Well... I posted the car up about a week ago for 12k, thinking that I may have to sit on it for awhile, but I was fine with that. I was thinking that I could get it back to the track and actually turn it up and run some really good numbers while waiting on a buyer. Long story short, I won't be...

Thanks man, I might do another one... but it will just be more race car than street car. I drive this thing way more than I should lol

Been awhile since I've updated, so I'll post a quick catch up post. Ended up swapping to a 2g head/Evo 3 intake manifold, and added some L19's in place of the old standard arp's. After getting all that done, I was finally able to get the nitrous stall up right with some help. So.... Now it's...

Been in your same position before. I sold mine...for the 1st time @ 4 years ago, after having it for 17yrs. I ended up buying it back a year later bc the guy was moving out of State. Kept it another year and ended up selling it again. A year and a half later... I bought it back once again and...

No, I haven't tried that yet. My afr's seem to be safe while spraying the 50 shot (wet kit). I played with timing and fuel a little earlier. I had a spot @ 2k rpm where it would go lean for a split second while revving the car up slowly (without nitrous), which was about where my car would stop...

Basically sea level here. I had a Bradco convertor and a built auto trans to put in the car, but I ended up selling the car before I got the convertor back from Brad (@ 6 months after promised to have it back to me). So for now, I'm just trying to do the best I can using nitrous on the stock...

I know for sure to use the dynatek 2 step. It holds our other car perfect and the rpm doesn't have a big swing up/down like it did when we were using Ecmlink 2 step.

Ok, so I finally got the Dynatek installed (thanks Marty for the help lol). Just wondering if it's better to use the timing retard of the dynatek, or wire up the brake switch for als. Which one seems to work better, and is there a benefit of one over the other?

I have a 3in bumper exit on my car. The only time it really gets annoying to me is going through the drive through, or if I just so happen to pull up beside a cop at a stop light. It's still loud, and it can probably get obnoxious to some people, but I like it.

I played around with raising/lowering timing, and lean/rich afr's but nothing seemed to change more than a 100 rpm or so either way. I had the timing up to 2k rpm in the mid/high 20's I believe, and pulled a few degrees of timing @ 2200 rpm when I had the nitrous activate. And now that I'm...

Yea, I got my brother's car doing pretty good. He is only on a 20g though. It will come up on the convertor in @ 6-7 seconds and stay on the 2 step with the Dynatek. We are probably going to install a small shot on his after I get mine figured out. I'm pretty sure his will be alot easier to do...

2.0 eagle/JE 8.5:1 T4 Bw s363 Stock intake manifold, I have a Magnus on the shelf I may reinstall Crower 272's Stock convertor Car is set right now on 30psi on 93 octane. After I get this situation figured out I am going to be switching to e85 and more boost.I haven't made a pass with the auto...

Totally new to the auto game and I'm trying to get my car to stall up on the convertor in a timely matter so I can make a few track passes. It will only stall up to @ 2200 rpm and 2-3 psi without nitrous. I have a 50hp wet shot installed at the moment. Im going to set it to come on @ 2k rpm and...

When I did the 3g shifter in my 1g, it would just beep if 4th gear was disabled. Try holding the upshift button on the shift box, or the shifter while in 3rd gear. It should unlock 4th if that is your problem. If that doesn't work the problem is something else. I've installed three 3g shifters...

Thanks Marty, this is the part we were texting about the other night. I've talked to Aaron, and John already too with no luck. I'll send him a message and see if he has one, or knows where to get one.

I'm attempting to rebuild my first auto transmission and I am having trouble finding/identifying a part. There is a single 7 teeth plate in with the clutches that is called "rear clutch pressure plate". It is number 11 in the picture attached... If anyone has a part number or knows where I can...

Ultra Grey, or Honda Bond is what I use also. I use Honda Bond because I have a buddy that works at a dealership and always brings me tubes and tubes that he doesn't use/need on jobs he does. Honda Bond does seem a little harder to remove though...

Lando also moderated our local forum "carolina dsm" back in the day. Last I saw of him he moved from the Genesis to a Challenger years ago.

No, with the smart 100 you can set your own shift points and a lot of other features. I believe the smart 50 will let you do the same, but with a few less features than the 100. Check out their website and you can compare the boxes.

