My fuse box relocation (project log)

[92AWDHX40]

Thanks for the update its been a while looking good with the swain tech coating.

 

[turbosax2]

Thanks for the update its been a while looking good with the swain tech coating.

Thanks, I'm just glad to have the car running again! I have a track weekend coming up on July 2-3 that I need to get ready for.

 

[turbosax2]

Here are some more pictures of the FMIC brackets to show them off.

I made a bracket to hold up the air filter from aluminum and some leftover intercooler tubing. It fits inside the hole at the end of the filter. (I'm slowly getting better at welding aluminum!)

I got my intake pipe plumbed to the catch can. I took this idea from @99gst_racer but with a little twist. I was nervous about putting the nut inside the pipe, so I put it on the outside. I was also nervous about clamping directly down on the 3" pipe since the fitting and nut are large, so I made spacers out of delrin contoured to the pipe's curve. I cut a slit in the fitting like Paul did as well.

I didn't do a complete job, but I did some ducting on the front end. I used some ABS plastic sheet to make panels to block off the side of the radiator. The stock ducting was trimmed to fit on top of the intercooler.

I decided to change out my wastegate springs to a slightly softer setup to more easily control boost. I had to get a bit creative with how to do this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/changing-wastegate-spring-while-on-car.432753/#post-153596663


My Evo pump couldn't keep up with the new turbo, so I installed a DeatschWerks DW200 pump (255 lph). It is as quiet as the stock pump and fit nicely.

I also rewired the pump with a dual voltage setup (low voltage at idle/cruise and full voltage above a setpoint. I did this since I didn't want to install an AFPR. I'm using a Tyco V23232-D0001-X001 as the main fuel pump relay powered by the fuel pump output from the ECU (pin 8), and a Hella H41773001 solid state relay as the voltage-switching relay powered by the FPS output from the ECU (pin 3). The bracket is some aluminum extrusion that I machined to fit the space. The voltage drop is done by two bridge rectifiers from Radio Shack. This was a great suggestion I found on the ECMLink forums.

Note that even on the stock 2g DSM pump my fuel pressure was always around 46psi with the car off. Two BR's are required for my setup.

And finally, I installed ARP Custom Age 625+ head studs.

I hope I'm ready for the event this weekend!

 

[Black95TSIawd]

That dual voltage fuel pump assembly is ingenious.

Car is looking good!

 

[Blurred Talon]

Your modifications never fail to impress me Eric.
Keep it up.

 

[gofer]

Where are the engine bay shots with the CF intake?

 

[turbosax2]

Where are the engine bay shots with the CF intake?

See posts 724 and 725.

 

[turbosax2]

It’s been a long time since my last update. On July 2/3 last year I attended an HPDE at Pitt Race with my brother @snowborder714 and friend with an Evo. We had a great time! The car was overheating since the turbo/FMIC install, however, so I need to address that.

Until I put a few holes in my engine block. Right after the first session, I noticed that my dipstick handle was gone (melted) and my wastegate lines were melting as well. I taped up the dipstick tube to prevent oil from coming out, then replaced the wastegate lines but coated them in foil tape. This temporary fix lasted five more sessions over two days before it finally gave up and the wastegate line melted again. I did try sourcing the necessary parts to swap them to stainless braided lines but no local shops had the parts. So in the end, the engine failure was 100% my fault and preventable. I pushed my luck and lost – lesson learned.

I went back and forth a thousand times whether or not to build a new engine. In the end, I decided that my goals for this car didn’t require a built engine so I sourced a used split-thrust 7 bolt from an a/t 1998 GST Spyder with 60k miles. I thought about doing a mild refresh/build on it at this point, but decided if I dug into it at all I wouldn’t be able to stop myself from wanting a full build. So I settled for giving it the same treatment I did to the original motor: stripped it down so it was just the head/block bolted together, cleaned it all up, painted the block, swapped over the head studs one at a time, replaced all the timing components/consumables, and slapped it all back together with my good parts. I also replaced the valve steam seals with GSC Viton ones for peace of mind. The alternator was sent back to Powermaster for refurbishing since it ingested a TON of oil (fantastic customer service BTW). I had @JusMX141 rebuild the turbo as well.


I did the balance shaft elimination a little different. Rather than spin the bearing in front hole, I made a blockoff plug from aluminum (copied Magnus kit for this). I still used the factory plug in the front case, though, unlike their kit.

The clutch looked good so I just resurfaced it a bit per @twicks69 instructions.

Engine shrapnel put a big hole in the oil pan. Rather than weld a -10 bung for the turbo oil return line to this one I decided to go back to a stock 2g drain tube. Shrapnel also got the radiator, and the oil cooler was contaminated I’m sure. I picked up a cheap used radiator to get the car running and capped off the oil cooler ports on the OFH for now.

