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2.4 turbo Hyped

15+ Year Contributor
575
3
Jan 6, 2004
Portland, Oregon
I have been browsing posts and noticed alot of bogus info being posted about these motors so I want to state some facts about these motors from personal experience.

First of all a 4g64 is a 7 bolt 2.4l bottom end. If you like crankwalk this is the block for you. I myself wont ever use this block for anything. There are ways to fix the crankwalk problem but it tends to be time consuming and useless when you can get a stout g4cs block that will work just fine.

A g4cs is a 6 bolt 2.4l block. This is the block you want to avoid crankwalk or having to plug holes in the block. I am running 2 of these motors. I have a g4cs with a 4g63 crankshaft in it which creates a 6.9:1 2.1 liter engine that responds very well to boost but has very little low end power. I created this engine as a bandaid to get my eclipse back on the road.

For those of you wanting the cheap route you cannot use the stock pistons and rods with the stock crankshaft and then bolt up your 4g63 head and a big turbo. The reason you cannot do this is because it creates an 11:1 compression ratio. The knock is uncontrollable even using 120 octane fuel (trust me I fried 2 crankshafts finding out). Trial and error has taught me alot about these motors.

For those of you thinking you can use a g64b block best of luck getting your 4g63 tranny to bolt up to it. The bell housing is too wide on the block.

On the engine stand I am building a g4cs 2.4l beast. Wiseco makes forged pistons in a standard bore size which is great if you have a nice block that doesnt require boring. Eagle rods mate perfectly to this setup. I am going to post some pictures of the buildup so you can all see what actually goes into the block and the proper way to build one. This is the fifth one I have built. If you like the feeling of being in a 747 during take off this is the motor you want.

For any of you that have any questions on this setup please dont hesitate to post I will answer your questions to the best of my ability.
 
Here are some pics of the upcoming "online" build I will be doing here on dsm tuners. Bear with me as I will be adding parts as time and money permits.

Check out the set of stock pistons and rods that come in the g4cs hyundai sonata block.
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Recognize the rods?? They are the EXACT same part number at the 4g63 6 bolt rods. The pistons are useless in this application as they would create an 11:1 compression ratio when one bolts the 4g63 head to this block. the rods in this application would be good to about 370 hp due to the extra angle placed on them with the 100 mm stroke.

Check out the block I have prepped it by honing out the cylinders and making a nice cross hatch pattern which will aid in piston ring to cylinder wall oiling.
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This is the bare timing belt side of the engine. It looks almost identical to the 4g63. Everything from the 4g63 will bolt up to this block. Keep in mind the only part you will be reusing from the stock g4cs is the block and the crankshaft.

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The next step will be installing the rods and the pistons. I will be using eagle rods (6 bolt 4g63), and wiseco pistons (part #K564M865
stock bore). I should have these on hand by the end of the month (tax return is coming and I will be buying the rest of the parts needed for the buildup).

Feel free to post your questions and comments as we go along with this buildup. Any vendors wanting to sponsor this buildup with discount prices on parts needed please email me. Thanks!
 
why does the trans not bolt up and what do u have to do to make it work
 
The g64b block found in the expo vans and the mighty max pickup is set up for a rear wheel drive style transmission. The bell housing on the engine block is too wide for a 4g63 transmission. Is it possible to modify the block to make it work? The answer to this question is yes, but you will have to drill and tap new holes for the dowel pins and bolt holes on the block. It would be much simpler to start with the correct block rather than modify the g64b.
 
My block is a G64B (at least that's what is stamped on it ) out of a 1985 Galant. It bolted up to my 2G transmission the same as the 4G63. I guess the key is to get one out of a FWD vehicle.
 
before u read dont take this the wrong way.
its just that you posted some things that have been questioned to no end and still no one has any answers.

there are ways to fix the crank walk problem? pleast tell me so I can have it done.

I just wonder where u found out that a 4g64 7bolt it more likley to get crank walk than a 2.4l 6 bolt. in the 4g63 the 6 bolt is less likely to get crank walk, but how many people have even built the hybrids? I dont even have mine in my car yet, not to say that others dont.

I am not saying that the 6 bolt 2.4l isnt a good choice becasue I think it is, but I just dont think that there is any proof that its a better choice for some one with a 2g.

aside from that, good luck with ur build up. I just thought that u might want to know that there is a long rod set up avalable for this. lets u rev higher and has better cylinder filling at higher rpms. the cross hatches in the honing aid in ring sealing they help to take off any high spots in the rings. if that helps with oiling too, cool
 
Originally posted by 2.4 turbo Hyped
For those of you thinking you can use a g64b block best of luck getting your 4g63 tranny to bolt up to it. The bell housing is too wide on the block.

