I just ordered the GPD on Partsgeek for my G-vr4. It said they have 4, so there should be three more there left. Does anyone know if these work as well as the $140 sold out nobody makes them anymore ones? Last time I bought one was ages ago, but I seem to remember them being around $80 for the...

It really depends what you're talking about. The valve cover is interchangeable, as are the seats. Rear axles are going to be tough to source from a FWD car, as is the AWD transmission and transfer case. Your question is too vague.

Have you ever thought about seeking professional help for that problem of yours? I'm picturing an episode of Hoarders where you have to navigate a narrow tunnel between stacks of Gvr4s to get from the street to the house. LOL Ps. Here's 631/1000

An oil cooler can only be "air to air" if you are running it with no oil.

Front rotors are $25 each. You would have to be nuts to replace the pads without putting new rotors on at the same time. You also should make sure all slider pins move freely and are lubed with disk brake lube, and remove all rust from behind the SS clips where the pads rest in the caliper brackets.

How is this car holding up? Is it on the road or what? I would love to see it.

The 90 style oil cooler is a great idea. I never gave it much thought, but it would take some of the load off the cooling system by not having the oil heating up the coolant.

I can't see how it could idle at 3000 while the closed throttle switch is activated. The ECU would cut fuel and the engine would start surging. Something isn't adding up.

I can't maintain 70+ miles per hour for very long with the A/C on. Temps start to rise above 220 for me too. But if I shut off the A/C it goes back to 195ish. I have ducting, heat blanket, a Mr. Gasket racing thermostat, a huge aluminum Mishimoto radiator, water wetter, a two speed stock fan...

You can block those holes with the gasket. They are just main galleries where they drilled the vacuum ports. They meet up with slots/holes inside the throttle body bore where vacuum is drawn upon them near the throttle valve. There are other drillings up top by the vacuum nipples that go in on...

A/C came on?

The crank and cylinder walls could be all rusty. Maybe rebuild the engine.

Just call me Clair. Clair Voyant. LOL

Do you have the plate between the engine and transmission?

Furthermore, you adjust the cable with the throttle closed, not with someone holding the pedal to the floor.

Just buy a new cable for Christ's sake. If the cable took 12 volts from the battery then it's melted / burned and your next post is going to be all about how your engine revved to the moon and now it won't run or some stupid s##t. And get yourself a battery hold down while you are at it.

Stand under the car with a 3' long 3/8" extension, a 14mm swivel socket, and a 3/8" ratchet. Unscrew said bolts.

The great thing about link is that if you don't know how to tune, you can post a log.

As someone already said, replace the calipers and brake fluid. All the heat generated from the stuck caliper wears out the brake fluid. Since you work at the parts store you may as well replace the pads and rotors too. They shouldn't cost you too much and the dragging pads are probably all...

Glass is pretty flexible. Either it was installed wrong in the first place, or the windshield frame is incredibly rusted out. Windshields don't just crack from driving on un-level surfaces.

Here's an interesting take on E85: According to Cornell University professor of agriculture David Pimentel, producing ethanol actually creates a net energy loss. According to his calculations, producing corn and processing it into 1 gallon (3.7 liters) of ethanol requires 131,000 BTUs of energy...

Oh well maybe I'm just regurgitating lies that I saw on mainstream tv news, but the data shows domestic crude production on a massive upswing. As for E85 and it's Co2 emissions, does that take into account the rain forest disappearing to plant soy to run cars on? That rain forest is what used to...

You didn't happen to be using a Chinese BSE stub shaft did you? Those have been known to eat oil pumps.

Hogwash! In case nobody has been watching the news, the US is already pretty self sufficient, as the world's second largest crude oil producer. Secondly E85 is worse for the environment than gasoline because we have to clear cut more land to grow corn, the production requires a ton of energy...

I'm so confused. How does a slipping clutch and a screaming rear end lead to the need for a Japanese spec engine for an American car?

Yes, the ones that actually say "turbocharger" are Chinese. So are the ones that say "EVO3" or "EVOIII"

They aren't always 100% exact. It's better to get the cylinders bored/honed to match each piston, number them, and keep them in that order. However, that being said, I did have my block bored .5mm over BEFORE I had my new 85.5mm oversized CP pistons delivered, and mine is still running strong...

I would pull them together.

Check your water/meth spray nozzles. Perhaps you have a check valve stuck open.Another possibility is that you left it in an unheated garage, and the temperature recently increased from subfreezing to somewhat warm and humid. I put my car away wet and cold a few weeks ago, and when I pulled it...

That's good. A perfect stoichiometric burn produces only Co2 and H2O.

I never thought of doing that because it would be an utterly useless waste of time and resources, and I would have no room to put the steering rack in front of the axles unless I was willing to remove the engine. However I did get stiffer springs and adjustable shocks. Just doing that alone...

Another possibility is a damaged (water/oil) oil cooler, but my first guess would be head gasket.

I honestly posted before I realized it was 420A. I have very little experience with those, so really no idea. Sorry.

She's a smart girl; she's the one who will be sitting directly behind it. LOL

There's a bushing on the end of your crank that has to be removed unless you are using a flexplate for an automatic.Edit: Oh, you have the Chrysler engine.... Nevermind! I know nothing about this.

The timing belt is broken. You'll need to pull the head and do a valve job and timing belt and timing components. Make sure the oil pump and balance shafts still spin freely while you're in there, and it would be a good time to toss a new water pump on there too. Make sure you are familiar with...

So you have been having charging/electrical problems... Or are you saying it's brand new since this morning?

Maybe just a dead battery?

How did you check the valve timing? If you trusted the mark on the harmonic balancer lining up with the pointer on the cover, that isn't always right. You need to drop a straw in cyl#1 and confirm TDC by rotating the crank.

I thought I saw arching, but after looking at it full screen maybe not. Is the noise coming from the PCV valve? I get a bunch of clicking from mine sometimes because my cams give me a funky idle.

Test the resistance of the wires! I can see the coil arching out in the video. Either the wire fell off the coil, or you have an open wire or plug.

I have a pulverized piston that I keep around the shop as a trophy/reminder that every bolt, keeper, tool has to be accounted for prior to firing up the engine.

I see where you're going. Makes sense. How about air cooling it with a smaller fan driven off the opposite side of the shaft?

I saw one built out of two gas powered leaf blowers. It made a little boost. Not a crazy amount. Not to be pessimistic but why electric? What's wrong with belt or exhaust driven?

I read this somewhere: "A turbo spins very fast; most peak between 80,000 and 200,000 RPM (using low inertia turbos, 150,000-250,000 RPM) depending on size, weight of the rotating parts, boost pressure developed and compressor design."

You don't need all that stuff if you have your old key. Poster must have had no key at all. With newer cars the dealer has access to key codes to make them from nothing.

Oh I know; did you do a boost leak test?

Alrighty then, how is that working for you so far?

What Steve said... Since you have a 2g, I would say bad TPS or improperly adjusted TPS. The ECU thinks the throttle is closed, so it's trying to control RPM accordingly.

That's not a boost leak test, unless your hand is a compressed air source, and the car is off.