My Hondata intake manifold gasket was warped pretty badly when I took it off. It never leaked, but I decided to replace it with a Jay Racing spacer instead. I later found that I have a slight boost leak here, so I need to take it off to put two stock gaskets on with the spacer.

I think one of my issues was the lack of heat shields on the turbo components. I thought the Swaintech coating would do the trick, but it turns out it’s just not good enough for my setup. The coating started doing some weird stuff (see pictures). I asked Swaintech about it and they basically just said if you don’t like how it looks, don’t use it. So I shipped my entire turbo setup to Levi at Turbo Performance Products and he made me some custom lava-type material blankets. The manifold, turbine, and o2 housing all have separate blankets. He did a great job, the price was very reasonable, and the turnaround time was excellent. I hope this does the trick. I also got a Front-line fab dipstick handle to prevent it from melting again.

The engine made its way back in the car in October.

 

[turbosax2]

One of the biggest issues I had was the wastegate lines I used. They worked fine on the street and probably would be fine for drag racing, but just couldn’t take the heat of an HPDE. These got replaced with SS braided lines covered in Techflex Insultherm sleeving rated to 1200F. I replaced the line to the BOV as well since it was the same material.

And shortly after in November the car was running again. I had just enough time left before winter to use up all the E85 and swap it to gas for hibernation.

I’m currently working on some minor changes, so I’ll update again once those are done.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Those blankets are really nice. I like a lot.

 

[boostdawd]

Can you provide some insight on your oil filter housing? Never seen one in that orientation. Looking good!

 

[gofer]

Eric, where did you find that sleeving purchasable in the amounts you needed? I'm only seeing 50' bulk options on their site.

Can you provide some insight on your oil filter housing? Never seen one in that orientation. Looking good!

It's an Evo IX OFH and if you search it's thread the install is in here. I'd do it quick but I'm on my phone.

 

[turbosax2]

Can you provide some insight on your oil filter housing? Never seen one in that orientation. Looking good!

Corey is correct. This thread has all the details:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo-9-ofh-in-2g.393382/

Eric, where did you find that sleeving purchasable in the amounts you needed? I'm only seeing 50' bulk options on their site.

Wirecare. 3/8" is the appropriate size to use on a -4 line with hose ends already on it.
https://www.wirecare.com/category/b...8bk-3-8-black-insultherm-fiberglass-3-ft-cuts

 

[GofaST4life]

Love this build thread. Keep it up.

 

[Black95TSIawd]

No joke, my favorite DSM of all time. Not to take away from some awesome shops with great drag builds, but your car is more up my alley. I envy you.

 

[boostdawd]

Thanks for the info! Awesome build. Lots of hard work and dedication.

 

[gofer]

Thanks for the link, Eric. That's definitely a better alternative to the DEI fire sleeve and looks like it's built for higher temperature too. Have you had a chance to do an temperature logs since you installed the heat blankets that TPP built for your turbo setup? I ask because I picked up a TPP manifold blanket and noticed a big difference in coolant temperature increase/change after installing it. Wondering if you noticed similar results.

Car looks good, when's the next track event you plan on attending?

 

[turbosax2]

Love this build thread. Keep it up.

No joke, my favorite DSM of all time. Not to take away from some awesome shops with great drag builds, but your car is more up my alley. I envy you.

Thanks for the info! Awesome build. Lots of hard work and dedication.

Thanks!

Thanks for the link, Eric. That's definitely a better alternative to the DEI fire sleeve and looks like it's built for higher temperature too. Have you had a chance to do an temperature logs since you installed the heat blankets that TPP built for your turbo setup? I ask because I picked up a TPP manifold blanket and noticed a big difference in coolant temperature increase/change after installing it. Wondering if you noticed similar results.

Car looks good, when's the next track event you plan on attending?

That was the best black sleeving I found. If you need even higher temperature, you could use this:
https://www.techflex.com/prod_sln.asp

Techflex has all kind of cool stuff. Since getting the car running again, I've only put a couple hundred street miles on it before winter came. My oil temperature is higher than usual since I don't have a cooler at the moment, but I didn't notice any change in the coolant temperature. On the street, coolant temperatures have never been an issue for me. At the HPDE I was running up around 235-240F pretty consistently forcing me to ease up on the straights to not go over that. I'm currently working on a radiator upgrade and proper ducting, so I'm hoping those combined with the blankets do the trick. If not, I'll be forced to put a hole in the hood.

Brian and I signed up for the PittRace HPDE event again this year (just one day this time). I'm hoping to get back to PittRace in May for a shorter day to shake the car down and see if it overheats. And there are plenty of autox events throughout the year starting in May that I'll try to get to.