There are two different bellhousing patterns out there. 13.25" and 12.5". 12.5 is what is needed to mount a DSM tranny to it.
 
If you find a g64b out of a galant the bell housing should bolt up. Notice the vehicles I mentioned with the g64b were the expo and the mightymax pickup.

As for the 7 bolt crankwalk problem do a search on here its been covered to death. Arp makes a main bearing bolt kit with some sleeves to align the main bearings that supposedly prevent the crankwalk problem. I myself dont deal with the 7 bolts in any way shape or form.
 
I have no idea where this guy is getting his info, but he is full of sh*t. I just purchased a 4G64, yes 4G64 out of a 95 Galant. Yes, it is a 7 bolt! Never heard of the 4G64 crank walking, just the 4G63, but instead mine seized up; reason unknown. I will tell you up front that I don't know jack about motors, I am having a friend help build my setup. Yet I do know how to research topics that interest me. RRE lists all the motors of mitsubishi's, hyundai's, etc.... Many articles on teamnabr.com, Magnus motorsports runs one in their car, which ran in the 9's, he sells them as well for $4K, capable of supporting 800hp! We have a guy local that just dyno'd his car, amazing torque, go to www.RMDSM.org, look up Mark Phillips run.
It took you 5 times to get something possibly correct, yet if you did your homework, your 2nd try should've been sweet! DSMr's need to do their homework, not everything on the internet is true!
Later,
Chad
97 GSX
"awaiting 2.4L install"
 
No flamewars!

Don't give tech advice unless you have first-hand knowledge of the subject. Again, link to the answer and try not to guess the answer to a question. If you are not completely sure about your answer, be sure and state that in your reply. The goal is to not spread hearsay or bad information.

Anyways pistons and main and rod bearings will be here this week. I will be posting more pics of the buildup this coming weekend. The crankshaft will be going in as well as how to check for proper piston clearances.

Btw 5 times, 2 were experimental to see what would happen if one used stock parts, the other 3 are still running strong.

Best of luck to you on your 7 bolt endeavor please post how it turns out on the forums.

Happy honda smoking! Sean
 
I have a long rod 2.4L 97GSX. Its a G4CS but sometimes I call it a 4G64 because people know what that is. My buildup has been ongoing for sometime due to the long rod development at first and then me simply not having time to finish the project and at one point almost selling it. There are pictures and details on my site if anyone cares. www.swordfishGSX.8m.com

I only know of one instance where a DSM'er has gotten crank walk in a 4G64. And it looked more like builder error than crankwalk but there was no definate conclusion.

Some things in the first post seem a bit odd though. 6.9:1 compression responding well to boost. I dont see a 6.9:1 car and the word responding going together in that sentence. I'm sure it allows him to run high boost levels on pump but I bet that car is a slug. Also, uncontrolable knock on 11.0:1 on race gas? I dont get it. I can see it being a problem on pump gas and boost levels exceding 12-14psi but race gas... I dont see the problem. Marco's engines are over 11.0:1 and I have personally built sleeved street honda's over 11.0:1 and had no problems tuning them. Are they great for a daily driven pump gas car.... nope.... but they work great on racegas and if you have the proper tuning experience the will be just fine on pump gas too.

This post is not a flame, I just wanted to respond with my experience on high compression turbo engines. Having a 6.9:1 engine totally throws me for a loop. I have no experience with compression this low, but if some of you think a stock 7.8:1 1G motor is laggy on a 20G or larger I wonder how you would like this.

Good luck with you project.

jeff
 
I left this off as well. You can also take a 2.4 crank (100mm stroke) and put it in a 4G63 block and bore the block enough to get 2.4L out of the 4G63 block (87mm). http://www.pinktemple.com/stroker.html

As for the 2.4L G4CS, on the next build, I plan on punching mine out to 88 or 88.5mm if I can find a head gasket that will seal. The will get me close to 2.5L.

jeff
 
I think the main reason the knock was so dang hard to control is the simple fact that the piston design isnt made for a turbo setup.
It did have lots of power even at max knock counts but the rod bearings took the beating and that was the end of it.

As for my current motor yes it can run insane amounts of boost on 87 octane all day long with no knock. The low end does suffer a bit but I usually keep the rpms above 4 grand which keeps plenty of torque at the wheels.

Keep in mind that this motor was also experimental to see if stock parts could be used to create a reliable powerful motor. Swapping the 100mm crankshaft for the 88mm crankshaft proved to be the quickest fix to the detonation that had destroyed the first two motors.

Stay tuned for further updates. Sean
 
Got some more parts today to continue the buildup. Main bearings, rod bearings, and balance shaft eliminator kit.

