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Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

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I just installed a true Evo III IM this week too (back in the day I had an RVR), there's so many vacuum/boost sources on it I don't know what to do with myself. LOL

It took a bit longer to get this one because I refused to drop the money on one without a coilpack bracket along with it. Definitely worth the ease of install and, because I'm running SD, I welded a plate to the back of the plenum and tapped it for a 3.5BAR MAP and welded the EGR port closed.

After powder.

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Installed.

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:dsm:
 
No but I can walk out in the a.m. and take one. It's literally a 1/4" aluminum plate welded to the back of the plenum, just under the AFPR in the picture you can see the MAP, and then drilled and tapped to 1/8"NPT threads.

:dsm:
 
No but I can walk out in the a.m. and take one. It's literally a 1/4" aluminum plate welded to the back of the plenum, just under the AFPR in the picture you can see the MAP, and then drilled and tapped to 1/8"NPT threads.

:dsm:

I'd appreciate if you would take that pic and post it. If I'm not mistaken there isn't a pic in this entire thread showing such a thing and being that we both are on speed density we obviously need to run a MDP. I was just going to T it into a vacuum source and let it hang but would like to see a more cleaner look.
 
gofer you have any pics of the welded plate for the MDP sensor?

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:dsm:
 
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To all of the guys that are running the EVO III intake.

Have any of you had any running issues afterwards? just checking. I had gotten an EVO III manifold from someone on tuners in Asia. I sent it Curt Brown Racing and he did some porting/polishing, including boring the throttle body opening to 68mm for me to use a larger throttle body. I was going to use a brand new Skunk 2 68mm EVO throttle body, but found after buying it that it uses different ISC and TPS sensors. I contacted Steve at Throttlebodys.Com and got a 3KGT VR4 throttle body that was bored to 63 mm plus modding the shaft to half. I had a minor :( incident and needed to replace my entire clutch setup....so while that car was in the shop for that, I had them install the IM and TB. Now the car runs very lean and I can't see why. They told me that they pressure tested the entire intake system and there are no leaks. I see no difference in the vacuum readings from before to now 12 inches of vacuum at idle (HKS 272/272) EGTs are now 1050 at idle and used to be at 950. The vacuum port at the end of the manifold is feeding the AFPR and MAP sensor for the Vac/Boost gauge. The blowoff valve has it's own feed. and the MDP sensor is fed from it's own port through a JM Fab adaptor. This is driving me crazy and with this cold weather in NJ it's too cold to experiment....no garage. My profile listing is correct.

Thanks
 
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Don't take it for granted that what they told you is true, if it's trying to idle lean you've got a vacuum leak around the throttle body or intake manifold.

I currently don't have an air compressor but I still do my own BLT's. Just buy or build a tester and drive to the nearest gas station air compressor, usually it's around back for people to fill up their tires. Pop the hood and get everything ready to BLT, once you're done put in some change and give it a quick test to see if it's pissing air anywhere.

:dsm:
 
Don't take it for granted that what they told you is true, if it's trying to idle lean you've got a vacuum leak around the throttle body or intake manifold.

I currently don't have an air compressor but I still do my own BLT's. Just buy or build a tester and drive to the nearest gas station air compressor, usually it's around back for people to fill up their tires. Pop the hood and get everything ready to BLT, once you're done put in some change and give it a quick test to see if it's pissing air anywhere.

:dsm:

Thanks, that is true and I do appreciate your response. On doing a BLT, I have to admit to having had some issues on that. I hate to ask a newbie question, but, for sake of learning, I always seem to not be able to get them to work. No one ever mentions, but I'm now going to assume the following....the engine must be brought to TDC on cylinder 1 so that ALL of the valves are closed? Every time I tried to do the test, I have air coming out of everywhere! The tailpipe, the valve cover, etc. I was just looking at a video on YouTube by a guy going by the name of jafromobile and he does a BLT and the pressure just holds for almost 20-30 minutes, so I'm going to expect that is what I should have happening. Again, thanks and I'll post the results.
 
