I've been poking around for a little while and didn't see any Holset HX40 installs so Here is my gift to the community & Holset users. 
I do not accept responsibility for any damage/damages caused to your turbo or engine by anyone attempting this install
First you will need drain and feed lines. As per the Holset drain specs of 19mm ID i have found that ideally a -14AN would be perfect, but since those don't exist i went with -12AN, which is the closest to that ID without being too bulky to fit next to the compressor cover. You could choose to use a -16AN but that will require trimming of your compressor housing to fit the larger diameter fitting. in mine and others opinion on this, -12AN should suffice.
Oil Drain:
I bought my -12AN drain kit from here: Turbo Oil Lines and Accessories, T6/S400 Econo Turbo Oil Drain Kit, RPS-Oildrainkit-T6 | RacePartSolutions.com
If you decide you want SS braided lines here that is also:
Turbo Oil Lines and Accessories, T6/S400 Premium Turbo Oil Drain Kit, RPS-OildrainkitP-T6 | RacePartSolutions.com
I found that the T6/s400 kit works the best, comes with almost everything you need. You might find that the straight fittings provided in the push lock kit don't make a smooth transition so you might have to go with an angled fitting. i used a 30* off the turbo, and a 60* off the oil pan, although some find it best to use 45* fittings (ill get to this later)
For the fittings above You will need to select the STEEL WELD ON BUNG our oil pans are made of stamped steel.
for the sake of this write up, i used the black bradded hose and pushlock fittings.
(insert picture of fittings)
you will need to purchase screws for the drain flange, i believe m8x1.25 to thread those down, gasket provided works well.
Now, you don't HAVE to do this, but for the sake of oil transition i beveled down the oil drain AN fitting that sticks on the turbo so it sort of funnels down the drain, did the same with the weld on bung to the oil pan. Also make sure to weld shut the bolt holes where the stock flange bolted in to your oil pan turbo drain.
You will need to port the oil pan hole to the same ID as the lip of your weld in bung (roughly 18mm) make sure to repaint the outside of your pan if you had to do any grinding (which most welding requires for a clean bead) if you have bare metal on the inside of the pan, its not really that big of a deal cause there will be oil there.
Remove your oil pan and weld in the bung, TIG welding is the preferred method but you might have trouble welding the spot between the pan flange to the block, and where you are welding, a MIG can also be used.
( incert picture of thr welded bung in place in oil pan)
Mounting:
I found that using a DNP dsm flange manifold with the BEP .55AR housing works just fine for water pipe clearance, there was a slight dent but nothing major, it sort of dented itself as i tightened up the turbo to the manifold.
You will need to clock the hot side so the CHRA feed and drain are 100% vertical or with in reason depending on how your feed looks. Once you have clocked the hotside tighten the 6 bolts to the CHRA. Next you will need to clock your compressor cover to which ever angel best fits in your bay and this will also be different for each application. remove or loosen the snap ring on the back of the compressor cover to clock it with some snap ring pliers.
I was able to use the stock driver side fan in place on the passenger side, this might not be enough flow and is still uet to be tested. Slim fans are recommended.
This particular Holset HX40 does not require water lines so if you had waterlines on your previous turbo, you will need to find a way to block those off. i found a bolt with some coolant hose and JB weld did the trick. If your holset DOES have waterlines, please use that provision and do not bypass it. although it is a debated topic, the water provision in most turbos were put there for a reason.
Now on to your feed:
I bought the extreme psi -4AN feed with the Holset 12mm x 1.50 turbo fitting option selected which you can find here:
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
You will want to tap into the clean port of the OFH for a 92 ofh it is the top slanted plug next to the dummy light facing front of the car.
(show which port is the clean port)
I found that you MIGHT not need a restrictor with the drain instructions i am providing assuming your crank case pressure is with in spec; although it is still recommended to always check your oil pressure at the turbo inlet before finalizing your choice on weather to use restriction or not using this method:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ler/401033-confirming-oil-pressure-turbo.html
Now as i understand it has been sort of hard to find the exact oiling specs as per pressure for holsets so i will post that here also..
OIL PRESSURE SPECS You are wanting to see:
No less then 10psi idle
No more then 85psi cold start
No more then 72psi full load
No less then 30psi cruising.
The type of oil / weight is dependent on what your motor likes the turbo doesn't really care as long as it is getting enough lubrication at the pressures above, although i personally run Valvoline VR1 20W50.
Now that you have your turbo mounted up, lets talk about hooking up the oil drain and feed. the drain can be a little complicated. I had to mock it up a few times and cut it to find the proper hose length. My push lock fittings were a little long and clashed with each other not allowing hose in-between so i had to cut each fitting so there was only one barb left fit the hose in-between. (about 2 inches of hose) Zip tie or hose clamp the hose around the pushlock fitting. you are wanting a no more then 30* horizontal of a transition from turbo to oil pan. this means it should for the most part, be as vertical as possible. Fittings needed and hose length will vary depending on manifold type, and other mods specific to your dsm.
(picture of turbo fully mounted)
Turbo outlet:
I found that the V-band
If your roll stop gets in the way, by all
Means TRIM IT!
on my particular Holset didn't need to be ground down, although you can do that if you wish. i used a 2.5-3" 90 degree reducer coupler and just clamped on the back side of the V-band flange. It seals just fine.
(insert picture of viand flange and reducer)
now start up your DSM and have fun boosting your new holset!
PICTURES AND MEASUREMENTS TO COME:
please do not post here, this will become a tech article when finished, this article is also under STILL construction. thanks.
PM Me if you find any information needing to be added or changed.
If this article helped you in anyway, i would appreciate positive rep points.
