The clutch is directly coupled to the motor the instant it fully engages. Therefore, any torque that is measured at the input to the transmission is still just a function of total engine torque, once the clutch is engaged. During the time it is in the process of engaging, any excess power not...
Since when? Did you read the article I linked to up there ^ ?If the head is torqued down and the valves will stay closed, you can leak test it. Hell, it doesn't even have to be in the car.
I've read it 3 times and still haven't got a clue what I'm reading. Maybe I'm just slow today.I am however, EXTREMELY interested in some of those magic beans that somehow get 900 ft/lbs of torque out of a motor that is only capable of producing 450 ft/lbs. :D
Do a leak-down test and find out where your compression is going.1G (90-94) T/E/L 2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi
1. You need to clip the log to only the part you are wanting people to look at
2. You're running pig rich
3. You're running hot
4. You're losing air somewhere...quite a bit of it if you are on an 18G and airflow is even close to calibrated.
5. Your pull is in second gear instead of third, and...
No, it won't. The throttle cable isn't tied into the ignition circuit in any way, shape, or form.It may cause idle issues, a sticking or rough feeling gas pedal, or malfunctioning cruise control (if equipped)... but it isn't going to cause one or more spark plugs to misfire.
Correct. Properly characterized data (from Tom or Jens) for individual injectors will always be far more accurate than you can get from looking at a logged error value that is a culmination of many factors.My personal opinion is that even theoretical latency values printed on...
It is a bit confusing, which is why I purposely didn't go into a lot of detail. IMO, most people that are new to tuning end up making things worse when they try to tune deadtime by using fuel trim values. That is why I suggest just sticking with recommended or tested values.In a nut shell...
...or just reset the long term trims and don't worry about them, and simply watch CombinedFT. ;)With that said, that isn't a very good way to adjust deadtime. It's just as likely (probably more so) that CombinedFT errors are caused by airflow mis-calibration or an incorrect global fuel...
Although running the AFR a few points leaner should (in theory) give better MPG, the reality is that you will probably never be able to notice it unless you do a LOT of flat highway cruising at low loads. And since the whole point of running E85 is to get more power, well.... you see where I'm...
On the 2014.10.18 log:At first glance, it looks like something is up with your fuel flow. During the period from 34.8 to 40.2, airflow, RPM, and injector PW are steady, and the front O2 and fuel trims are acting like they should. BUT...your wideband is jumping all over the place. Since you...
Also, on the MAFComp tab in ECMLink... click the little yellow question mark at the lower right. It will bring up a page that shows the complete MAF signal chain (and other useful info).
Being what it is from who it is, I have no doubt it does what they claim. I got a good look at it last year at the SO, and it is a quality piece as expected. But IMO... that is a shit ton more CC vacuum than 99% of us would ever need or want.If you have the need for a dry sump oiling system...
There is some good discussion here, but I am going to clean up some of the personal stuff and trash talking. Please leave that on your FB pages. :)Don't take it personally if your post (or part of it) goes *poof*. ;)
More InfoIf you are fascinated by PCV-related stuff and are just dying for more, here ya go:http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/jacks-pcvhttp://www.streetfire.net/video/pcv-improvements-and-testing-for-dsm_684587.htm
This sounds like an intermittent electrical issue somewhere in the ignition path. Have you checked all wiring and connectors for broken wires, loose pins, etc?
I wasn't being a jerk; I was trying (very hard) to be tactful in telling everyone else that you need to fix your mechanical problems before focusing on log advice. And since you said your tester was inadequate, how in the hell are we supposed to believe that you truly got rid of ALL your boost...
Everyone....hold up.First of all, I don't believe the OP has completed the most basic thing there is on a DSM, which is a BLT to hold 5 PSI more than his set boost. By his own admission, his tester is not even adequate for the job. No offense, but based on that and several other comments in...
No disrespect intended towards anyone here, but many, MANY people tend to jump on a bandwagon for no apparent reason...and the topic of CC ventilation seems to have that in spades. I get tons of emails and PM's with questions about everything from adding ports to the block or weird convoluted...
I don't know what "Oh I'm sure" means, and if your question is directed at me or the previous poster, but I personally have not seen a vac pump on a DSM.I've seen some people running block vents with some success, but always on an OTA setup where you need all the available cross-sectional...
Didn't mean that to sound sarcastic, if it did. It was just a general "think about it" comment directed at the general public. :)You are correct...placement of the sensor in relation to the scavenging port is important.I have no idea who TexasTurbo is. In fact, I just asked another staff...
Everything TexasTurbo stated here is spot on, but I'll toss in a few random thoughts just for giggles.1). Some (if not most) of the big-power guys DO have crankcase issues, but it's not a major concern to them in the grand scheme of things. One point that a lot of people on this forum don't...
Knock (real or phantom) has nothing to do with why the car is running so rough at idle and low load. OP needs to figure out what is going on before beating on the car in WOT where knock is a real issue.
If you actually hear knock during a WOT pull, it's most likely too late.Did you keep testing and fixing them until you can hold 5psi above max boost? I can't recall ever seeing a car in average condition with just one boost leak.*****Follow this, and then post a log in the tuning help forums.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-upgrade-paths.486217/Not to be rude, but with that mod list I think you are in over your head if you are asking how to get more power. Anyone with those mods should already have a healthy knowledge of what they have and what they need.Looks to me like...
I've moved this to a new thread. OP, please do not jump into an existing conversation that someone has started; it makes following the thread and helping that person very difficult.
I'm going to lock this, as I think everything that needs to be said has been.OP, please start another thread with a completed checklist once you have the mechanical stuff sorted out and a WB installed.
If you are asking that question, I would suggest not doing anything at all except basic maintenance and a few months of reading and learning. You'll save yourself a buttload of time and money in the long run if you wait until you have the knowledge and resources to make the right decision.
May need rings and a hone, depending on what the failed HG let happen. If coolant got in the cylinders and it's been sitting a year, the rings are probably toast and the cylinder walls may need some TLC.You should also plan on new plugs and wires, hoses, belts, and vac lines.I would be...
That's the other thing I saw that would make me consider it if he will come down a bit. An unmodded 1G AWD with 70k on it is usually worth a little more than what most people realize.Another big factor in how much it is worth is how capable you are of doing work on it. If you are handy with...
I didn't either.But, considering how much more difficult it is becoming to find rust free and fairly clean 1G AWD's... I wouldn't be too quick to write it off completely.