Does it kind of jam into gear? Like stutter slightly? Does it get better once it warms up?Drive the car on a level parking lot spot so it won't roll by itself while in neutral and push the clutch in with the car in first gear. Rev the engine to 6500rpms. If the car at ANY times starts to move...

That feeling is normal I believe, mine use to do it until I got the energy suspension inserts. That mount looks like it's in excellent shape though. If you want to increase your shifter stiffness and feel, go get the energy suspension transmission mount inserts from autozone. They're special...

Yeah, I used compressed air with a spark plug adapter. I did one cylinder at a time and put the piston at the top of it's stroke so in case the cylinder lost pressure, I didn't loose the valve.The thing about doing it this way is it will save you a lot of money and time depending on if the...

Yup, that sounds like your valve stem seals. If the turbo oil seal was blown, you would be shooting out a ton of smoke while driving. You can try running thicker oil, I've heard that can help them to stop leaking but don't take my word on that.If you take it to a shop, expect to pay at least...

You should tap that lines that comes off the intake manifold and goes to the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. That's the best place because you get the most accurate reading of whats going into your engine.

Try installing a symborski shift kit, that might help.http://www.jnztuning.net/product_info.php?cPath=21_30_113&products_id=1250I'm interested in what everyone's opinion is on a short throw shifter as well. I think the stock 2G shift throw is retarded long.I've heard good things about...

That optima was trying it's hardest to escape, it looks like your crash bar saved your fmic and probably your engine. Good thing you kept it on there. If your parting out, let me know. I live in Ohio too and will gladly come take some stuff from you.Good to hear you're okay man, hope it...

Absolutely no reason? How about using less force the turn the steering wheel?

I feel for you. I've been trying to get a crankshaft pulley bolt off of a Honda Prelude for over three days, it was torqued to 180ft-lbs from the factory. Breaker bars and my 350 impact wouldn't take it off. I ended up getting it off with a 750ft-lb impact wrench which took awhile to get a hold...

What are you? a masochist? Go put all that stuff back on your car. There's absolutely no point in taking power steering off your car unless it didn't work.Sorry if this post wasn't helpful.

This is an interesting read and I would switch to a new Subaru if I had to money. They're fun cars to drive and very roomy. What turns me away the most is that I always hear about the engines spinning rod bearings though, might just be like the myth that DSMs are unreliable but either way, makes...

Yeah, I'm talking about the bracket that holds the pump to the block. This guy right here:If you look on the bracket itself, you'll see a number/letter code stamped into it. You won't be able to see it with the pump mounted to it but between the JDM and USDM brackets, you'll notice they are...

:ohdamn: You should of just got a GS-T but I guess it's unique.

The JDM motor you have in your car has a different power steering bracket on it. You'll need the bracket from a USDM 7-bolt for the factory length belt to fit properly. I had the same issue when I put the engine in my car, took me awhile to figure out.Part number: MB911871I suggest going to...

I put a lot of this thing together, did he run it?

Those seats look really good and very similar to the oems, keep us updated. Go to a junkyard and see if you can find a tibby you can snag the brackets out of. It'll be a lot easier to use those and modify then to make something custom. You might even be able to modify the stock dsm brackets to work.

I would get my valve cover powder coated and get a lotek pillar pod.http://www.gaugepods.com/mitsubishi.html

+1 on this, I've been running prothanes for over two years. I recently switched to OEM filters, before that I used K&N filters; always only hand tighten them on.If you have excessive vibration at idle, try to up your idle to about a grand. That might help

No, they're not exactly the same. The screw holes are in different spots, the width is different and they look like they might be different length.The part number is also different than the mitsubishi part, which if I'm mistaken, it should be the same.Comparison pictures of the old verses...

I ordered a set of these and they don't fit. They look identical but the bend is slightly off and the screw holes are in different spots. I called the dealership that Chryslerparts.net is linked to and he's ordering another set to see if they packaged them, he assured me they should have fit...

haha, awesome. Love Epic meal time.

OEM clutch or ACT2100

I've never owned one but I've done the timing belt and valve stem seals on a couple; that's more work than most people will ever do to their own cars and I wouldn't call them hard to work on. Try doing a turbo swap on a 300zx and tell me they're hard to work on.

I played it on PC when it first came out and it was alright but felt very unfinished. This game was such a disappointment. I tried to like it, I really did but everything about it just screamed half-assedness. I had some fun with it but after I beat it I haven't touched it since.