Thanks
-Kyle Henny
I do not accept responsibility for any damage/damages caused to your turbo or engine by anyone attempting this install
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
First you will need drain and feed lines. As per the Holset drain specs of 19mm ID i have found that ideally a -14AN would be perfect, but since those don't exist i went with -12AN, which is the closest to that ID without being too bulky to fit next to the compressor cover. You could choose to use a -16AN but that will require trimming of your compressor housing to fit the larger diameter fitting. in mine and others opinion on this, -12AN should suffice.
Oil Drain:
I bought my -12AN drain kit from here: Turbo Oil Lines and Accessories, T6/S400 Econo Turbo Oil Drain Kit, RPS-Oildrainkit-T6 | RacePartSolutions.com
If you decide you want SS braided lines here that is also:
Turbo Oil Lines and Accessories, T6/S400 Premium Turbo Oil Drain Kit, RPS-OildrainkitP-T6 | RacePartSolutions.com
I found that the T6/s400 kit works the best, comes with almost everything you need. You might find that the straight fittings provided in the push lock kit don't make a smooth transition so you might have to go with an angled fitting. i used a 30* off the turbo, and a 60* off the oil pan, although some find it best to use 45* fittings (ill get to this later)
For the fittings above You will need to select the STEEL WELD ON BUNG our oil pans are made of stamped steel.
for the sake of this write up, i used the black bradded hose and pushlock fittings.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
(insert picture of fittings)
you will need to purchase screws for the drain flange, i believe m8x1.25 to thread those down, gasket provided works well.
Now, you don't HAVE to do this, but for the sake of oil transition i beveled down the oil drain AN fitting that sticks on the turbo so it sort of funnels down the drain, did the same with the weld on bung to the oil pan. Also make sure to weld shut the bolt holes where the stock flange bolted in to your oil pan turbo drain.
You will need to port the oil pan hole to the same ID as the lip of your weld in bung (roughly 18mm) make sure to repaint the outside of your pan if you had to do any grinding (which most welding requires for a clean bead) if you have bare metal on the inside of the pan, its not really that big of a deal cause there will be oil there.
Remove your oil pan and weld in the bung, TIG welding is the preferred method but you might have trouble welding the spot between the pan flange to the block, and where you are welding, a MIG can also be used.
( incert picture of thr welded bung in place in oil pan)
Mounting:
I found that using a DNP dsm flange manifold with the BEP .55AR housing works just fine for water pipe clearance, there was a slight dent but nothing major, it sort of dented itself as i tightened up the turbo to the manifold.
You will need to clock the hot side so the CHRA feed and drain are 100% vertical or with in reason depending on how your feed looks. Once you have clocked the hotside tighten the 6 bolts to the CHRA. Next you will need to clock your compressor cover to which ever angel best fits in your bay and this will also be different for each application. remove or loosen the snap ring on the back of the compressor cover to clock it with some snap ring pliers.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I was able to use the stock driver side fan in place on the passenger side, this might not be enough flow and is still uet to be tested. Slim fans are recommended.
This particular Holset HX40 does not require water lines so if you had waterlines on your previous turbo, you will need to find a way to block those off. i found a bolt with some coolant hose and JB weld did the trick. If your holset DOES have waterlines, please use that provision and do not bypass it. although it is a debated topic, the water provision in most turbos were put there for a reason.
Now on to your feed:
I bought the extreme psi -4AN feed with the Holset 12mm x 1.50 turbo fitting option selected which you can find here:
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
You will want to tap into the clean port of the OFH for a 92 ofh it is the top slanted plug next to the dummy light facing front of the car.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
(show which port is the clean port)
I found that you MIGHT not need a restrictor with the drain instructions i am providing assuming your crank case pressure is with in spec; although it is still recommended to always check your oil pressure at the turbo inlet before finalizing your choice on weather to use restriction or not using this method:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ler/401033-confirming-oil-pressure-turbo.html
Now as i understand it has been sort of hard to find the exact oiling specs as per pressure for holsets so i will post that here also..
OIL PRESSURE SPECS You are wanting to see:
No less then 10psi idle
No more then 85psi cold start
No more then 72psi full load
No less then 30psi cruising.
The type of oil / weight is dependent on what your motor likes the turbo doesn't really care as long as it is getting enough lubrication at the pressures above, although i personally run Valvoline VR1 20W50.
Now that you have your turbo mounted up, lets talk about hooking up the oil drain and feed. the drain can be a little complicated. I had to mock it up a few times and cut it to find the proper hose length. My push lock fittings were a little long and clashed with each other not allowing hose in-between so i had to cut each fitting so there was only one barb left fit the hose in-between. (about 2 inches of hose) Zip tie or hose clamp the hose around the pushlock fitting. you are wanting a no more then 30* horizontal of a transition from turbo to oil pan. this means it should for the most part, be as vertical as possible. Fittings needed and hose length will vary depending on manifold type, and other mods specific to your dsm.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
(picture of turbo fully mounted)
Turbo outlet:
I found that the V-band
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If your roll stop gets in the way, by all
Means TRIM IT!
on my particular Holset didn't need to be ground down, although you can do that if you wish. i used a 2.5-3" 90 degree reducer coupler and just clamped on the back side of the V-band flange. It seals just fine.
(insert picture of viand flange and reducer)
now start up your DSM and have fun boosting your new holset!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
PICTURES AND MEASUREMENTS TO COME:
please do not post here, this will become a tech article when finished, this article is also under STILL construction. thanks.
PM Me if you find any information needing to be added or changed.
If this article helped you in anyway, i would appreciate positive rep points.
Thanks
-Kyle Henny
Last edited by a moderator:
