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fp black on e98

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Yeah there is a point where you quit making power with ethanol. You can add timing but if you're not gaining power then there's no point you are at the limit even without knock. The ethanol is great for reducing knock. That sound right? From what I've seen everyone's car likes different afrs.
 
My friends black is around 650 at 37psi right now. Only 8:1 motor tho. If you're at max flow you're at max flow and only gonna find gains in the tune via fuel and timing adjustments or cam timing adjustments. So, finish the tune and hit the track. Either way, congrats breaking the 600 mark and enjoy!
 
My friends black is around 650 at 37psi right now. Only 8:1 motor tho. If you're at max flow you're at max flow and only gonna find gains in the tune via fuel and timing adjustments or cam timing adjustments. So, finish the tune and hit the track. Either way, congrats breaking the 600 mark and enjoy!

I'm really surprised someone is pushing a JB DSM Flanged turbo that high boost psi. Must be a real efficient setup.
 
Turn off your knock sensor and look at the plugs. If you have a good WB you can see the knock in your WB signal.

I would also suspect that if you have real detonation witout timing being pulled EGT would drop, but I'm not sure.

On the dyno you can also see detonation as a puffs of smoke in the exhaust during a pull.

The point of all this is you can't rely on just a wideband and a ks to tune a car. You have to look at everything and have a feel for what's right. The wideband is only looking for an oxygen concentration in the exhaust....abnormal combusiton, pressure, and temperature all effect it's reading.

Honestly I think I could tune an E85 car by the smell. When it's right and making power it's got a particular smell. On a similar note turbo alcohol tractor pull guys look for the stack to light up like a torch at the end when they lift. If the stack lights up like a torch, the tuneup is pretty close. This is on a 6-10L motor with well over 100psi of boost making 3500+hp. And it's mechanically injected...
 
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You guys are all wrong in what these engines should be wanting and how to go about tuning them. Lambda is the correct way. Followed by egt's than a gasoline corrected scale after that. You all are asking for trouble trying to run as lean as you are and thinking the knock sensor is all you need to worry about.

With that said, I tune off of four individual egt's in my own car with the wideband as areference.
 
Turn off your knock sensor and look at the plugs. If you have a good WB you can see the knock in your WB signal.

I would also suspect that if you have real detonation witout timing being pulled EGT would drop, but I'm not sure.

On the dyno you can also see detonation as a puffs of smoke in the exhaust during a pull.

The point of all this is you can't rely on just a wideband and a ks to tune a car. You have to look at everything and have a feel for what's right. The wideband is only looking for an oxygen concentration in the exhaust....abnormal combusiton, pressure, and temperature all effect it's reading.

Honestly I think I could tune an E85 car by the smell. When it's right and making power it's got a particular smell. On a similar note turbo alcohol tractor pull guys look for the stack to light up like a torch at the end when they lift. If the stack lights up like a torch, the tuneup is pretty close. This is on a 6-10L motor with well over 100psi of boost making 3500+hp. And it's mechanically injected...

We actually done this. I was getting spark blow out with bpr7es @.022. Switched to a br7es @.020 and all was good. We turned my knock sensor off for a pull cuz he said he thought it wasn't real knock. Added timing till it quit making power wich was only a few more degrees. I'll check what timing was at later today.
Right now I'm working on adjusting my boost in 1st and 2nd. Spins like crazy and 3rd bogs and falls completely out of boost. I think I'm not running 2nd out far enough. Any suggestions?
 
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I have that happen in my AWD, if it spins in first and I upshift before the car has caught up to wheel speed it will pull it under the turbo.

As far as timing and knock sensor goes, my car always went the fastest with it showing just a couple counts of knock here and there.
 
We actually done this. I was getting spark blow out with bpr7es @.022. Switched to a br7es @.020 and all was good. We turned my knock sensor off for a pull cuz he said he thought it wasn't real knock. Added timing till it quit making power wich was only a few more degrees. I'll check what timing was at later today.
Right now I'm working on adjusting my boost in 1st and 2nd. Spins like crazy and 3rd bogs and falls completely out of boost. I think I'm not running 2nd out far enough. Any suggestions?
my suggestion is bias ply slicks. that and ECMLink boost by gear with the ingersol rand 3 port boost solenoid.
 
We actually done this. I was getting spark blow out with bpr7es @.022. Switched to a br7es @.020 and all was good. We turned my knock sensor off for a pull cuz he said he thought it wasn't real knock. Added timing till it quit making power wich was only a few more degrees. I'll check what timing was at later today.
Right now I'm working on adjusting my boost in 1st and 2nd. Spins like crazy and 3rd bogs and falls completely out of boost. I think I'm not running 2nd out far enough. Any suggestions?

I'm very interested in your timing tables as we have very similar setups.
 
That's about your best bet being FWD. I have traction issues and I'm AWD. Either I need to learn how to slip the clutch better or my Hoosier R6 aren't cutting it and I'd need to switch to a bias ply also.
 
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