I believe the turbo tcu has different shift points than the non-turbo. I would honestly go with a shift box. Ive had great luck with the forced four boxes personally.

Shifter, shifter cable, flexplate, converter, and some way of controlling the trans (shift box (easiest), or tcu). And I would swap the pedals also and use the auto mounts.

I purchase replacement sensors through local auto parts stores. Volkswagen also uses Bosch wideband sensors in some of their cars, just make sure you get the correct sensor (4.2 or 4.9), so cross-reference the part number. My replacement was @ $55 with a online discount. It also comes with a 1yr...

I was going to do the same kind of set-up when I did my auto swap, but never got too far into it before I ended up going with the 3g shifter instead...

I ran across this video that is supposed to be Mitsubishi's new rendering of the new 3000gt. I have been trying to find some other information without any luck, such as engine, drivetrain, price, cost, ECT... I did notice that it has TURBO on the front fender behind the tire, so that is one good...

He is actually into cars a little. I ran into him one day while I was driving my talon, at the time he had a BMW i8. He has opened free car lots, free banks, free stores, bites up entire grocery stores and donated to homeless shelters, has competitions to give away all types of things. Last...

U think that's some coin.....lol He is local to where I live. He does all kinds of crazy videos, and helps out a lot of people.

I've always used vht paint or the high temperature paint that is used for grills with good results that lasted. On transmissions, I use Duplicolor ceramic aluminum engine paint and it holds up great also.

Someone buy this thing before I decide to build another car....

Still taking offers...

+1 for the Firestone Indy 500's. They are the same tire as the Bridgestone Re-11. I put a set on my car after I completed the auto swap and they hooked good on the street. I was running fd wheels and 225/50/16's. Check out the reviews for them on tire rack also...

Offer up... ready to get this thing out of the way.

Still for sale..

Bump.... send offers.

Found one more..

I'll see if I can find some better ones..

Pic..

I have a freshly rebuilt, 1g auto awd transmission. Transmission was just rebuilt by Aaron Gregory. New kiggly clutches, shift kit, welded center diff, ect... The plan was to use this in my personal auto swapped car, but I ended up selling my car last week, so I have no use for it at the...

$1700 obo...

Precision 6466 turbo T3 .82 exhaust housing Just recieved it back from Precision for a complete rebuild, and brand new billet compressor wheel. Just removed from box to take pics. Basically brand new at a discounted price. Retail is $2100, asking $1800 obo.PM, or call/text 252-481-7214

Here is a video I made a few days ago of a cold start of my car for a potential buyer. 2150's on pump 93, probably @ 40° at the time I made the video. Idle is at 1k rpm, which is where I set the idle to on all my cars with cams, and a bunch of other mods...

There are 2 wires that need to be jumped on the auto harness park/neutral safety switch plug...(this plug is located in the engine bay on your auto harness) If they are not jumped it will not let the starter engage.

Either one of them should work fine, but I recommend using copper spray on whichever gasket you use. I have reused gaskets numerous times that I have copper sprayed and none have leaked.

From the ones I have actually used myself...Yokohama s drives (discontinued now I believe) Firestone firehawk indy 500 (what I have now) General Altimax artics (on my brothers car)All of the them hook decent on the street and track. Best 60ft of 1.62 when I was 5 speed, to be determined on...

Have u tried out those Hankook"s yet? If so, did they work well for you? We tried a set on one if our cars and it was worse than the street tires we use. They have a hard sidewall, and I believe are more suitable for a road course tire. We ran the 245/45/16.

1g, smart 100.1, auto swapped, no tcu...same setup I'm running in my car. There are a few other videos on my channel also.

Nice, you are only @ 30 minutes from me then...

Where do you live in eastern NC? I'm in Greenville myself. Record high tomorrow, then 70's by the weekend.... high 60's next week lol.

Which wastegates are you using? I know my tial has multiple top ports, and the ones you are not applying boost to have to be plugged off. If left open, the boost being applied to the top port will just leak out.

Yes, u need to see it to the 5° mark on the timing cover using a timing light and engine running. Your cas being off like that throws your timing off under all conditions.