Before you buy any hard pipes I would really think about what kind of intercooler you wanna run. If you're going to get a front mount sometime down the road, buying hard piping for that side mount is going to be a waste of time.

Pro-status BSE kit for the deep pocketed DSMer: AMS 4G63 Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit

because I think the typical DSM way would be to zip tie the muffler on :p

If you 400hp is your goal, go with a different turbo because the 16g will be nearly maxed out trying to make 400hp. I would suggest the Holset HX40 or maybe a 20gBig 16g has the slowest spool but flows a little more air, the small 16g spools faster but flows a little less air. The evo3 16g is...

I have a oem new drain bolt and washer for when I do my oil change in a few months, I just like oem stuff. I have a nylon washer I got from Autozone on there now and it doesn't leak.Either way, you need something on there because just the bolt alone will leak.

I use the OEM filters from the dealership, it makes me feel warm and fuzzy instead. They cost like six bucks and they have that anti-drain back valve that supposedly helps with lifter tick; can't go wrong.

I have the same motor with an ACT2100 and I haven't had an issue out of it. I've had it for about three years now and paid about a grand for it with a 60 day start-up warranty.Sounds like you got a bad engine, I would have gotten a replacement from whoever you bought it from or a full...

haha, this was hilarious. I thought you were gonna throw the cone at her.

Ohio sucks, it's mostly farmland. I live in Ohio and feel the same way you do, can't wait to get out. I personally love hot weather and plan to move to Arizona after I get my degree.

Awesome car man. Out of all the things to notice on your car, I can't help but noticed what you have under the battery tie down. What is that? Foam? I have the same battery and did something similar, only with cardboard though.

I really love my ACT 2100 now that I got it to work like it's supposed to, I got a sprung disc and it's rated for 400lbs of torque; which is more than I plan to make in the next year/two.

This was my ebay clutch after about 8000 mules, I never launched it. I didn't have good luck with mine and I drive like a grandma, I'd hate to see someone who drives hard using one of these clutches.

It's the first letter of my first name and my last name. I should probably just have used my last name. =P

I would rather buy my parts from a reputable shop that is know for selling only legitimate parts. Not to mention you can get them for cheaper from extremepsiEXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

You might damage the roller rockers using those as is but some of them look alright. You might be able to take a piece of sand paper or dremel fine grit sanding disc to them; remove the burrs of the really ####ed up ones.I personally would try to get your money back and get new stuff. This is...

I called JNZtuning and they said the tie rod ends were superseded by newer parts that don't come with the nuts and cotter pins. They have to be ordered separately. The part number for the castle nut is: MB122128I guess this can be marked as resolved. =\

What about the inner tie rod (3) and the bellows boot (2)? I was expecting the inner tie rod to come with the locking not to hold the outer in place and the bellows boot to come with the clamps. Neither came with anything.

Okay, so I ordered new two new OEM tie rod ends and one inner tie rod from JNZTuning, before I call them tomorrow and complain I was wondering if anyone knew if they were supposed to come with new castle and lock nuts. The catalog showed that they did, I think?JNZ Tuning Online- OEM...

That thing looks like it's a little too fast for you to handle, just look at that wing. It's huge, I mean, it has to be fast to need that thing.

Do this and if you're missing the one in the back, loop a chain or tow strap around the intake manifold.

I see a bunch of boost leaks looking in that box, that's A LOT of piping, geez. It looks like a inviveral FMIC kit off ebay.I looked around on ebay and didn't find a similar looking kit but I can almost guarantee you it's a ebay kit just by looking at the core. It's either an ebay kit or...

I have this same issue and consistently fought with it for about and day. In the end, I gave up because I didn't want to drill or cut anything but mine definitely isn't as bad as yours.If you fix it, post up it. I'd be interested to see before and after shots and how you did it.EDIT...

Yeah, fellow DSMers are always willing to help others out but be careful who you trust to work on your car because, well, the dsm you're about to get is case and point about what I'm trying to say lol. If you plan to keep the car long term, I would get it fixed at a shop. Otherwise, have at it...

Hopefully you're getting that car for a good price because I would estimate the repair cost of that damage to be around a grand from a shop. Get an estimate done.

My car isn't FWD biased :pI think we can all agree that regardless of power distribution, there are better and easier platforms for drifting than an AWD dsm.Ajaxpowder, If sounds kind of fishy to me that the owner is claiming that the engine is built but it remains non-turbo. I don't...

No problem guys, just glad my dash was apart so I could help out with pictures.