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EVO3 16g dyno results

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Soon as I'm done swapping turbo's on my STi, I'll be back on track. No DSMer has a right to complain about installing a turbo after witnessing an STi turbo install:D The STi is a nightmare. The thought of changing spark plugs or cams on this thing gives me chills. Freaking 7 bolts holding the turbine housing heatshield in place. Oil drain return removal nearly took forever due to its hyper cramped position....

Not to go off topic but I completely agree with you. IMO DSM's are actually pretty easy cars to work on. And we don't have to remove the intake manifold just to change a spark plug.:)
 
Pboglio, I have been reading this thread since the begining and keeping up on the building up of your car for a long time. I'm building a 400+whp Evo III car as well all my specs are in my profile, the olny changes will be SD with ECMlink and bigger injectors. I'm trying to max out my setup and what you have been saying about intake pipes and j-pipes has really gotten my attention. I was wondering what design you are planning for your intake? For now I have a FP 4" intake pipe with that horrible coupler, and I plan on making a transition from 4"to 2.5" out of aluminum to help with better flow. What program are you using to test flow for each design? Will your new j-pipe design be something that would still bolt up or be welded on? How much are you planning on enlarging the compressor outlet? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for your hard work on progressing the Evo III platform.:thumb:
 
Pboglio, I have been reading this thread since the begining and keeping up on the building up of your car for a long time. I'm building a 400+whp Evo III car as well all my specs are in my profile, the olny changes will be SD with ECMlink and bigger injectors. I'm trying to max out my setup and what you have been saying about intake pipes and j-pipes has really gotten my attention. I was wondering what design you are planning for your intake? For now I have a FP 4" intake pipe with that horrible coupler, and I plan on making a transition from 4"to 2.5" out of aluminum to help with better flow. What program are you using to test flow for each design? Will your new j-pipe design be something that would still bolt up or be welded on? How much are you planning on enlarging the compressor outlet? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for your hard work on progressing the Evo III platform.:thumb:

Thanks. I think you can hit 400 w.h.p. without a huge effort. I'm using Solidworks CFD software which is awesome. J-pipe is designed 2.5" in diameter with the transition machined from billet aluminum and welded to the 2.5" tubing for a bolt-on part. Compressor outlet would be about 1.68" for a good reliable seal, though 1.75" is possible. Not rocket science, but I spent a week optimizing on the CFD software to get every psi out of it.

Compressor intake pipe I have a design that is about 99.5% equal to a straight 4" tube. Basically a 4" to 2.25" continuous cone with 2x 45* bends due to packaging constraints. Centering the pipe leading to the compressor inlet helps as well, unlike the FP coupler and Injen intake which offsets the inlet against one wall. Porting the compressor inlet is worthless, since the EVOIII 16g already has a chamfered lip leading into the compressor and opening up the passage diameter buys almost nothing anyway. Mitsubishi knew where and how much to size the inlet to avoid flow losses. This was one area I thought would be huge gains but was almost zero on the CFD.
 
Thanks for answering all my questions it was very informative. I have just a few other questions. How long will the transition be for your intake pipe? I figure with a 30 degree taper the transition will be about 3.27" long. What degree of taper are you planing on using to optimize flow? I would love to see some of your CFD analysis as well. Thanks again for your help.
 
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A 30* taper angle sounds fine but I "believe" my magic angle was lower than that, gotta look up the CFD files. I simply made a continous 4"-2.25" cone from just after the MAF location to the compressor inlet, so maybe 15" transition length. Reason is room gets tight with 4", and its completely overkill once the pipe starts making its turn down into the compressor inlet. Since I'm studying wet carbon fiber layups, I can pretty much go free form on the shape. I'll look up some screen shots and post them up when I get the chance.
 
Non-dsm related, but here goes. Finally got my FP 68HTA turbo installed in my STi with a manual boost controller, drop in K&N, and an up-pipe. The one big thing I noticed is this baby has some lag compared to the VF39, 14.7 psi at 3900 rpms in 3rd gear. Power ain't bad but man do you have to flat foot the throttle to get boost to come on. It is quite a lethargic turbo at the moment. The Sti is currently running in limp mode with what I suspect to be (2x) clogged catalytic converters from the oil and aluminum powder residue off the failed stock turbo. I've cranked my boost controller to what would be huge boost and preloaded the wastegate acxtuator a good hefty amount, and the boost can't make it past 18 psi regardless. The fact the stock VF39 would boost creep way past 22 psi on the same setup at will gets me thinking something is wrong.

Taking into consideration all that, and the fact I'm running a deadstock intake box, stock turboback exhaust system, and a pathetically weak 9 lb wastegate spring that is blowing open, its not too bad. There is some potential but it won't be anywhere near what the GSX can do, DSMer's are spoiled in that regard.
 
Do you have any tuning software for the sti? There are ways around decreasing lag such as pulling timing prior to spool up or enriching the mixture during spool. I think if you just upgraded your down pipe and fixed the cats with a higher pressure wg spring and you would be set.

Did the 68hta not come with a waste gate actuator?
 
No, bone stock ECU, but it'll be rocking the "tantrix" flash software or whatever they call it. Its on my list of mods:D Car has its issues, but nailing them one by one is what I'm good at and being aware what they are is key. Got the turbo on, which was the big pain in the rear.
 
Hey pboglio, I see you live in Palos. Let me know if you ever need a hand. I have a legacy GT and an 2G so we have very similar cars in that respect.
 
Blackrose,

Sounds good, maybe we can meet up for a beer and complain about our Subarus:D

DSMnoobsause,

Glad I can help. Lately I've been quiet as my priorities have shifted, but the GSX is sitting there waiting for the parts to go on.
 
There is going to be some sort of car meet going on at the best buy in Tinley on the 14th @ 8pm if your interested.
 
I like those numbers too, next build im going with some ugraded cams along with link. Going to the dyno next year with some upgrades to see where im at.
 
Thats great! Hope you reach the 400hp mark. I am aiming for that as well. We will see in about three weeks if I can get it or not with my evo III 16g.
 
I have been keeping an eye on this as well. I still have the long route IC piping and stock actuator which is creeping to 25psi.

Mods are in my profile. Definitely looking to do a short route and reclock the compressor housing.

from the logs in evoscan (i am running an evo 8 ecu) virtual dyno says i am making 316whp and 256wtq. I am switching out to the evo 8 knock sensor as i think the older one is creating some phantom knock and pulling timnig hence the low torque
 
well here is a comparison run of my previous log on the evo 3 knock sensor to tonights log with the evo 8 knock sensor.

Only other mods were a modified actuator to try and help with the creep which it did held 23psi steady and an Evo 8 MAF. No ignition or fuel maps were altered.

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Next step is venting the wastegate to atmosphere and locating another MAP sensor and an IAT to log boost and ....IAT's
 
That intake pipe sounds like exactly what I was planning on making. Lacking a 4" pipe for molding, I'll probably run 3" bends and put a bell mount shape out to 4" to fit my air filter on the end. I find that fiberglass holds up just fine
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h309/tkelly27/IMG_1017.jpg?t=1298871099

Do you think the bolt on J pipe will be better than welding to the end of the compressor outlet? Will the outlet need to be ported regardless?

Starting to make more sense how to make big power out of these little turbos. Fun fun.
 
Any updates or pictures of that inlet pipe and J-pipe Pboglio ?
 
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