If there's air leaking into your valve cover then your PCV valve is bad and, if this is the case, that shop is full of it and hasn't done a BLT on that car. Never.

:dsm:

That was the last time I tried to do it. I'll get the parts and make a new tester this week/weekend and try it again. Am I correct in thinking that I want to have all of the valves closed? I would think that I would then pressurize some of the cylinders and if the cams are in the overlap position the air will just go out the tailpipe.?
 
If the intake valves are open the exhaust valves are close and vise-versa, you don't have to turn the motor to do a BLT. If the PCV is leaking by then pull the hose off the IM (coming from the valve cover) and cap it with a rubber plug.

:dsm:
 
Okay, got it now. Thanks for the information and advice. I will try to get to doing this weekend.
 
I am getting ready to put on my RVR intake this weekend. Since i couldnt get a coil pack bracket, it was decided to cut off the bracket mounting pegs, (and a couple of useless ones too) making the plenum smooth. The plan is to hide the coil pack and transistor to behind the block using a custom fabbed bracket made by my buddy. Its going to look nice without the MDP harness along with the coil pack and transistor out in the open. The last thing that was done, was the vacuum nipples were pulled out and welded shut. New vacuum sources were drilled and tapped in the back of the plenum for a cleaner look. Project should be all buttoned up by sunday.

Modified stock coil pack bracket:
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Finished product:
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I am getting ready to put on my RVR intake this weekend. Since i couldnt get a coil pack bracket, it was decided to cut off the bracket mounting pegs, (and a couple of useless ones too) making the plenum smooth. The plan is to hide the coil pack and transistor to behind the block using a custom fabbed bracket made by my buddy. Its going to look nice without the MDP harness along with the coil pack and transistor out in the open. The last thing that was done, was the vacuum nipples were pulled out and welded shut. New vacuum sources were drilled and tapped in the back of the plenum for a cleaner look. Project should be all buttoned up by sunday.

I just modified the the 2g coil pack and used it on my rvr.
 
I just modified the the 2g coil pack and used it on my rvr.

Yea this idea crossed my mind but i already started a mini wire tuck around the intake manifold area so it doesnt look so "busy"... Besides its crazy how much people pay for just the bracket by itself..
 
Here's a good question for everyone running this IM.....

What plug wires do you use?

I have an Evo IM sitting up in my attic just collecting dust for a little while...but I absolutely hate how the plug wires just stick out the top of it and have to bend towards the front of the car.....

I've seen pictures somewhere of plug wires with 90's on the end to connect to the coil pack.. But was wondering where they can be picked up....
 
Here is an old pic of my dsm engine bay (a lot has changed since then), but I still have my plug wires mounted the same way.

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I've seen pictures somewhere of plug wires with 90's on the end to connect to the coil pack.. But was wondering where they can be picked up....
I do agree, it's hard to clean up the engine bay because of the spark plug wire routing. I use Hotwires for a 4g63 but I route them over the top of the valve cover, through the runners of the IM, then back up on the other side of the fuel rail to the coils and zip tie them together.

You can call Magnecore and have them put 90* boots on the coil end of their plug as I know they do custom wire setups, not sure if it's worth the additional cost though.

:dsm:
 
Here is the manifold installed along with the wire tuck. So much cleaner now.
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I've seen pictures somewhere of plug wires with 90's on the end to connect to the coil pack.. But was wondering where they can be picked up....

As far as I've seen you cannot buy wires this way, Well you can but I don't think they will fit the 4g63 properly. Maybe a specific honda civic might but I think their spark plug side is much longer than ours.

I made my own. You can buy the boots and terminals for like 5 bucks on ebay.
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As for brackets, Before I noticed I had this bracket with my Intake Manifold (like an idiot) I was about to make a bracket just like the JMF one that mounts it in between the intake manifold and the AC Pump.
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If you could, order plug wires for the 95 Mitsubishi Evolution. You cannot do this at autozone or any place like that tho. You will need to do this on specific websites that deal with cars overseas.
 
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