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Head Gasket??

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Sterkcid

Sterkcid

Probationary Member
18
0
Feb 14, 2013
Simpsonville, South_Carolina
On my way home last night, and my car started running hot. Popped the hood and noticed that my radiator hose completely broke off. Had a new one shipped over night, but before I put it on I noticed this milky texture in the hoses. My guess is that I have a blown head gasket, but I wanted some second opinions.
 

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I thought you just meant you blew a radiator hose at first. Looks like the upper radiator neck rusted and broke.

Milky look to coolant is often a sign of contamination.

Are there any signs of coolant in the oil?
Does the engine use coolant or oil?

You can purchase (and possibly rent) coolant test kits from auto parts store that will test for oil and combustion gases in your coolant system.
 
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VR4 Kev said:
I thought you just meant you blew a radiator hose at first. Looks like the upper radiator neck rusted and broke.

Milky look to coolant is often a sign of contamination.

Are there any signs of coolant in the oil?
Does the engine use coolant or oil?

You can purchase (and possibly rent) coolant test kits from auto parts store that will test for oil and combustion gases in your coolant system.
Click to expand...

There are not any signs of coolant in the oil. The engine does not seem to use oil or coolant. I noticed the milky texture after I removed the radiator. It was in the pipes and dropping from the bottom of the radiator.
 
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I might be missing it but I do not see it in these pics. Can you take some more and post? Is there oil in the coolant overflow jug? Where you overheating before the hose game off? There are test for the headgasket you can get however if you weren't over heating before the hose came off and there is no oil in the overflow jug or milky oil look, I would question why you think head gasket.
 
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In my opinion it doesn't look like a blown hg. I was driving home from work when my 1g started to over heat, I took a look and it turned out to be my upper radiator hose blew off like yours.
To play it safe, I'd still do a compression test.
 
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I think what you seen could be simply from coolant cleaning chemicals or something possibly as I don't see much that would indicate a hg issue.
I checked his car out before this happened myself. Overflow was clean and so was oil and coolant looked good. But that doesn't mean the car never had the issue in its lifetime. It could simply have happened b4 and been fixed but the coolant system was never cleaned.
 
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It isnt very clear in the pictures I posted.. Sorry. When I removed the radiator it was clear that there was something wrong. The car was not running hot before the radiator hose came off, but I rigged it back on and filled the overflow up so I could get it home and work on it. About 30 seconds away from the house the temp shot up and ran extremely hot. I coasted into the driveway and immediatly shut the car off. Left it in my lower driveway and removed the radiator the following day. Thats when I noticed the milky texture. It looked familiar because I had a gasket blow in one of my trucks before but the texture was in the oil and not the coolant. I havent noticed anything in the oil, but today I noticed some oil in coolant. Thats why I think its a hg. I havent noticed a huge drop in oil or coolant, but I do keep an eye on it.

Also, today I started the car and it would idle at about 2000 rpm then drop to 1500 then right back up to 2000. It did this for awhile until I drove it to work. When I got to work it idled at 800 and stayed there.

This weekend I plan on changing the timing bet, belt tensioner, belt tensioner pully, belt idler pully, and the belt tensioner arm. I will probably change the water pump too.

I also noticed my radio acting funny in idle.Once I cut the lights and A/C off the radio was fine. She struggled starting back up two hours later. This leads me to believe the the alternator is going. Ideas?
 
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With oil in the coolant, but not coolant in the oil. That means you have a high pressure oil leak in to low pressure coolant. Check the oil cooler, it seems from time to time they get crushed and leak internally.

Also It does sound like the alt is weak and on it's way out.
 
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So you replaced your coolant and there is already oil in it or at least what seems to be oil?
Lmk if you need a hand with the timing job.
Whats up with the radio? With your alt showing 14.5-15v the other day I doubt its failed that quickly.
 
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BogusSVO said:
With oil in the coolant, but not coolant in the oil. That means you have a high pressure oil leak in to low pressure coolant. Check the oil cooler, it seems from time to time they get crushed and leak internally.

Also It does sound like the alt is weak and on it's way out.
Click to expand...

Im going to guess id rather have that over a hg? I the oil everyday before I drive and I havent noticed anything besides oil in either the top or on the dipstick. What would be a good hint of cantamination? Ill use the search engine to find out how to check the oil cooler. What could I do to prevent it from getting crushed next time?

MJcanada said:
So you replaced your coolant and there is already oil in it or at least what seems to be oil?
Lmk if you need a hand with the timing job.
Whats up with the radio? With your alt showing 14.5-15v the other day I doubt its failed that quickly.
Click to expand...

I replaced the radiator with just a OEM one if thats what you are asking. Im atleast 95% positive that it is oil, but i could be wrong.

Im going to purchase all the parts for the timing job but I will be paying someone else to install it for me. After spending 2 hours researching that job I came to the conclusion that I am not mechanically inclined enough for that job yet. Yes, I would rather do it myself to keep from paying labor but this car is now my daily, and I just need it mechanically sound for the time being.

Now the radio... I was in the parking lot at Gvl Tech. I had the lights still on because I just got there, and the heat blowing because it was cold AF outside. The radio cut off, and the time started to flicker on and off rapidly. I tried turning back on and it just looked at me like I was stupid. I then cut off the head and head light and it came on. After class (two hours later) she really struggled turning back on. That was when she then started idling at 2000 and dropping to 1500 then back up to 2000. At first I thought it was because she was cold but it made more since with what happened earlier that it was the alternator.

Since the day I bought this car, if its not one thing its another. Im not complaining, but I just didnt expect it to happen this fast. Thats life though.
 
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Since the day I bought this car, if its not one thing its another. Im not complaining, but I just didnt expect it to happen this fast. Thats life though.
Click to expand...

No it's a dsm LOL.

Alternator could have been soaked when upper hose blew off FYI.
 
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UPDATE:I had a friend come by and pick up the eclipse today at work. 1 1/2 hours later i get a call from him saying that the cyl head needs replacing, timing belt, and that the turbo is not working like it should (I knew it wasnt acting right... I just never put much thought into it and turned the boost down). I honestly have no clue what to do.. I know the timing belt HAS to be done because if it goes, the engine goes along with it. As for the cyl head I dont know if I should go with OEM or Aftermarket.

He said he would charge $800. Next time he calls I am going to clarify what all that "$800" will include.
 
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OEM or aftermarket on the head? Do you mean going to the dealership and trying to buy a new head?!?!?!

Check with the supporting vendors here, I am sure one of them can build you a head to fit your needs.
 
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BogusSVO said:
OEM or aftermarket on the head? Do you mean going to the dealership and trying to buy a new head?!?!?!

Check with the supporting vendors here, I am sure one of them can build you a head to fit your needs.
Click to expand...

I guess a better way to phrase the question is: What would y'all recommend? I have a goal of 350-400 hp. Of course, I am doing maintenance first. Im not wanting something that will mess up after the maintence is complete.

BogusSVO said:
OEM or aftermarket on the head? Do you mean going to the dealership and trying to buy a new head?!?!?!

Check with the supporting vendors here, I am sure one of them can build you a head to fit your needs.
Click to expand...

DSM Race Heads - DSMtuners.com
That is what you are talking about, correct?
 
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Yep that a good point to start!

:thumb: Good link! I have not seen that before... But I do not hunt through the vendor section much.

1995silvergst said:
Also 800 sounds low unless this is for labor only but then again avg shop rate here is 98/hr
Click to expand...

$800 has to be the labor. I just can not see that being parts and labor.

A decent used turbo is around $200-300?
A reman head is about $400
Then add a good timing belt set up $200 +
Gaskets another $75
 
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