Nah its just a fine like powder that burns on. I not noticed any smell from it. The ceramics tend to go red/brown vs staying while or light tan. Im not sureif i got my old plugs anymore but if i doni shall snap a pic.I have not opened up the system on my daily to see how far if any it goes...

When i pull my spark plugs out on my daily i get red deposits on them but small. I use fuel cleaner every few months so is just a side effect of that

I had a B&M. Long tru cooler. It worked but not aswell as i wanted. I had ducting also but i think a fan may of been helpful. I re did my setup using setrabs. No direct fans but the cooler does better. I seen many work but most do have fans on it

Actually decided and had time to work on this talon! Shocking...So over the last 2 weeks i have started to work on the main things and a clean up of parts.AT, the valve body came out as i wanted to install a shiftkit and change the fluids and filter anyway. Part of new ownership is going...

some pics for you and all to see. i did a reel on my FB page for this but will be good to log it here also for others to see

I had samples made and test fitted. I have now re tweeked some areas and need to make 1 new clip. They will be re checked on the tweeked ones and if all approved i will be looking at the next steps

Update what you need. I just came across it and dont remember seeing anything like this on here so thought sharing it might help someone oneday

Thanks to a few sites for this. I found some on the Mirage forums also which might help someone one day find a specific ECU and where it came fromECU # Year Model Displacement Transmission Emissions Notes MD005660 JDM/NZ ECU MD081123 1985-1986 Pick Up 2.0l MD102608 1987-1988 Pick Up 2.0l...

I am forever telling people to come here and join. best place for all the info and knowledgeI am on FB but for my page and to promote things and sales etc. its a TOOL and i use it as much as i can since Mark Fu*kerburg and his pansy woke, and fake checkers ruined FB anyway so get what i can...

any additional bars is always good to do for strength. I want to redo all of mine again as i want it higher and further back for a halo seat. when I did my first attempt i failed and forgot to check with my seat plus the tube bender bent the wrong place so was to low. I had to redo it to even...

You mention FIA but the doors are not FIA as they need to be covered to be FIA approved. Are you working to FIA standards on this project as no sharp edges on doors are allowed. Its why I made covers for mine as I am working to FIA/MSA regulations.Also on your top bar from the A pillar to B...

Just to come back to this. I grad an Evo unit as its very much similar to oem. If it can withstand evo abuse as they drag race also why would it not work in a dsm?

A while ago I did a write up on this and it was helpful but I was asked many times if a video would be done. I understand seeing all the details along the way vs pics of sections can be easier so I made it happen after some delay and sorry about that.Below is the video link to my U tube...

Yeah i opted for the carr bolts on these. Since the revs i plan to run are high the stress on the cals and pulling it apart are higher so i opted to go for carr and can be re used endless times if bearings need to be changed out. When discussing with my engine builder the down stroke forces are...

Oh sorry i meant heard of as in adding it in to the pump, i know what vaseline is and PET jelly, just not heard of it being put into the pump before, sorry for my comment. I not long woke up and wrote it and sounded odd now i re read it.

Vaseline is one i not heard of before being put into a pump. So thats to get pushed around the engine also and will pull oil up easier being packed vs full of air?

Just to jump in and say the same thing. If the tensioner has bottomed out then you have a leaky tensioner and is faulty so needs to be swapped for a good one. Its rare to find a leaky or non sealing tensioner but it happens once in many.Swap it out and will be all good again

They ship around the world and when I worked with them we were cheaper then another who made windows but theirs still had to be trimmed to suit and then painted! Oirs is much better as its made to fit perfectly and close the gap up more and pre painted ready for the window glue!You will love...

Its a good way to check for leaks pre running of an engine. Here you can find leaks from pressure or seals by doing this method. Its a process of elimination and better to find now then when the engine is put together and then needing a breakdown to find a seal has not taken or something.

