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2G tubular rear subframe kit

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,981
1,553
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
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Hello fellow DSMers! I'm posting this to have a centralized page of information regarding my tubular rear subframes for the 2G cars.

I built my prototype in 2012 and I've built and shipped 19 more subframe kits since then. I am still building/offering them. Build time is usually about 6 weeks, but I'm usually backed up with orders on them (as well as other parts). Material used is 4130 tubing. All bracketry is laser cut and CNC bent. Everything is TIG welded with a Miller Dynasty 210DX.

Q: How much are they?
A: I offer two different versions. The drag version is the lighter of the two. It uses thinner wall 4130 tubing and has no provisions for a sway bar. It runs $1850 for the complete kit. The other one is the road race version. Overall, it is the same design as the drag version, but it uses thicker wall tubing for added strength (and weight) and has brackets and spherical provisions to attach a sway bar. It runs $2200. Add $50 to either for a 3Kgt rearend option.

Both versions include the LCA’s and toe arms, necessary hardware for installation, and e-coating and powdercoating of everything. Shipping is not included in the above prices, but my shipping prices are very reasonable.

Q: How much weight is saved?
A: The drag version sheds 46 lbs (including deletion of the sway bar itself). The road race version sheds about 29 lbs total.

Q: What are the advantages of this subframe kit?
A: It offers a few advantages. Aside from the obvious weight savings, it also offers better rearend bracing. The rearend is solid-mounted on both sides of the pinion end, and also offers 4 mounting points on the cover instead of two like the factory. This will help prevent movement that leads to breakage, and no fancy, expensive rearend cover is needed. The kit includes LCA’s and toe arms, which are both "tunable" in length. And the inboard pick-up points on the subframe all have an option for a 1” raise, which will raise the instant centers and roll center. All attachment points of the arms have Teflon-lined spherical bearings instead of bushings to eliminate bushing deflection, which should make the rear suspension more predictable.

Q: Can I use a Frontline Fabrication rearend cover with this subframe?
A: Unfortunately, no. The Fronline Fab covers won’t work with my subframe due to the way my subframe uses four mounting points on the cover instead of two like the factory. FF's cover is contoured near the two lower bolt holes and wouldn't work without extensive machining. But that's OK though because a stronger cover is no longer needed with my subframe. My subframe mounts the rearend at four points on the cover, as well as both sides of the pinion end, so the rearend will never twist and break. This is a solution that addresses the issue right at the root of the problem rather just adding a stronger cover to a twisting rearend.

Q: Are any modification required to the car or other parts?
A: Yes, minor modifications. #1 is the fuel filler hose. A few inches of the hard portion near the subframe needs to be cut out and replaced with a rubber hose. And #2 is the exhaust. An OE fitting exhaust will not clear the subframe. You'd need to rework a small section of the exhaust to gain clearance where the exhaust system passes below the subframe. But that it for modifications.

Q: Will this subframe fit with an OE fuel tank?
A: Yes and no. The original design of this subframe was not designed to be used with an OE tank. I'd recommend a fuel cell anyway due to the drawbacks of the OE saddled tank on the 2G cars. BUT, if you're dead set on running one of these subframes with an OE tank, I can accommodate it. It involves me moving a few of the bars in and away from the tank. But what this does in essentially leave less room inside of the subframe for getting the rearend housing in and out. In fact, it's so tight that you need to remove the cover from the rearend to be able to get it in and out of the subframe. I'm only mentioning this to be forthcoming - the guys who have subframes built this way say it's really not a problem. But if you're on the fence about going with a fuel cell, take my advice and do it. A 10-gallon bottom-sump aluminum cell fits perfectly where the spare tire normally sits. And RCI offers cells with sending units, so you can have a function fuel level gauge on the dash.

Q: Will you sell the rear lower arms by themselves?
A: Absolutely! Right here ----> http://volkmetalcraft.com/product-category/2g-dsm/

Q: What are your options for powdercoat?
A: As Henry Ford famously said, "You can have any color you want, so long as it's black". I only offer a cascade black coating on these. If you are 110% determined to have your subframe a different color other than black, I can ship it to you with a black e-coating finish and you can have it powdercoated by the coater of your choice. E-coat is basically an electrically applied primer coat. This will prevent corrosion and will also offer a great base for your powdercoat.

Q: Do you have rearend options?
A: Yes. Aside from the OE 2G rearend, I can also build a subframe to run a 3000GT rearend.

Q: How do I order?
A: Send me a PM or e-mail. I require a $200 non-refundable down payment at the time of ordering. And the balance is due upon completion.

e-mail: [email protected]


Random subframe images:

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Last edited:
I just went to replace my subframe bushings and found 12 rust holes...must be a sign, these are beautiful.
 
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