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I want to thank Mike Junker on ebay for the main bearings and rod bearings for 110 shipped. Id also like to thank Ron at www.rpmmachine.com for the balance shaft eliminator kit for 28 bucks shipped.

Bearings go in like so. Make sure the "grooved" bearings with the 2 big holes are the ones "in the block". Use assembly lube on them before you set the crankshaft in.

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Once you have the crankshaft dropped in get the main caps ready by placing the main bearings in them with a generous amount of assembly lube. Also make sure the main caps are facing the correct direction. In this particular application the arrows on the caps face the timing belt side of the block.

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I use a 2 step torque pattern staring from the center main cap and working my way out. First torque all the main caps to 25 lbs and then do a final torque of 42 lbs.

Thats it for now. Stay tuned for the balance shaft removal install.
 
FYI, I've been running a Mitsubishi 4G64 6 bolt motor for over a year and love it. I yanked the motor from a 1991 Expo. The ONLY parts that were different were the cam gears and timing belt. Everything else swapped over, head and all. I think the car will go 10.30s this year and hit 140 w/o juice. Oh, and shifting at 7500 rocks! Hope that helps clear up some things.
 
Thanks for the input it is appreciated. UPDATE!! I just got in my set of wiseco pistons. Im still waiting on eagle rods.
 
Originally posted by CursedGSX
FYI, I've been running a Mitsubishi 4G64 6 bolt motor for over a year and love it. I yanked the motor from a 1991 Expo. The ONLY parts that were different were the cam gears and timing belt. Everything else swapped over, head and all. I think the car will go 10.30s this year and hit 140 w/o juice. Oh, and shifting at 7500 rocks! Hope that helps clear up some things.

HOLY CRAP!! What kind of tranny are you running on that beast??
 
Originally posted by 2.4 turbo Hyped
HOLY CRAP!! What kind of tranny are you running on that beast??

Stock transmission. Unfortunately it wasn't up to the task at the last event of 03 so it's getting the dual syncro 2nd gear. I broke the 1-2 fork. I had really bad 330' and 1/8th times because of the trans not wanting to go into 2nd at higher rpms. I run a welded center diff as well.
 
Im very surprised that it holds up to that abuse. Its good to know it does as I will be reaching that power level very soon. Thanks!
 
Rods will be here this week. I will be doing an install of the rods and pistons. I am still waiting on a gasket kit to do the front case\balance shaft removal install. Bear with me gang Im awful short on cashola.
 
Got some more pics for you guys. Please forgive the crappiness of my 50 dollar digital camera.

This picture shows the balance shaft removal kit on the block. I used a 32mm socket and a small hammer to tap this one in.

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In this picture I am pointing out the second blockoff bearing that needs to be installed. I used one of the old balance shafts to install it.

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Heres the wiseco pistons that I got from a fellow dsmer on here that goes by the name of jydog. He sold them to me shipped for 200 bucks. He needed the .20 overbore ones as the block he had was too worn and had too much piston to cylinder wall clearance. These are the standard bore pistons that call for .003 clearance. All of the cylinders ended up being .004. Wiseco says if you are boosting above 12 psi with these pistons they suggest another .001 clearance. If you use nitrous they want another .001. I dont like nitrous so the clearances I have work out just perfect. The compression ratio for these will end up being 8.7:1 with a 4 layer metal head gasket.

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One final picture I wanted to throw in is this oil pan. I got this in a grab box of parts. I believe it is a 7 bolt oil pan as it has a dip in the timing belt side. Can anyone confirm this?? A 6 bolt pan is flat all around. Its too bad cause this thing is in perfect shape. I have no use for it. I do need a 6 bolt pan and turbo drain line though.

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Thats all for now. When I get the rods in Ill be checking the clearances and posting pics of the assembly. Thanks for the space.
 
Here we go with another installment. This time I will be posting pics of the rod and piston install. I will be using a wiseco/eagle combo. Heres a shot of the rods.

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I got these from cnc-motorsports on ebay for 300 bucks shipped. I doubt there is any company out there that can beat that price. the wiseco pins fit into the rods perfectly. I installed the spirolocks and came up with this yummy looking picture.

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Im not going to get into the details that every engine builder should know like staggering the piston rings and lubing the rod bearings but heres a shot of a couple of the pistons installed. Rod bolts are torqued to 43 ft/lbs.

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Here is a shot of the oil pump/front case with the balance shaft eliminator plug installed. I use a bit of jb weld around the lip of it just for good measure.

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All that is left now to do is a basic install of the front case, bolt up all of the accessories and drop it in.
 
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