2G Brake Options? Full Manual? 3g MC/Booster?

[orangedsm]

I'm prepping my road course build (just for fun track days and hillclimb events, no class restrictions) and I'm looking at brakes. The car will be driven on the road, but very rarely, just for local driving events and similar things.

I would really like to maximize my braking capability since I will be fairly low power (400ish) and FWD. I currently have a basic Wilwood 12" 4-pot setup on the front and stock rear. I'll probably end up going with a Wilwood 13" 6-pot setup and Evo rears, as that seems to be a fairly well liked setup.

With that setup in mind, would I benefit more from keeping power brakes or going to something like a dual-master Wilwood setup? Or should I just upgrade to a 3g master cylinder and booster and call it good?

Due to the design of the stock 2g proportioning valve, what can I do for brake bias adjustment?

Like I said, I'd really like to get the braking system working as well as possible on the track so I can maximize time gained during braking.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Wilwood makes an adjustable proportioning valve. I imagine you won't touch it after you have it where you want it. You can also play with brake compounds (different front and rear) to adjust braking bias as well.

 

[EC17PSE]

if your not going dual master then running 1 bias valve only adjusted the line its on so if you run it on the back then it only lowers the rears which really you dont need to do alot of anyway, out cars i find are very front biased so i feel more towards the rear would help but maybe also running the same pad compound front and rear which is actually something im looking into now.

going bigger is good because of thermal mass and better cooling etc.and shockingly alot do well on 4 pots still, however i am recently starting the process of going 6 pots for a better brake pad pressure and because why not racecar

you could go chase bays MC or run a custom prop valve and then do the adjusting from there,

1 thing I did see is the later evo masters have prop bungs on the MC itself so they could be adjustable with different size jets inside maybe?

 

[Ludachris]

I went back and forth with Todd at TCE on this for my car multiple times... I was dreaming of a 6-piston front and 2-piston upgraded rear set up with Wilwood master cylinders but he assured me it wasn't going to yield much better results than the big bore Wilwood 4-piston front kit and stock rear set up, with stock brake booster I was running. I was going to be able to lock up the tires with that set up using race pads. The big bore 4-piston kit is very close to the same piston surface area of the 6-piston caliper, even pad wear being the only real advantage of the 6.

These cars don't need a lot of rear caliper, you can usually tune with a more aggressive pad on the stock rear caliper. Some people who upgrade their fronts run into issues because they don't upgrade their rear pads.

I was going to do the Wilwood master cylinder setup anyway just for the novelty of it but never got around to installing it. It really just depends how much you want to spend on going overkill. Your money will probably be better spent on a couple different pad compounds to test out different front and rear combinations, good brake fluid, stainless lines (if you haven't done that already) and of course, good tires. And you'll want to run some ducting to the calipers to keep things cool. I would get my rotors glowing running in the evening track events, which really eats up your pads and your rotors.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I typically run slightly less aggressive pads in the rear than the front. My last setup was Carbotech XP10's in front, XP8's in the rear. Since there is more bias to the front, the rear heat less quickly. A slightly less aggressive pad compound in the rear would would allow the pad to reach and maintain an optimal heat range.

 

[gsxitement]

I just converted my car to manual brakes with a chasebays master and a manual rear prop valve. I'm gonna put in the Project Mu clubracer pads this weekend. I know what I want the brake pedal to feel like, and I wasn't getting it with the factory stuff. I'm going out this weekend, so I'll give my impressions.

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[rival]

I have done several track days and a race on the CTSV 4pot upgrade with 13" mustang rotors, I did switch to a hawk race pad though... I am making 613 to the wheels and have had no issues at all pushing these breaks. I actually think I may go to a slightly less aggressive pad because I keep fighting locking them up... just my .02 from a cheap upgrade standpoint...