I did a PCV setup change like two months ago. In response it blew oil in my charge pipes.Took the car out after cleaning what i thought needed, and drove it until it stopped smoking.I more recently got into an accident and was able to see that the oil had been in those pipes still for...
Yeah man, sorry but thats a GOOD diag. And unfortunately, you have isolated the issue. So its time to go deeper. Easiest thing would be just replace the clutch pack.Question, did you replace the trans filter with a mitsu OEM filter?And what fluid are you using? These girls are picky...
I don't attend IFO. I attend DSM Shootout.Hurt my feelings when they didn't do AutoX the year I planned to.We in columbus will be driving wherever need be.
I experienced an issue likes this twice now in the last two years. We just recently fixed this issue but fixed it by mistake AGAIN. Because that limited boost was Brutal.Please post your resolution when found.
Tire pressure can make a difference.I forgot to ask, did you preload suspension prior to final torque on bolts?I definitely think the lack of outer shell on the previous bushing, i did notice that too on the rear Toe arm. Those arms are already so weak. Thats why some folks swapped in some...
My next question was going to be the eccentric bolts in the rear. But it looks like you have them.You said you put the rear 2g eibach springs on the rear? Have you thought about swapping the FRONT eibach springs onto the rear? for increased spring rate.Other than that, looks like everything...
Its to the point now, pictures would be great. Take a nice clear picture of each side of the rear suspension with the wheel off if you can. Then a nice under shot. From afar, then closer, then under the car.I want to see bushings shape, sway bar, upper A arms. Trailing arms bushings. As well...
You should not have a T in your vacuum hose to your AFPR. Your brake booster line looks like its barely on. Fix that.Your boost gauge line is also messed up clearly. Redo the lines.Also, what throttle cable are you using? That looks incorrect. The mounting. The length. It looks wrong.
Based on your compression numbers, you need to do something. Could be a headgasket, could need a rebuild. But clearly, you need to spend some money and time unfortunately.
What battery voltage is the car at while off?
What battery voltage is the car at while running?Do you have the ground wire to the starter on?
Do you have the alternator bolted down all the way?
The EGR? Not needed. Need a block off plate if removing it entirely.The other spots, looks like a hose is too big. And one nipple doesn't have anything on it. Which is a vacuum leak. In this case, a boost leak if the black object in the picture is the new intake manifold.
MAF or SD? Could of been unplugged. Then check BISS and IAC. And of course the TB gaskets you mentioned. TPS and BISS can be figured out easily IF you have link.Drain oil and examine.
95/96 automatic transmission with matching transfer. Mate the same years rear end as well.I have one if you want to rebuild it. Or I have one that is currently running and driving if you are on a budget. You are looking at anywhere from $400 to $750 for an Auto Trans.Definitely get a...
If you had a logger, you would see real time actual numbers. Not just a gauge as a reference. That gauge flarring up and down could and usually is only like 7 degree scale difference.Buy a logger.
You are wanting a mitsubishi part? Or can it be aftermarket? I just did a quick search, and it showed mitsu and hyundai. So, I am assuming you have plenty options if that specific part number is discontinued.
Is this the original drive-train in the car or has it been swapped? It is important that the trans matches the Transfer Case year. Otherwise you need to swap the pinion gear.
Examine the wires of the shift solenoid. I had to swap my shift solenoid harness out inside the valve body because the wires were damaged. Solved my shifting issue. I also run a FF shiftbox.
If it is actually STUCK in 1st gear, and still won't climb above 2k rpms & 15 mph, then it would seem this is more engine / ecu related. More than trans.You also mentioned it would slip in 3rd and 4th?? That's no good. 3rd is the strongest gear in an auto, as far as torque capacity...
Get the filter from the Mitsubishi dealership. It has one inlet and one outlet for fluid. The aftermarket one's usually only have one slot. Boomdeeze pointed that out to me. And so far, has been true.
Is it a Clunk or a Bump?
Does it happen only during cruising? Or also during deccel or accel?Have you checked your trans mounts? Engine mounts? Driveshaft carrier bushings? U-joints?Trans fluid? Trans filter?