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Like Father like...Daughter. Her Project Car my Money.

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Hey everyone. Here is to the beginning of something great.

Picked up a red 1995 GSX as a project car for my Daughter and I. We have 3 years until she gets her license so that is the timeline for this build. We have big plans and little knowledge of DSM and turbo mechanics. I have worked on cars off and on my whole life and understand the value of learning the skills involved in this endeavor. I am using this project to teach my children valuable life lessons all while showing them what a little hard work, some frustration and a lot of satisfaction feels like.

I have already met quite a few members who helped me in the newbie section and I have to say I am impressed with the community so far, everyone seems to be living up to the little message listed right below the posting box.

I hope to get a lot of ideas and insights from the community, help with problems, pointers and constructive criticism.

Its been 15 years since I turned wrenches on cars, I am rusty but a quick learner. So without further to do, here is the current condition of the vehicle to my knowledge as it was sold to me;

  • Apexi intake
  • Injen intake pipe C.A.R.B
  • 14B turbo
  • Greddy front mount intercooler
  • Greddy FV blow off valve
  • Greddy intercooler piping
  • Evo3 turbo manifold
  • Evo9 Enkei wheels 245/45/17 new tires
  • Megan Drop springs
  • Konig shocks
  • Greddy weighted shift knob
  • B&M shifter
  • Greddy catback /aftermarket muffler
  • ACT clutch
  • Fidanza flywheel
  • 102k Miles

Currently Known Mechanical Issues:

  • Gas level gauge no accurate (ordered new unit)
  • Oil pressure gauge reading zero (had aftermarket column cluster wires still present, but ordered new unit just in case)
  • Leaky Clutch Master Cylinder (ordered)
  • Sometimes easy, sometimes hard to get into First (possibly the leaky master?)
  • Exhaust leaks (probably more then one, after sitting for awhile in the garage after a drive, garage becomes smokey)
  • Missing Heat Shields
  • Missing Fuse Block Cover
  • Anti-Lock Brake Light on
  • A/C not working (heater core looks to have leaked but been replaced)
  • Has a push button for starter and turnkey for ignition (probably delete that at some point back to stock)

Currently Planned Repairs:

  • Repair gas level gauge
  • Repair stock oil pressure gauge
  • Replace clutch master
  • Figure out why 1st gear is tough intermittently
  • Find and repair all exhaust leaks
  • Replace heat shield
  • Replace missing fuse block cover
  • Figure out ABS issue
  • Work on the A/C issue


Currently Planned Mods:

  • PowerStop Front and Rear Caliper, Rotor and Pad Upgrade (Parts already in)
  • Column Cluster
  • Radio Upgrade
  • Turbo and Exhaust Manifold Upgrade
  • This Density thing and learning to tune :)
  • I am sure a lot more will come into play

I do not plan on worry about cosmetics until towards the end of the build. I look forward to everyone's suggestions, thoughts and input.

Thanks for reading.
 
As you have the benefit of time I would suggest a lot of reading. Unless you have an immediate need. I've been doing this 25 years plus. So many things are well documented. Some good reads are the vfaq pages and the 1000aaq pages if they're still out there. Some info is aging and may not be quite as accurate for today's world but it's mostly still good. Bang for buck dsm is very high. Also very very unforgiving when poorly maintained.
 
Welcome to this forum! I like how you are taking the car project, and teaching so much more about life’s challenges. As a father and son team, we’ve learned and grown in knowledge and patience, and share an unbreakable bond.

We agree, that although the temptation is there to wrench in the mods, read a lot first. It may change your mind on what you want to do for mods.

The only thought, reading through your planned mods list, is the Speed Density tuning. Read up on ECMLink first. It is probably easier to use for beginning tuners.

Best of luck with the project. Post lots of pictures to help inspire all of us, as well.
 
As you have the benefit of time I would suggest a lot of reading. Unless you have an immediate need. I've been doing this 25 years plus. So many things are well documented. Some good reads are the vfaq pages and the 1000aaq pages if they're still out there. Some info is aging and may not be quite as accurate for today's world but it's mostly still good. Bang for buck dsm is very high. Also very very unforgiving when poorly maintained.

I have already found the post that had the OEM manuals. Downloaded them to my tablet and have been reading through them bookmarking sections. I will dig though the forums as I can and try not to be a total newbie.
 
