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Machined Valve Covers and T-case

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Another curiosity, are the remaining tooling marks intentional? style? functional?
I've done a bit of milling and it's often desirable to take the time to do additional passes to clean up the final product. Maybe it's glare and the marks are only surface deep?

Either way, I have way more interest in that tcase brace :)


EDIT: +1 for no social media fellatio, thanks for making this available here.

Those are just from glare. It could be polished out easily by hand.
 
They are going to be a low production run unit so they will be spendy. They will be more than 500.00. the Chunk of 6061 is around 200+ by itself. Think more like 650 or 700ish I'd think once you add run time.
Still....anyone who has been into these cars for an extended period of time that removes their valve cover regularly and has replaced 10 cracked stock ones at +/- $50 a piece plus the cost of any polishing or powdercoating would welcome this work of art knowing they're not going to lose their fancy polish/powercoat job when their cast cover cracks.
 
Still....anyone who has been into these cars for an extended period of time that removes their valve cover regularly and has replaced 10 cracked stock ones at +/- $50 a piece plus the cost of any polishing or powdercoating would welcome this work of art knowing they're not going to lose their fancy polish/powercoat job when their cast cover cracks.

A-men. Wife broke another one of mine a couple months ago.
 
+1 for the half moon machined into the cover. I hate that piece. So how would the stock gasket work in regard to how you were describing it? Kinda like the aluminum being wrapped around the edge where the gasket sits? Also, this being said, what would in turn buffer the half moon section of the VC from contacting the bare cyl head? Just some simple rtv?

We are talking about two different things. The half moon/ crescent parts I'm talking about are for the baffling. The would shield the VC vent holes a bit more from windage.

Still....anyone who has been into these cars for an extended period of time that removes their valve cover regularly and has replaced 10 cracked stock ones at +/- $50 a piece plus the cost of any polishing or powdercoating would welcome this work of art knowing they're not going to lose their fancy polish/powercoat job when their cast cover cracks.

I totally agree. He needs to stamp each unit with a production number. Art deserves a signature.
 
Also I would want the FF logo a lot bigger to show it off just like he has on his catch cans. Got to show pride in that kinda stuff especially with time spent. I have already talked to him. I said I am down for the vc,AN fittings and catch can. Just to have it all in one. Got to pay to play.
 
I see. What about the one I'm speaking of? Would that even be a possibly since the VC gasket sits over it?

I can't for any reason see why you would want to build that into the valve cover. It is very easy to seal it up with the rubber half moon.
 
I totally agree. He needs to stamp each unit with a production number. Art deserves a signature.

Great idea! Maybe nab the font and sizing of the Galant numbering plate? either way, a signature of some kind is surely deserved.

I can't for any reason see why you would want to build that into the valve cover. It is very easy to seal it up with the rubber half moon.

I was thinking the same thing. I may have only done a VC 10 times, which is nothing say compared to you or Justin, but never have I had any grief with the rubber half moon. I've never deviated from the manual but I'd imagine following directions is key.

Also, thanks Kevin for confirming the glare. :thumb:
 
4th and 5th pic show the pre set -10's

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Sorry shit never shows up with this stupid mobile forum browser.
 
It'd also cost more to machine the plug well to the same finish as the top which would increase price. He also assumes that people will either run a plug wire cover or he has considered making a matching COP plate.

How about direct bolt on bosses for the coils?
 
was wondering if the though of using studs in the head and something like lock nuts on the head side was ever considered with this. The holes for the screws look like they are a tight fit for socket head cap screws only.

I think the studs would aid in lining up the vc for install and was actually going to do this on my new vc before i saw these. Would be nice especially if using a sealer to help keep vc gasket from leaking
 
was wondering if the though of using studs in the head and something like lock nuts on the head side was ever considered with this. The holes for the screws look like they are a tight fit for socket head cap screws only.

I think the studs would aid in lining up the vc for install and was actually going to do this on my new vc before i saw these. Would be nice especially if using a sealer to help keep vc gasket from leaking

Andrew set it up so it would look super clean.

Also when you use studs it can be hard to get the VC because it must go under the cam gears. An example is when I used the Hyundai studs and VC The studs had to be ground down a few and it left very little thread engagement. This made getting the VC on and off that much harder.

Kevin
 
You can also use the STM SS VC bolts. Due to them having a Allen head on them. So you don't be messing up the nice polish.
 
all the stm kit vc bolt set are is commonly available socket head cap screws at 10 times the normal price because they are a kit.
 
I like it but why use the crappy stock gasket that always fails? I cant get a v/c gasket to last more than 2 months before it starts leaking.
 
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