 

[gofer]

My oil temperature is higher than usual since I don't have a cooler at the moment, but I didn't notice any change in the coolant temperature. On the street, coolant temperatures have never been an issue for me. At the HPDE I was running up around 235-240F pretty consistently forcing me to ease up on the straights to not go over that. I'm currently working on a radiator upgrade and proper ducting, so I'm hoping those combined with the blankets do the trick. If not, I'll be forced to put a hole in the hood.

Brian and I signed up for the PittRace HPDE event again this year (just one day this time). I'm hoping to get back to PittRace in May for a shorter day to shake the car down and see if it overheats. And there are plenty of autox events throughout the year starting in May that I'll try to get to.

Maybe I've noticed a change with the manifold blanket then because I run a cooler t-stat, 154* Mishimoto. Typically, without the manifold blanket, my CT's would rise to 190* and hangout there at idle but once I get up to speed (40mph+) my CT's would drop to around 165-170*. After I installed the manifold blanket my CT's, even while I was idling for 10m sitting in the Taco Bell drive thru after I installed it, CT's never rose about 180*. With no proof of why, I just attributed it to the manifold blanket doing a better job at controlling heat soak of the waterpipe, radiator, and upper radiator hose than what the ceramic coating did by itself.

What radiators are you looking at? I think pushing the radiator forward where the AC condenser normally sits helps with heat soak too and would give you more room for ducting out the hood (like Beau's setup) if it comes down to that.

Looking forward to seeing the results from that PittRace HPDE event in a few months, I'm sure you'll see a decrease in CT's with those heat blankets you've installed around the hot parts going around the track.

 

[GofaST4life]

FWIW - I ran a cheap "eBay" Aluminum "race" radiator in my GSX when I was AutoX'ing it 24/7. I was VERY surprised as to how well it kept my coolant temps in check during some extremely hot events at Lake Erie Speedway. The speedway way bowl acts like a frying pan in the summer as the walls/etc don't let a lot of wind down into it.

E85, Billet 20g @ 25psi, tuned and supporting mods & 85+ ambient temps - car stayed below 212 during hard pulls and flying finishes. My stock radiator would be in the 230+ range after runs. All logged data.

Now I know that's not comparable to track racing but still. Might be a cost effective upgrade to consider.

 

[turbosax2]

My coolant temps are normally around 205F with a 180* stock thermostat. That temperature doesn't really concern me since the fan comes on around 210F or so. I got a Koyo radiator already and I'm working on the ducting at the moment. To push the radiator into the condenser area more I'd have to get a smaller one and eliminate the hood latch to really do it right. This was one of those KISS areas for me - there's a bolt-in solution that's reasonably priced, so I'll give that a whirl first before going crazy.

In general, I've started to change my way of thinking about the car a bit. As much as I'd love to pick up all the sweet suspension bits that our freelancers are putting out I realize that they won't make go around the track significantly faster. What is my best bang for the buck at this point to have fun with the car and put down consistent lap times? I'm to the point now where I have plenty of power for my skill level, the brakes should be adequate for anything I can throw at the car, and it's still a clean street/track car. So I'm not really interested in going all-out with projects to take away from the fun of driving it or spending a lot of money on things that I could spend elsewhere.

My wishlist at the moment is:
Another set of wheels (still use street tires, not interested in going to R comps since I'm not competing)
Racetech RT4009 seats
Harnesses/mild cage (just so I can use the harnesses)

Those are some pretty pricey pieces!

 

[gofer]

In general, I've started to change my way of thinking about the car a bit. As much as I'd love to pick up all the sweet suspension bits that our freelancers are putting out I realize that they won't make go around the track significantly faster. What is my best bang for the buck at this point to have fun with the car and put down consistent lap times? I'm to the point now where I have plenty of power for my skill level, the brakes should be adequate for anything I can throw at the car, and it's still a clean street/track car. So I'm not really interested in going all-out with projects to take away from the fun of driving it or spending a lot of money on things that I could spend elsewhere.

My wishlist at the moment is:
Another set of wheels (still use street tires, not interested in going to R comps since I'm not competing)
Racetech RT4009 seats
Harnesses/mild cage (just so I can use the harnesses)

Those are some pretty pricey pieces!

Says the guy with $2k worth of alignment tools for corner balancing? Just saying. haha

 

[snowborder714]

Says the guy with $2k worth of alignment tools for corner balancing? Just saying. haha

That's all my money wrapped up in that (and sadly I think it's more than that). He just benefits from it. Maybe I should charge him to rent them...

 

[turbosax2]

Shut up, Corey!!!

 

[Atuca]

Did they remove the like button? Because I like Brian's response

Keep up the good work Eric!