attempt to allow him to be creative and to inspire some research. It's a pity that these things are frowned upon.

It's not a matter of being able to think for yourself it's a matter of helping people. There's nothing wrong suggesting a couple things, especially when your statement contradicts what he said.

If your not going to help then it's simple don't post.
 
L2RTSiAWD said:
It's not a matter of being able to think for yourself it's a matter of helping people. There's nothing wrong suggesting a couple things, especially when your statement contradicts what he said.

If your not going to help then it's simple don't post.
I was helping him by suggesting that he doesn't buy them. Of course advice doesn't mean anything to someone that won't listen or is too headstrong.
 
i showed you proof and dirrect link to information showing i was correct. if a turbo motor woudl run those to get rid of weight then why wouldnt a n/a motor. and if the advice is correct im the first person that will listen

its not a matter of strength here. the stock rods yes will handle any power a n/a 4g63 can throw at it. they are proven to handle 400whp and keep rolin strong. this is way more power then the n/a motor can wish of putting out without some insane mods, but they are heavy.

id rather run a lighter rod thats a hell of a lot less weight internally in my motor to help the revs get up top quicker where n/a motors make there power then to keep them and have more weight then i could get rid of to help the performance.

on a budget motor yes they will work perfectly and would compliment after market pitsons as long as press pin is made in the piston. but on a motor that will have to rev up quickly and is being made to do just that just because you suggest it doesnt mean that i shoud get it



no hard feelings man and i got kinda out of line with that ass comment, but i have proven why i would buy those rods and now explained my reasons for that decision. now can we please let this conversation progress
 
I'm not questioning whether these expensive rods are lighter. They are. What is in question is how beneficial they are. I'd be willing to bet that you would never notice a difference. They really are NOT that much lighter. And still, the effects of lowering the weight of the assembly are seriously overrated. Don't believe all the hype. If you want to blow a huge deal of money on something that will barely be helpful, then go for it. But then I guess you should also look into purchasing titanium axles and rotors because the regular axles and rotors weigh too much and we all know how beneficial it is to get rid of rotating mass.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top