GVR-4 Left built head outside for about 4 years...can I use it?

[v8s_are_slow]

Bogus also had a pretty bad name on some of the ford 2.3 forums just an fyi. I'd definitely have the head checked just for piece of mind and the whole why not since it's not together. There's nothing worse than doing a job twice when it can be prevented

I've tried saying this about Bogus for years but no one ever wanted to believe me because he's the great BogusSvo "Wiseman". Lol. He's still on some of the local Facebook groups and no one really wants to believe me there either, but it's whatever. Their money.

 

[Boomdeeze]

You make sense. I have 6T valves laying around as well that I could use if these are rusted. Could this work instead? It's a bit cheaper and free shipping:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-TALON-Evo-8-9-4G63-ENGINE-VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-TOOL/322391010470?hash=item4b10006ca6:g:OXgAAOxyNThTdqES&_sacat=0&_nkw=Euro+Export+Valve+Spring+tool&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0

Either way, do I jack up the installed seals when I pull the valves?

Besides the investment, I am a bit intimidated to do something wrong. I guess that's natural when entering the unknown. I also like to limit being invasive when possible.

Thank you.

I can't speak on that one as I haven't used it. I used the Euro one and it's great.

I removed the springs in my head to replace a slightly bent valve before and to replace the seals, it was straight forward. Just read up a little before you do them.

 

[chrysler kid]

I thought I posted in this thread

Anyways you need to remove the valve springs and remove the valves and replace the valve stem seals

When the head has the valves out and the seals removed I would liberally run some b12 through the oil passages for the lifters on the head. Then pour some motor oil through the passages to make sure any residue is gone and there is no contamination

The biggest concern is that the valves would have some calcium build up or deposits left that would damage the guides or the seals.

The very least is replace the seals. Don't use the euro tool, use the big lever type to put pressure on the bottom of the valve and the top of the spring. The euro tool is meant to be used for on car valve spring removal

 

[4gfun]

Ok thanks for the additional posts. I put some seafoam in the ports for a few minutes and it exposed a few things. Rusty valve stems. Not sure how deep but can inspect further later. I took a flashlight and could see light around one of the valves. What causes that? Deposits or something more sinister? I could put the HLAs and followers in and turn the cams to see if I can clean the valve seat (hope that I a using the right term) should there be junk in there. I think that would take too much time though.

Anyways, I am ready to buy the Euro Tool since I don't like to reinvent the wheel on tools that I am not familiar with. One of you says that tool is fine and the other says to use another type. I'd prefer to use one that can be used on and off the car unless that is not possible.

Do I need to lap the valves when putting them back in? I saw Jafro's video about lapping the valves but I want to keep it simple if possible. I find that if I am too much of a perfectionist I just tend to let things sit and end up with situations like the one that I am in the first place.

Thanks!!

 

[4gfun]

Ugghhh back from the grave. No answers on the last post but I have a new question. I have some used non-rusty 4g63T valves from the head that were on the previous non built head. Can I use these valves as replacements without going to the machine shop? I purchased the large clamp type spring compressor since the head is off the car to do the job.

Won't a used valve seat differently? Could I lap the valves and get away with it? Do I have to buy new valves?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

You can use those valves. You will have to lap them to see if they seal and it may take a bit of lapping to get them to.
Good luck on the large C clamp type spring remover. I couldn't get mine to work in the small area but the euro tool worked fine.
After lapping and seeing a good "ring" on the seat and valve, the next test is will it hold without leaking. I put the springs on and use lacquer thinner in the runner to see if it holds or leaks out on the cylinder side.
It will be time consuming but can be done. If any DONT hold or won't seal then a different valve and maybe a trip to the machinist may be needed for that.

 

[bastarddsm]

Send me your head, I'll fix it for you reasonably.

 

[chrysler kid]

Ugghhh back from the grave. No answers on the last post but I have a new question. I have some used non-rusty 4g63T valves from the head that were on the previous non built head. Can I use these valves as replacements without going to the machine shop? I purchased the large clamp type spring compressor since the head is off the car to do the job.

Won't a used valve seat differently? Could I lap the valves and get away with it? Do I have to buy new valves?

You can use a valve grinding compound, it's a paste to clean the surface of the valve and the area on the cylinder head. You want to get rid of the imperfections on the valve first and then use a drill to spin the valve in the head to mate the valve to the valve seating surface.

like I mentioned earlier rust isnt a deal breaker, you can soak the parts in some rust remover over night, clean them up, then soak them in clean new oil the next night to remove any cleaning residue.