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brandonstumpf

Probationary Member
6
0
Jul 8, 2011
plesantville, Pennsylvania
i am having problems with my 1999 eclipse gst with it having no power when you press gas pedal.... i have replaced spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter.......... check engine light is on and i dont have obd 2 computer...... buddy is bring me a gauge to do boost test but i was wondering what you think is wrong, and i am kinda new at this so bare with me
 
When you have a concern of that nature, sometimes we overthink it, did you check to see if your intercooler piping is still intact, you may have blown a pipe, if so, check your turbo and make sure it is still free spool with no shaft play or oil leaks..
 
no it moves just no power, wont go past 2 grand n really slow rev..... i have checked my oil line for turbo and its good but ill take it apart and see if there is shaft play...... and piping is all tight

it is weird too that i took off mass air flow sensor and car still started and idled..... its running real rich the spark plugs i put in honestly like 3 hours ago are black at bottom
 
no it moves just no power, wont go past 2 grand n really slow rev..... i have checked my oil line for turbo and its good but ill take it apart and see if there is shaft play...... and piping is all tight

it is weird too that i took off mass air flow sensor and car still started and idled..... its running real rich the spark plugs i put in honestly like 3 hours ago are black at bottom

Ok dude, do us all a favor, take a picture of under your hood, and post it on here... I get the feeling your BOV is free vented :confused:
 
If you are still running you stock stock i/c piping check for any cracks, boost leaks can cause havoc, and a lot of times they are unknown, when you unhook your mass air flow sensor, your ecu goes into default so the car will still run, guarantee you have codes for that in your ecu, that plastic i/c piping loves to crack...(got one here-LOL)
 
Keeping in my mind, with your maf unhooked, your car is going to run rich, it is a ecu fail safe since it does not know how much air is going into your engine. If there is a boost leak the maf being in front of the turbo is going to read the air that is supposed to be entering your engine, which of course is not..
 
TPS, MAF, CAS/CPS can cause this plus a 1000 other things.

Any CEL's that would be the first place to start if you are new to DSM's/auto repair.

Autozone/Advanced Autoparts have a free CEL check.
 
ya i was thinking it was the tps... i am new to turbo dsm i have had 4 nt

here those pictures
 

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I'm having the same problem on my 95 talon tsi. I check my intercooler piping and the couplings seem ok the intercooler itself has a pool of oil in it, i'm going to make a boost leak kit tomorrow. Thanks for the help
 
I'm having the same problem on my 95 talon tsi. I check my intercooler piping and the couplings seem ok the intercooler itself has a pool of oil in it, i'm going to make a boost leak kit tomorrow. Thanks for the help

if theres oil in the intercooler you probably have a leak somewhere. check inside your turbo to see if theres oil there. if it is you have bad turbo seals and you need to rebuild it or buy a new one. are you blowing out a lot of smoke when you drive?
 
Start the car and pull the spark plug wires one by one to see if there's a drop in RPM, you might be running on 2 cylinders. If that's the case your Ignition control module (also known as transistor) is fried.
 
I don't know the mileage on the turbo as I bought the car running the way it is for $1000 can't really beat it, I'll pull the plugs and check also my vac lines have been bypassed to. I found a real good price on a 6 bolt, I don't want to spend money unnecessarily. Thanks for all of your suggestions

It does the same thing whether the maf is plugged in or not
 
It takes quite a bit of knowledge on cars, let alone DSM's, to properly diagnose running issues. I think your best bet is to bring it to a certified garage and have the ecu scanned for codes (check engine light - CEL) and start narrowing down the problem by replacing sensors it calls for. You should also have a compression test done, leak down test if there's a suspected leak in the cylinders, check the ignition system, intake and exhaust, the list goes on brother. What you're describing really sounds like it could be 100 different things, and sometimes, a combination of problems result in your "loss of power". I would pay close attention to any mechanic helping you diagnose the problem/s so that you LEARN more and more about your car.

In reality, it sounds like you bought a $1000 basket case. BUT, with the right owner who is a true DSM enthusiast, can breathe life back into this car and it could turn into the BEST $1000 purchase you ever made! Get the right servicing/maintenance done and get back to par, before you start modifying it and end up blowing up the motor, or worse, yourself.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

- DOHCTA
 
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