O-ringed block with copper o-rings, mitsu MLS headgasket and standard ARP's have worked very well for me on my street car. I am running 41psi on E85 with a GT4094.
All those super high horsepower v8 drag cars must be really missing out:rolleyes:. How fast are you planning to go? 10's? a good factory restall is all you need, if you sweat high trap speeds so much, put a 5-speed in it. An automatic is all about ET.
So if 60AWHP is your point, then you are going to run the converter "locked up" all the way down the track? Or just lock it up on the top end for that extra .005mph?
Also if you play with the numbers just a little, things change. If my 26" tires actually grow or measure 26.5" at 148mph then the slippage would be closer to 8%
Those numbers are accurate, but the car is most likely going through the traps at around 9000rpm on the 148.9mph pass. It is a 11" converter and it only stalls to about 3800rpm without any boost, 5psi its about 4100rpm, and 20psi at about 4900rpm which is where we launch it. The car pulls...
The 4.422 number comes from the Mitsubishi factory assembly manual, go look it up. The Hughes converter is tight but it will spool a 67mm T4 and a 4094R without nitrous on a 2.1 or a 2.3l (somewhat slower on the 4094R). On a 50hp shot of nitrous the spool is very fast.
It works great, its my preferred method of shifting. Going down the track all you do is shift the 1st switch off for second gear then the 2nd switch off for third, it is very intuitive and easy to remember.
Even with all the electrical connections disconnected from the transmission it should have a forward and reverse gear, if not then there is an internal transmission failure. From what you are saying it sounds like the front pump.
The converter I'm running uses GM torque converter bolts, not stock mitsu bolts. So it depends on what lugs are welded to your converter as too what bolts you can use. Any high grade steel bolt in the correct thread pitch should work well.
I am running two stacked now, not welded, with some torque converter bolts from advance with alot of red locktite. No problems in the last 4 track visits. I was only having problems with the single plate with the car was missing or running rough under boost, then the bolts always wanted to...
Several years ago I was having a problem with cranks breaking just like that, I swapped balancers, flywheels, everything I could think of, but after about two months the crank would break again. I replaced the block and never had another problem.
I have seen the Titan ICS work fine, and I have also seen them leak coolant and fail. The Mitsu MLS will always work fine up to around 32-34psi as long as:-use new ARP headstuds, or ones that have only been used once before and not overtorqued
-the head and deck surfaces are true and very...
I wouldn't use just the switches on a daily driver, it might get annoying and I don't know the long term effects it would have on the tranny, but it works great for drag racing.
On my daily driver 92 talon auto AWD I used a three position toggle switch to turn off the TCU and then send 12v...
Talking about two cars in this thread, the 92 has the 35r and is my street car. The 91 has a 67mm t4 and does not see a whole lot of street driving and is always on race gas. Both have the same converter. Stall speed depends on alot of things, no real way to know exactly what the stall speed...
50hp shot of nitrous, any more likes to breaks transfer cases. Weight maybe around 2700???? Converter is a Hughes restalled unit. Shifting is done manually, switches directly wired to shift solenoids. Transmission is stock 120,000 mile junkyard unit with a welded center diff.
Stalls to about 3400 with no boost or nitrous, once the boost starts building it can reach close to 4800-5000rpms right before launching. The stall of any converter depends on engine torque, the higher the torque the higher any given converter will stall.
We hope to run the car again this Saturday if the weather stays nice. I did want to thank Chris Boone of Slowboy Racing for all his help in getting me the parts we needed on time for the 2.1L and the SBR sheet metal intake manifold. If all goes well hope see some mid to low nines soon.
I am still using the single oem plate, as long as the bolts are kept very tight I have had no problems with many 9 sec passes and 1.4 60ft times on the same plate. The car should be up and running again this next week, hoping for some low 9's soon.
I would definitely be willing to try it out, the top to bottom spearco was on the car when I got it and I've been wanting something bigger. I did want to mention this is a heavy street car that still has everything on it (except A/C, it was leaking everywhere and I did not want to fix it) and...
I searched around and did not see any times for the SBR intake manifold so I thought I would share mine. This is on my daily driver that I just ran last weekend.The car: 1992 Talon AWD automatic
-2.3L with eagle rods and manley pistons
-stock head with Web street grind cams, ARP headstuds...
I have had the exact same problem, I too would like to hear from others that run mustang TB's. I have broken two accufab 75mm, and have made sure that the linkage was not pulling tight, to the point that the TB was not even opening all the way. They break when I let off the gas to shift...
The only other thing that I can think that could be causing the knock is possibly a boost leak, if you have one the turbo might be working that much harder to produce boost and contributing to the increased knock.
I can tell you from personal experience that the .48 A/R housing did not work for me, but I am looking for HP not quick spool. If you hate turbo lag, go NA you will have none of that pesky lag. Personally I want to beat the guy I am racing so I have an .82 A/R.
90-92 6-bolts have bigger rods than the 93-up 7-bolt motors, that is what I was talking about. 6-bolt motor, 4-bolt rear, best of both worlds. They are not too hard to find, all the 92's I have seen were 6-bolt's.
Get a '92, stronger 6-bolt motor and 4-bolt rear MUCH stronger than 90-91 3-bolt rearend. 90 ecu's are different than the 91-94. These differences don't mean much if you only want a 13-14sec car, but if you want to go faster the '92 will save you money.