The Eagle rods look like they have started to follow Carrillo as they look pretty close to my rods. The ribs allow extra strength, the weight is also fairly close. The Carrillo's are rated to just over 300hp per rod and is designed for high revs vs torque primarily. interesting to see they...

If you want ploy windows I have a company who makes direct bolt in and good fit replacements. They are here in the UK and ship worldwide. ACW motorsport plastics are what they are called. You can save about 15+kg just on poly windows excluding front windshield.

Wow it is more of an issue. I was lucky and took pics at the time to go back to in case. I do with multiple bolts or springs to always revert back vs guessing. But 1 thing i always remembered was the spring being an adjuster stopper. I paid more attention on his order of parts on this post then...

Got spot Mr. Nice save for this chap.

No not many about as its not a problem it seems. So in that case you need to cross ref each evo part you are using to DSM parts and see if they can be crossed over. While use evo rear rotors i have not looked at an evo rear adjuster or spring kit vs a dsm. Maybe that differs slightly? Im only...

Well it might not be the issue but if its catching then possibly? but evo backing shilds dont have mounting for the calipers since evos mount to the knuckle vs a dsm, So those are the wrong ones. The evo shoes will be fine i bekieve as i use galant/evo shoes. It looks installed correctly so...

No. They just get listed as resolved but ge erally check the dates as i had made a few mistakes upon someone reviving a dead thread. Now i generally check the first post to see if its relevent and they continue to need help

This is a post from 2013! You see that right? Haha

So this pic is a good base start. While simple its what helps people sometimes.Blue tends to be oil. If your exhaust tips are sooty then its overfueling so thats another place to keep an eye on. Smelling the fumes can help but be careful of course. Eyes watering means rich.Take the o2...

What color? Do you run a cat / resonators. This will happen even on normal cars. My daily does this even now with only 1 cat. Its possibly fuel related so just make sure you are not over fueling.

Great find! I can adjust to make sure its only the early ones get them for now.

I already list it and sold one to a 3G chap. this was based on someone showing me their shock pin which match and that's why i said about i wonder when they swapped over. if they adjusted it in 2001 then they may not work so i will have to check into this more now and possibly remove them from...

They all machined, coated so not ready to make any more yet till the batch runs out

US galant might of got them but i believe the EU galant used the same knuckle as the DSM got. i would have to re dig my galant rear knuckles out again

i made mine from alloy steel so 4340 EN24T, super strong. i did external threads vs internal for more strength and the fact the seize inside over time and snap so i revised the design to be my specification

super weird one. junkyard find i think

I have a customer with a 3G set i think he said he bought them for and not heard back from it since. if they changed it i wonder when from? they did not need any more taper strength.

yeah that is 100% not a DSM shock pin. never seen one stick out that far before.

I had slight touching on my tire once, This was when I was messing with shock heights and setting up the bump stop with dual springs. This made my lower spring perch lower THUS wider at that point and it would rub slightly if my camber was a lot. I had to redo the setup anyway as i changed some...

Now I have woken up and read it again your specs are going to alter the wheels and setup. So the NEW wheel specs 11" are going to be 6.3mm closer to the shock vs the old 10.5" wheel. Also stick out 6.3mm aka poke. So rubbing is mostly going to be part of the setup choice. Looking at the...

So i took specs from both AWD and FWD as I have both knuckles. Both later deeper GB version and both were the same. I have not spec'd the early ones so those knuckles.My version uses an external thread so depending on the amount you need to push the shock out by and the width of the shock...

have it re-checked. the top looks more angled in so that's why i start with a visual check.

looks like the drivers is more cambered and that's the visual I'm getting from it. have you confirmed camber is perfect both sides

So clean the engine vanished! Haha

Based on other units out there from oem chassis im not expecting anything to wear out. I did make some solid mounts vs the alloy mounts that slip in as those were not able to take the extra force qnd wobbled so those went and is not solidly mounted

Its active. Was active dead on the hour as you commented. Did you see it yet