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installed a boost gauge but not sure if I did it correctly

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pixelfuture

15+ Year Contributor
37
2
Jun 20, 2005
lawrence, Kansas
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When I turn the car on it sits at 10 vac then when i drop it into gear it goes to 15 vac. Not sure if that's normal?

i have removed the solinoid restricter so that did increase the psi. on the gauge it shows that full boost is at 12.5 psi. also not sure if thats right, but with the bcs mod i think it is.

2nd, i suck at wirring stuff, so i read one instruction guide that said to split and connect the black wire to the black wire in the b66 wireharness. and the green wire to a purple one that came with my gauge. so i did that. i didn't have an enclosed space so i went to a darker area, and saw the gauges were lighting up fine. except for the boost gauge, i couldn't tell. so i'll check when it geets dark. the problem is that there was a 3rd wire (a red one) that came with my gauge. i didn't kno what to do about it, so i just tapped it off and left it hang. is this the one i should ground?

oh and the monting tape is temporary. i need to find a better mount :coy:
 
ChicksDigBoost said:
The vacuum hose is routed correctly. Its Teed into the FPR vacuum? What are you ideling at?
yes it's teed into the fpr. i idle at 10 when i first start the car. but if ive been driving for a while then it sits at 15

i idle at about 500 rpm
 
also will even the slightest kink in the pressure tube affect it? ill do a boost leak check, but i'm pretty sure that's not it because i haven't noticed any accleration problems
 
pixelfuture said:
what should the vac be at?
It should be around 18-20 hg but make sure the gauge zeros out when the key is at "on" position. If the gauge checks out, boost leak test like suggested above would be the logically thing to do next.
 
oldman said:
It should be around 18-20 hg but make sure the gauge zeros out when the key is at "on" position. If the gauge checks out, boost leak test like suggested above would be the logically thing to do next.
ok cool. yea it did get down to 20 when my foot wasn't on the accelerator. i'm pretty sure it did zero out but i'll double check it.

it boosts at 12 to 13 so that should be about right?
 
HRNYHG said:
if you are running stock boost, that is right
ok, what about right when i start the car? should it go to 20hg? because mine goes to 13-14hg. in reverse it's at 15 to 16

when i had my foot of the throttle in 3rd or 4th it did drop to 20hg. full acceleration at 4th i was reacing 12.5 to 13psi
 
When I said 18-20 HG I meant at idle, not in gear. You definitely have problems if it idles at 14HG and the problem is most likely boost/vacuum leak, as long as the gauge is correctly calibrated.
 
oldman said:
When I said 18-20 HG I meant at idle, not in gear. You definitely have problems if it idles at 14HG and the problem is most likely boost/vacuum leak, as long as the gauge is correctly calibrated.
ok. maybe the hose isn't on securely enough. then i'll check for a boost leak. is it the same process and checking for a vaccum leak?
 
pixelfuture said:
ok. maybe the hose isn't on securely enough. then i'll check for a boost leak. is it the same process and checking for a vaccum leak?
In most cases vacuum leaks will show up during a intake pressure test.
 
Ok, I went back and tightened EVERYTHING. Fond that there were two kinks in the pressure tube so i cut the wire. Then I checked the electrical install. Turned the car on, and the gauge didn't even budge. Just stayed at zero and the lights didn't come on.

I went back and tripple checked it all. Still same problem. My guess is I bought a worthless gauge. :mad:
 
Don't forget to adjust for altitude. You lose about 1" per 1000 feet or so.

-M
 
I don't want to steal your post, but while we are waiting for the results of your boost leak test, I've got a question since I see oldman is reading this post :) When removing the 4 vac lines at the top of the TB, three originally ran down to the driver side of the intake manifold, do those 3 on the driver side need to be capped off or anything? I too am having vac at about 13 hg at idle of ~850-900, bought the stuff for boost leak tester at home depot yesterday and if the weather stays nice should be able to do it after work, any help is appreciated thanks!
 
pixelfuture said:
I went back and tripple checked it all. Still same problem. My guess is I bought a worthless gauge. :mad:
If this is a mechanical boost gauge, connect the gauge directly to the tee in the engine bay bypassing the hose which extends into the cockpit. If problem solved, the kinks you found was causing the problem and you just have to figure out the electrical wiring and replace the vacuum hose. If problem persists, go forward with that intake leak test, hell you should do one regularly as a maintenance item anyway. Of course, if you have access to another gauge, wouldn't hurt to rule out the gauge first.

When removing the 4 vac lines at the top of the TB, three originally ran down to the driver side of the intake manifold, do those 3 on the driver side need to be capped off or anything?
Please be more clear on where exactly do you mean, are you removing all the vacuum lines? I was trying to link you to the Taboo site but apparently Martin had not paid his domain fees, too bad that site was very helpful to the DSM community. Maybe someone has a different link to similar info.
 
Sorry if I wasn't clear, I'll break it down a bit, it was too early before :D

On the top of the TB there are 4 vacuum sources, each with a line. I removed all four lines, then ran a line between the first and second, then the third and fourth. Now on top of my TB I have 2 loops of hoses instead of 4 running out to different sources.

Three of the original lines that ran from the top vacuum sources on the TB went down to the drivers side of the intake manifold where there are three valves in a triangle formation. I was wondering that since now the lines have been removed from the top of the TB, and the vacuum taken care of there, is it necessary to do anything to where the other ends of the lines ran to, those 3 valves on the drivers side of the intake manifold. I'm not positive if they are actually on the manifold or come from the head, can't check at the moment because I am at work.

So the final question is, do I need to plug off the three valves that once ran to the TB, or are they fine being left alone.... as in, will them being left open cause any vacuum issues? Thanks! If I'm still leaving anything out let me know and I'll draw a diagram.
 
If you have already remove the hoses on the driver side as well then you can just leave those nipples alone, they are simply metal tubing mounted to the IM stay, the bracket under IM which secures the IM to the head. However, it wouldn't hurt to cap off both sides either in case if you decide to re-attach the vacuum hoses.
 
oldman said:
If you have already remove the hoses on the driver side as well then you can just leave those nipples alone, they are simply metal tubing mounted to the IM stay, the bracket under IM which secures the IM to the head. However, it wouldn't hurt to cap off both sides either in case if you decide to re-attach the vacuum hoses.

Ah ok, thank you very much sir that's the exact answer I was looking for :)
*EDIT* The charcoal canister is the black canister on the firewall between the battery and the IM correct? And that can be totally eliminated and wherever it connects to capped off? Already removed from intake, where else does it run, IM?
 
ColdAudio said:
The charcoal canister is the black canister on the firewall between the battery and the IM correct?
Yes.

And that can be totally eliminated and wherever it connects to capped off?
Yes.

Already removed from intake, where else does it run, IM?
Don't remember but it wouldn't be that hard to just follow the vacuum hoses.
 
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