Hey I'm getting around to fixing my GSX real soon. It's been broken since Cinco de mayo 2012. I'm looking for a local place around Jax to get my engine rebuilt, so if anyone have any suggestions, please let me know. I want to find a good place to have it done at, I heard there is a place in...
Hey everyone. I know this manager at the Panda Express on the west side, on Normandy just off of 295 Next to Wal-mart. He wants to get people together on March 11th from 4-9. Everyone can chill in his parking lot and eat there with a 10% discount. Post a reply if you are going, thinking of going...
i'm not sure what could be causing this issue, but it seems like around 5000 rpm under WOT it would stutter. It can be seen with the log. Can anyone think of anything that could be related to the IAT temp drop?
I don't know the temps, but it goes above the half way mark and my CEL comes on. I have not had my laptop connected to link when it over heats so I can't tell you the exact numbers. All I see is the needle continues to climb and I just shut off the AC and it'll drop back down. I'm running two...
They are blowing in the right direction. and it feels like it's pulling a lot of air through the radiator, but I guess it's not enough or it's just pulling hot air through. Thanks though
Yes I've checked and rechecked many times to make sure I'm not low on coolant and I have water wetter added. It does seem to drop the temp with no ac, but still overheats with ac on.
Yea, I have flushed out the coolant when I changed the stats to the cooler one. I got the coldest one from O'reilly's. I think it's rated at 170 degrees or 180. I can't remember exactly, but I do remember asking for the colder one of the two they offer. I'm not really sure if I'll be able to...
I have the same issue and still trying to find a solution. Basically the same setup you have minus the thick radiator. Which is what I was think of doing. But since you're having the same issue saves me money. My post is a couple down on the same forum. Good luck, hopefully we can find some way...
I have the coldest stat I can have, added the additive that's suppose to lower the temp even more. Condenser and radiator isn't touching each other. I don't have custom duct work for more cooling though. But I have checked for anything that might block the air passage. Is this a common issue...
Yea I checked to see if the stat is installed correctly and I flushed it out with new coolant. Normal driving everything is at normal temp ranges, but when I have the A/c on, it overheats. I have no clue why.
I'm not sure what is causing this problem, but basically my car starts to overheat only when the a/c is on for about 5 mins or longer. I have checked for coolant leaks, cooler thermostat, checked all belts, and both fans are on at all times. Still I cannot figure out what is causing the...
I've been tunning for 15psi and then for 21psi. I'm pretty sure I tuned for the 15psi pretty well, keeping the same settings to run high boost. I get massive knock starting at around 3800 rpm. So I went and pulled the timing, seemed to be better but still getting 2.5 degrees of knock with only 6...
yea the rear O2 is just there to check the cat efficiency. I didn't reuse the grommet, since the plug is huge, I barely got it to fit through the floor board.
Yes that is how I installed my WB. The only thing with leaving the rear O2 unplugged is that it will throw a CEL. If you have dsmlink, you can disable the catalytic check.
Finally got some time to work on my car. Got the fuelab regulator installed and went for a little test drive. You are correct about my stock regulator being overrun by the pump. Although I didn't get to do a complete pull all the way to 7k, I already noticed the difference it made with the...
I was afraid of the fpr issue. I did do a search of the issue to see if I will need one or not, and from a few people, they said they were fine without having one. But this is proof that I do need one to control my fuel better. That also explains why I do not feel much of a horsepower increase...
Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it. I get the basic concept of this, it's just that I don't have any way of telling if I'm doing right or not, good thing that you're able to take some time and show me the way. I did two pull for consistency. This is where I had trouble with before...
I have a profec-b boost controller and would like to run 16psi for normal everyday and 21-22 for here and there. I don't know why the coolant temp is getting up that high, usually it'll stay around 210, and today wasn't even that hot, just 80* here.
Sorry the pull didn't quite get to 7k but hopefully it is good enough. I did notice the intake temp was a little high, since it's pretty hot here today. I read that for every +10 deg the boost drops 1psi, so I think right at 5k, the boost is right on. Do I need to adjust the maf comp a little...
Sorry it took me so long to get some wot pulls, been crazy busy. I did two back to back pulls, not all the way to redline though. I adjusted the map to what you suggested and at 5 and 5.5k my boost gauge was showing 15.5-16 psi. I'm running a small 16g.
Okay, I went on a long cruise and adjusted the maf comp along with the tps volt to achieve the isc position at 29-31. I did have to adjust the deadtime and took off about 50 usecs to keep the FT around 0%. Did I miss anything else for this initial setup?
Oh thanks, I didn't know about the early access version or the firmware. Got those things taken care of and here is the idle log. I went back to square one to set the maf comp to get .24 gm/rev and set the injector closer to 330 usec deadtime. Although I could only able to get it to 300 usec and...
I did the initial maf comp adjustment for cruise then started to tune for an even AF ratio. The thing is that I don't have anyway to log true boost. So I read somewhere that I can change the Maf comp at a specific Hz to match up with the boost according to my boost gauge. But by doing so, my AF...
I'm looking to break 300 hp for high boost and turn it down a bit for daily driving. I believe I have the supporting mods to do 300 hp, but still need a manifold and downpipe. I was going to do E316g to accomplish this, but I ran across the Gt3071R. I was thinking for about the same amount, just...
I have a set of Gs-t rims for sale. They are in decent shape, scratches here and there, no dents or bents of any kind. Tire has good amount of tread left. Let me know and give me an offer. Asking for 200.
I found out that my control box is an older version and doesn't have the output signal for logging. Having to buy one to be able to log, which they do offer, but it ends up to be just as much as all the other leading competitors out there :(. Must do more research before buying stuff.
I know, I know, why did I get prosport. I bought it a long time ago, and now I have link, I want to know if there is a way to log the A/F ratio from the WB to simplify tuning. Im pretty new to tuning this on the street and I don't have a way to keep track of the A/F ratio other than the gauge...
From what I got from researching, you need the front O2 for closed loop. The rear one you can take off and put the WB in its place then disable the cat efficiency checks. Also make sure you get the O2 that can be linked to your ecu like LC-1 does. GL
Can you guys give me inputs on the tuning I did for the fuel trim. This is the log when I went for a drive after the initial set up before MAFcomp adjust. I just want to make sure I have everything in spec and hopefully nothing messed up. Bad thing is that I don't have the WBO2 installed just...
I just finished installing these on my car tonight, took me about 5 hours. I'd have to say it was a little bit easier than what I anticipated it to be. I got my bushings from AP Spec Rear Differential Bushings for 2G DSM - Modern Automotive Performance
They had some in hand and shipped it out...
I have a 95 gsx, stock motor some mods here and there. I went out yesterday to the store. It was about a 30 mins drive, got there fine, no problem, car didn't run funny or anything out of the ordinary. But when I went to leave, the car would start, runs for about 2 seconds then cut off. I must...
well from what I've heard, the axles can tend to rust onto the wheel bearing. Making it very difficult to take out unless you have the proper tools and possibly a new bearing to go with it. As far as checking to see if anything is loose, you have to get it on the hoist and look at the suspension...
I've changed the SC and thats pretty simple, not sure about the MC since i've never done it. Just get some brake cleaner and clean off around those area and check to see where it's leaking from. Or just to be safe do them both, I hear it is a common problem for our cars