Welcome to this forum! I like how you are taking the car project, and teaching so much more about life’s challenges. As a father and son team, we’ve learned and grown in knowledge and patience, and share an unbreakable bond.

We agree, that although the temptation is there to wrench in the mods, read a lot first. It may change your mind on what you want to do for mods.

The only thought, reading through your planned mods list, is the Speed Density tuning. Read up on ECMLink first. It is probably easier to use for beginning tuners.

Best of luck with the project. Post lots of pictures to help inspire all of us, as well.

ECMLink, got it I will head up on it.
 
Awesome, I begged my dad to purchase my first DSM and it was our bonding experience together. I hope you and your daughter get to enjoy this as much as I enjoyed spending time with my dad on my DSM. Like stated earlier, do a lot of reading. There have been so many different setups tried and used over the years. You will quickly find yourself changing your mind on what you will want to do. Get the basic maintenance and repairs done and look up from there.
 
Glad to have a Father/Daughter project to follow! Thanks for coming to the best, most helpful site for our cars!
Good Luck on the build!
 
Welcome to in my opinion one of the best car forums you can find. There is a wealth of information on this site as well as some great people. The DSM community is awesome and we love to see new people. I think it's awesome that you are doing this with your daughter. Make sure you keep us updated and as someone stated above me when it comes to tuning check out ECMlink. Also make sure to check the classified section during your project you will find good deals on parts you might need during the build. Again good luck and welcome
 
Hey guys! A couple weekends ago we swapped out the stock brakes for the PowerStop brakes. I did the drivers side and explained the process and the components along with their functions. Then Akayla did everything on the passenger side except breaking the bolts loose :). Here are some of the pics.
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Hey guys! A couple weekends ago we swapped out the stock brakes for the PowerStop brakes. I did the drivers side and explained the process and the components along with their functions. Then Akayla did everything on the passenger side except breaking the bolts loose :). Here are some of the pics.
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Beautiful!!! This is something she will never forget. Keep up the good work Sir.
 
One thing to do I would recommend, is to replace the timing belt and the associated components. Who knows when it was last done? If you need help on that, pm me. I live by south point. Good luck with your build!
 
Just thought Id take a minute to update the build and ask a couple questions on the forum in regards to the changes.

Two weekends ago we replaced the turbo exhaust seals and replaced the vacuum line. I replaced all but one of the turbo exhaust bolts, I was unable to replace the one which had the stacked washers. Those are there because the current turbo does not have a thread through hole, it is closed in and therefore even the factory bolt bottomed out well before it would have tightened up. I also had to add the T back in to the BOV - to - Intake line (for now) since my J Pipe doesn't have the port for the solenoid currently.

Last weekend we replaced the turbo oil return line which was leaking (that was a slightly frustrating installation LOL), added a oil pressure gauge sending unit, changed the oil and replaced the fuel level gauge sending unit.

I am happy to report that the fuel level gauge is now working accurately and the oil return line is now holding strong. However I now have the low oil pressure light, flickering intermittently, more always on then off. My first guess is there is air in the T adapter I used to be able to add the second sensor. The oil pressure gauge is also unresponsive though I have a feeling that it may be disconnected as there used to be gauge pillar and there are wires just chilling there. I will be determining that after the holidays.

I also noticed that I could feel rhythmic combustion pressure on my number 2 spark plug when pressing my finger on it, none of the others do it and my spider senses are tingling. Its been awhile since I have been inside a valve cover and head so wont guess on that one yet.

Also seems like my fuel injectors are pretty "noisy" ( I hear a lot of clicking going on in that general area).

Comments and of course Suggestions are always welcome. Thanks again for the support. Pictures below.

Next items:

1. Replace the clutch master cylinder, since it has not been a daily driver I have noticed that the pressure keep bleeding down. Parts are in.

