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Broken Crankshaft Key, Anyone seen this before? (Pics)

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JB weld is not going to hold anything, its way too weak to do any good against the forces of an engine part, if it makes you feel better then go ahead, but when it comes down to push and shove the epoxy will just fall out. I would say that resonation in the crankshaft is whats causing the bolt to come loose, as the crank resonates and the threads in the crankshaft expand and contract along with the spinning of the crank, there are times that the stretch from the bolt is negated alowing the bolt to work its way out a little bit, the damage to the gear and keyway if from fretting that is happening over time rather than all at once, I dare say that if you pull some main bearings they may show some signs of fretting as well. You could use Loctite bearing and sleeve lock around the crankshaft to gear mating area, its a product thats made for that, regular Loctite isnt going to work other than on the threads due to it being anaerobic.
 
I am not saying you are wrong, but I don't see much of a correlation between the power you make and knowledge on the topic. I know people and shops that can build you a car that will put down 700hp+ on a dyno, but yet I would not trust them to gap my spark plugs properly.

Just like the people that have 8,000 posts and spit a bunch of BS to people... It's just a number. At the end of the day its the quality of content that matters.

All I can say is that's the method I use, and it doest fail.

I've done more than my fair share to explain why this joint has issues, and how to correct it. If you don't want to listen, I can't help you.
 
Honestly if it measures out good I'd slam a new key in with a new gear and bolt. Torque it properly with a torque wrench not 3 bumps with the impact. Possibly give it a decent light coat of loctite bearing retaining compound and send it. Then keep tabs on it for a while. The crank snout does have a bit of damage but it looks like there's enough meat left. Another option is slap it together fab up a jig and drill it in another spot to add a pin. This is super common on newer cars that do not have key ways on the cranks when you add more power or a blower.
 
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:p
 
I got it all back installed and timed! Turned out I didn’t need anything else to set the key in place, I actually had to lightly tap it in to the crank! The new timing gear I had to tap on with a hammer as well. I took @bastarddsm advice and put some red locktite on the back half of the gear before putting it on. I was able to wedge a screw driver between my transmission case and my torque converter to hold the crank steady as I torqued the crank bolt, I went to 105 ft lbs and gave her a little extra loving!

Here’s a pic after I tapped the key in place, it wouldn't move at all unless I hit it with the tap:

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That looks super sketchy, tack weld it and move on.

As stated before, the key is more of a guide to make sure the gears are aligned properly. I had the tap the key in place which is was in the correct spot for alignment purposes. I could move the key side to side at all, even with the punch. I had to hit the timing gear on with a hammer and socket. I used red thread lock on the bolt as well which was torqued to 105+ ft lbs which is what hold the gear in place more than the key. I didn't want to apply too much heat there (welding) as I did not want to damage the front seal.

It's all back together so we will see how it holds up.
 
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