Any update info on this? Did you change the injectors out?

Call it what you will, but it was what is was. I have multiple confirmations of these facts and stand by my word. If I still had the car and a stock mani I would prove it to you. Sorry that I don't have a video or dyno sheet to do so. Intake a TB size play a HUGE role in turbo and engine...

Just to add a bit, I've owned an AMM intake and it is very worth the time and money. But there will be a lot of waiting as CODE4 mentioned and don't pay everything up front. I went from full spool on a Garrett gt28 @ 9psi on a LOG mani @4500rpm to 2800rpm with a Jeep TB ported to 60mm.As for...

This causes coolant leak issues... Yer not the only one Mark....

I second the GSX brake setup. Make sure to get braided steel brake lines to ease the installation. If you are going to still DD the car then go with slotted OR vented rotors, not both as they will wear your pads faster than a regular rotor. Otherwise, V/S rotors are perfect. As far as...

Little late to the show dsmaz....Thread is from '09.... That being said, I believe your input to be relevant minus the kill story....

This. It's what I ran for a year with no problems what so ever. Full boost by 3k with an AMM Turbo intake.

If anyone has questions about this PM me. I have solutions for EVERYTHING.

You can't tune our ecu's. They are not Eprom or reflashable. If you want more from an NA motor, the AFX ecu will give you a boost. I would save the loot for a MegaSquirt system, though. That ECU is tunable till your heart's content.

As a couple of others have said, I would be wary of a leaky injector.

It's completely a wanting to be different thing. I know a lot of guys have been shaking their head at this project. So long as I'm satisfied in the end, that's all that matters. It's mainly going to be drag, but with the independent suspension in the rear I can track it or drift it, too.

+1 to SVO's food for thought. A tech is only as accurate as his tools will allow.

I'd go with stock spec of 85. That extra 5 lbs might not sound like much but I wouldn't want to take the chance. 28-58-85 has been my pattern for years with no problems, turbo build or not.

Take it from a tech. If he doesn't honor his warranty work, take his ass to court. If his shop isn't BBB accredited, he won't care if you call them. No one likes getting served, though. Makes me wish I lived in Tampa. I'd totally help you out.As for your original question, check the cam...

Powerstomp the HRC 420a turbo record....or drift.Here's a link to the different combinations of transmissions and bellhousings and their applications. Trans/Bellhousing Combos

It's not a myth, man. There is plenty of research to back up proper engine brea-ins. A lot of time the damage that is caused is microscopic at first, but it's been proven that the initial wear caused to the cylinder walls and rings during the break-in period can be drastically reduced with...

FWIW and for sake of ease, you'd be better off doing a 6g73 swap from a 3g eclipse or stratus/sebring. 2g+6g73 I'd imagine a 6g72 twin turbo could be swapped in, too, but don't quote me.

Just out of curiosity, what did the problem end up being?

I also want to point out that the 2.0/2.4 refers to the 420a or Neon SOHC and DOHC blocks (one in the same) 2.4 cloud car block and also the SRT4 block. They all share the same bellhousing to block bolt pattern. For anyone confused on this setup, there are ony a handful of trans to bellhousing...

Hey guys, just thought I'd share this bit of information. For anyone looking into a rwd setup on the 2.0/2.4 block, the trans of choice for the dodge guys has been the R154 from a mkiii supra...until about a year ago.The MA-5 from a 2.8l Chevy Colorado has been confirmed to work without the...

This would have been my suggestion right from the get go. E85 will give you much greater room for error.As per the OP's original question, get a gtr30. That frame garrett plus e-85 can put you closer to 400whp easy.

+1 I didn't know this was an official "mod." When I put the Prothanes in, I upgraded the bolt while I was at it. I suppose I didn't notice the difference that the bolt made with the addition of the mounts.

+1 on that. let the PM's commence.

Here's a link that may help you out. It doesn't cover install or what parts you should use, rather what parts are needed for certain setups. End-All Parts List to Go TurboI hope it helps. Before you get into SFMU and SAFC, do some research. The cost of those two things and the required work...

+1 Silicone will collapse. If VA doesn't have emissions testing, I'd scrap the whole system...

Not always. I would do a smoke test to see if you have any vac leaks first. The reason I say this is that you are having similar symptoms to when I would blow the filter out of my Missing Link. At first it would take forever to idle down, then once it warmed up, it would almost die during shifts.

Have you tried a different OBDII scanner? It's not that I don't trust the readouts, I'd just want to verify the readings on another scanner...

Input shaft seal

Napa or the dealer will be about the only place that you can find one. Rock Auto ususally has them, too, but then you're waiting on shipping.

Our Ecu's cannot be flashed. You'll be fine if you can find another Ecu from the same year. Time to find a junkyard.

Mike, you know I'll rep your work. Glad to see you are still around. Looks beautiful as always!

Any 2g turbo cable will work. So long as it's a genuine OEM replacement cable, eghey should be okay. I try to steer clear of off-brand products.

+1 to this. Crossing some sensor plugs can wreak havoc...

I wouldn't recommend the eBay kits. Fel-pro's the way to go...

The TDC mark isn't on the pulley itself, it's on the gear behind it.

That's what I thought. I had a 95 that would not scan, checked all the pins and the plug worked fine. Hooked up a universal and whammo! :idontknow:

Bah friggin' humbug! I'm obviously just too old school and can't change with the times.... I'd rather KISS and not have to deal with all the extras. It's a 420A not a Dino. (I have no clue whether MS3 will run a Dino)

It's also another thing to start in with the comparo when it's clearly stated you're not supposed to do that. Granted, I've been gone a long time, but last I knew it was a don't tell unless asked kind of thing. If you scroll up, or better yet, read from the beginning, the OP knows the 4g63 is...

Ok ok I get it.... jeezus. On a side note, I still don't believe you. ROFL

MS2. MS3 has a whole bunch of extra bells and whistles that aren't really needed at all for a 420a.

South Bend Clutch(SBC)

Sure isn't. It's got an OBDII port, but OBD2 were not put into effect untill 96. Hook up a scan tool and get back to me when it won't light up...

This whole thread outside of Shake, Fotown and Bullet makes me :ohdamn:What happened to when the 4g63 guys didn't care enough about the 420a section to post here? I know the OP didn't ask for a 4g63 vs 420a comparo.... so why's everybody doggin' on the 420a? It's a great engine that is easy...

First off guys, unless he can track down something to scan OBDI, he won't be pulling any codes he's got a 95. He needs to do the key dance. BlueNinja is on the right path. It sounds like whatever the problem is, when the CEL kicks on, it's going into limp mode, so definitely look into your sensors.

Thinks his VR-4 is a sports car when it's clearly a sedan on steroids.

Good on the OEM recommendations looks like... Off the top of my head I can think of 15 different mods that are all fairly cheap in their own regard. Jeep 55mm throttle body, Cam Gears, EGR block off, Headers, CAI, Cams, Short Throw Shifter.....wait wait wait, How much money are you trying to...

I think you answered your own question man. Granted, I don't have the trans in front of me, either, but from reading your post, you have a proper diagnosis that it's the gear or the bearing.

Generally speaking, yes. However, bad stem seals usually rear their ugly head right at start up and oil consumption usually tapers off during warm up. If you are blowing smoke the whole time I would look at the piston rings...

Take off your positive battery lead and touch it to a ground. That should reset the ecu. Start there. Or go to a chain parts store and have them clear the codes with a scan tool.

I don't know about you but I'm not too savvy on using pistons that have had the tops gouged by valves.... stress fractures turn pistons into grenades in a hurry....