2. Determine current issues with the oil pressure gauges.

3. Radiator and cooling system upgrade.

4. Find the rest of the exhaust leaks.

5. Figure out the #2 cylinder ??pressure leak??

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Fuel Sending unit..jpg
New and Oil turbo line.jpg
removing old line.jpg
 

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*Spyder* senses :thumb:

1- pretty straight forward.
2- posted in your other thread, that switch looks old and crusty, toss a new one on and re-check. At least think about re-orienting the oil sensors, or remote mount them.
3- good things. I recommend fluidyne or koyo rads, many have luck with mishimoto and even eBay rads. Stock fans work best, if you need clearance, buy quality fans and have a good airflow-directing shroud.
4- stainless gaskets, either stamped or mls, work best imo. And ensuring surfaces are flat and smooth as possible. Copper spray can help if needed.
5- do you mean you feel air movement from combustion over the #2 boot area? Is it extremely hot? If not, might be a cracked valve cover. Be kinda hard to have combustion pressure leak past a spark plug in my mind.
May a leaky vc cap or plug well gasket, and #2 (or another cylinderc) has blow-by, pressurizing the crank case and is puffing through the leaky area?

Keep trucking, things are going well it looks like!
 
Hey Team,

So we are moving along with the build steadily. Since the last update we replaced the following:

1. Master Cylinder: After replacement I still have a difficult time getting the trans into 1st. I discovered that if I place it into any other gear first and leave the clutch in I can slide it into first easily. However if let the clutch out and push it in again the issue with getting it into first comes back.

2. Replaced the oil pressure switch. When we added the pressure gauge sending unit I noticed when we fired it up the oil light was off and on at idle, and when I revved up it came on solid. I thought Id start with a new pressure switch. Replaced it and same thing. Puzzled about it for a minute and then removed the wire from the the pressure gauge sending unit, oil pressure light went out completely (thinking maybe I swapped the wires during the first phase). Took that wire and plugged it into the pressure switch. Light did not come back on again with the car running. My only concern about that is the fact that when I had it completely disconnected the light was not on (in elevator safety systems this is usually reversed, since if the wire was damaged or disconnected you would not be warned by the light). So I am thinking I still may have a problem. Advise would be greatly appreciated.

3. Next we redid the oil return line as I noticed a minor leak on the oil pan connection.

4. Replaced the valve cover gasket as recommended for the leaks, also did the plugs and wires. During the plug removal noticed that the spark plugs were not torqued at all, could have probably removed them with my hands on the extension and a little effort. Figured that to be my compression leak.

5. Installed a new ignition wire cover for the valve cover. Missing bolts need to order some.

Pics below for those who want to see.

Next Steps:

1. Verify oil pressure switch issues...again

2. Replace Battery

3. Replace radiator and hoses.

4. Find the remaining exhaust leaks.

5. Install a new bezel piece for the driver side mirror switches, since the current one is damage and will not stay secured in place.

6. Upgrade exhaust manifold.

7. Replace J pipe or add inlet for vacuum line to installed J pipe to correct vacuum line issue.

valve cover 3.jpg
valve cover 1.jpg
replacing clutch master cylinder.jpg
removing old line.jpg
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Wow. Has it been 8 months...good thing I have another 4 years before she can drive. So pretty quickly after this work we did in Jan, I took her for a spin, and during that drive it began to get difficult to get it into 1st. I was thinking I needed to take it to the trans shop, was thinking big money so stuck it on the back burner for a bit. Last month I was about to get it hauled to the shop, so I decided before I do all that, might as well look at the shifting column. Sure glad I did, it ended up just being a loose shifter bolt, causing the over extension of the lower part of the lever, which would strike the column when trying to shift into first. So we are back in business.

We have the Mushimoto radiator and fan assembly, hoses and thermostat we can fire up at any time now, probably this weekend. Pictures to follow, and excited to be back at it.
 
Alright Fellas, we waited a little longer for a small lift to come in. Got it built during the week and put it to work this weekend. Today we removed the old and busted radiator and installed the new Mishimoto system. Went in smooth, we replaced the thermostat while we were in there. Pulled the ECU out and sent it to ECMtuning last week, coming back this Friday. Good times. Here are the pics, enjoy.
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If you haven't done it yet, a compression test is always a good thing to do. It will tell you the general health of the engine. If you have weird numbers after that, a leak down test will tell you where you have a compression leak. There may be nothing wrong with the engine but the peace of mind is worth it. My engine has 214k with good compression numbers so you never know.
 
You’re missing conical washers for the turbo bolts MR187848. It takes two per bolt and I recommend changing that one odd bolt to oem. They’re the best :thumb:
I see it too. That hardware store bolt needs to go. It will cause problems later. OEM bolts are coated and hardened. Expensive too...for a bolt anyway.
 
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