- Thread starter
- #26
90laserRSfwd
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,412
- 84
- Mar 5, 2007
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Elizabethtown,
Pennsylvania
Sorry. I meant street driven. Not necessarily a daily driver..
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Just don't expect the fwd tranny to hold a 1000whp. I am trying some different things with the new one I am building. I will post some pics of the isotropic gears tomorrow they look pretty! I am sending the 3rd gear cluster shaft alone with 3rd and 4th gear to be wpc treated on top of the rem. I spent a lot of hours deburring the gears before dropping them off to be rem finished. we shall see how it turns out. I may take a stab at the record again myself when tranny is complete.I'm thankful for you more experienced guys chiming in on my thread. I'm starting to think maybe THE reason there aren't really HIGH horsepower FWD DSM's is because of the factory AWD option. In the Honda world, FWD is the only option (for the most part), hence the handful's of HIGH power cars in there camp.
IF (and this is a big if), I were to pursue the FWD dyno record, what "DO's or DON'Ts" would you guys offer up? (I imagine avoiding the FWD trans completely would be listed). For an example, there's no reason to bother with any injector other then 1,600+cc sized injectors I would also assume.
OP you shall know the truth and the truth shall set you free! Well said Tim. I am looking at the moment into the twin disk for fwd but with some form of street disk friction material does this even exist? Okay just went to tims site and yes they exist my next purchase. Tim what' the life expectancy of the street material considering I drive my car all the time. Thanks.Best advice if you think you are going to try and break records? Have an enormous amount of disposable income. Even with doing everything yourself labor/fab/repair/rebuilding, you still have the cost of services, parts, consumables, and replacement parts. I think I am on around 28 or 29 race transmissions in my car now over 14 years. If you want to calculate that single replacement part, its a metric ton of cash. Being that the car has been above 500awhp since 2003/2004, thats a long time of high power. After 500awhp, you start breaking ALOT of things. Even then, 500FWHP is absolutely nuts to drive on the street; try driving something like mine in FWD on the street and its just ridiculous; my LOWEST boost level does a burnout in ANY gear at any speed. Yeah, 5th gear burnouts on R-compounds or Slicks with zero effort.
Also, with that said, the parts for these cars (transmission parts, etc.) are getting harder and harder to find as well as there are a large amount of completely discontinued parts that are no longer available new, so either stockpile a metric sh**ton of parts, or be smart and keep your power levels down. These transmissions were never designed to sustain this kind of power for an extended period of time. If you want the most durability out of a FWD, then I would suggest doing a Quaife or KAAZ LSD front diff in an AWD case with a PPG gearset and the trans converted to FWD. Couple that with a twin disk and you will have a good setup. If you are intending on sticking with a FWD case/gearset, then you better damn well have a Quaife front LSD differential, and a faceplated OEM gearset with shotpeening and REM (or WPC, or Cryo), and a modified Quarter Master Gear Drive twin disk with FWD street twin flywheel.
If you even think that you have a budget, then you probably shouldn't do it. This stuff is not cheap.
Hmmm let's see built transmission 3k, clutch kit, flywheel, polyurethane bushings, coilovers, motor mounts, there's another 3k+. And that's not even the good shit. Probably 6+k in a built long block. Oh an ets short route front mount? Intake? Down pipe? Exhaust, 02 housing, turbo, exhaust manifold, catch can, ss lines, fittings, tuning setup, injectors, fuel pump or pumps, smim, throttle body, wastegate, bov, radiator, fans, slicks, gauges. Can go on and on. Sure I'm over kill for 600 but my turbo is my limiting factor. You can make 600 much cheaper and less reliable but then when you want more you gotta buy parts again.So, basically, PPG dogbox set with a twin disc or just go auto? I saw someone said they are $25,000 into there car and they are only hoping for 600hp. What did you buy that you have 25k into your car? That sounds like a really high amount of money to make 600hp..
You are right I can't tell you how many young cats locally come to me gun-hoe about getting into the dsm game. One guy found a car, pull the engine and brought it to me and wanted to build the engine making decent power and ended his statement by saying just build it like your engine. After completing the head and the stuff that goes into it he ran out of money and gave up, had me to sell the car and all his parts. I knocked off my labor and gave him the difference and kept the head. I have another buddy that went out and purchased a 1g, broke the car down , bought all kinds of goodies, pistons , rods , cams sent the head to bogus and he also ran out of money after paying almost a 1000 dollars just for head machining and his car has been sitting is pieces for almost 3yrs. I asked him the other day what are you going to do with the dsm and its stuff he said sell, I then asked him what are you looking to get for it his replay what he has in it almost 5000.00 and he was just getting started, I told him its going to continue sitting for a while. I really do feel for those who can't do most of what needs to be done to these cars yourself that's the only way to really make it work without going too deep into the pockets.Dude, you think $25K is alot, you are on drugs. That is a drop in the bucket to modding and maintaining this kind of power.
When you build a complete car, you have a serious wad of cash going into it with quality parts.
I have about $16,000 in simply drive line on my car (axles, transmission, transfer case, rear end, differentials, drive shafts, clutch, hub assemblies), and that is part cost only, no labor, with none of the breakage costs even listed (add another $150K or so ).
If I wanted to build a 600HP car as cheap as possible to actually hit upper 9's/bottom 10's, I would likely go with a 2.0L Eagle/Ross 9:1 combo, stock 1G head with valve springs and 280* range cams, a SMIM, a FMIC, intank 255 w/ inline 255 pumps on 2200cc injectors for E85 or 1350cc on race gas, a GT4088R or GT3586HTA equivelant turbo and tubular manifold, intake/exhaust stuff, a set of light wheels and slicks, QM twin disk and a faceplated DSM ratio gearset with Evo 3 1st gear, welded center diff (if running a FWD, then an AWD case/gearset converted to FWD with a Quaife LSD front diff; if AWD an open front diff with welded center diff). You will get some quick times in if you cut all the fat out of the car. If you want it to last more than a season of beatdowns, then that's where the costs come into play with all the associated reliability parts.
After completing the head and the stuff that goes into it he ran out of money and gave up, had me to sell the car and all his parts. I knocked off my labor and gave him the difference and kept the head. I have another buddy that went out and purchased a 1g, broke the car down , bought all kinds of goodies, pistons , rods , cams sent the head to bogus and he also ran out of money after paying almost a 1000 dollars just for head machining and his car has been sitting is pieces for almost 3yrs.