another

Here is my buddy's car with Nascar bars in it. His doors are gutted. Trying to find 1G side windows with sliders. Might have to have a race shop make em custom.

Ali I have these bearings if you need em. NIB OEM Mitsu ;)

Wow that's a sick piece! I want one! ;)

Def and ATR. I have a NOS muffler I'm putting on my 2G. Had these in the old days. Best sounding exhaust ever! Def loud.

Hey all,If you're on Facebook, I've been posting a ton of DSM parts the last few weeks. I'm located near Hartford and would love to sell locally at a good price. If you need anything let me know. I can provide references. I've already bought and sold with local guys. I have too much to list...

I bought a 98 TSi AWD all original from an older woman 1 owner car. She definitely wasn't on here as she wasn't an enthusiast. But the vin was up there with 42K miles as last known. I submitted an update with all the features and specs but I wonder how he got her data. Was he able to obtain DMV...

I feel pretty blessed that I've gotten to see all of Phil's Talons, his Archer Daytona, and all his DSM and Archer memorabilia as of late. It's quite a sight to see all his cool stuff and don't even get me started on his parts dept... I mean his basement. We're great friends and have known each...

Newington here. Long time DSM'er. My first Eclipse was in 1995.

HI all,90 Transmission grinds 3rd. needs overhaul $15095 manifold $50EBC front slotted/dimpled rotors/pads $12592-94 big front calipers $150/prEVO 9 MR wheels (2 have some curbage which can be fixed) $700 or B/O.Dejon Tools short route race FMIC kit (like brand new...

HI all,90 Transmission grinds 3rd. needs overhaul $15095 manifold $50EBC front slotted/dimpled rotors/pads $12592-94 big front calipers $150/prEVO 9 MR wheels email me for photos $700 or B/O.Dejon Tools short route race FMIC kit (like brand new cond) flanged for HKS all...

I have no idea. No name on it. Just the standard tubular ones you see on alot of cars.

Uh if your'e going through a financial crisis you shouldn't be buying Evo wheels. But to answer your question I'd sell the wheels for $800 by themselves.They didn't make an OE rear strut bar in 91. It's an aftermarket one.

6 bolt long block 95 pistons big rods no balance shafts, reground cams, fresh head overhaul with stainless valves and springs. runs great. SOLD90 xfer case $7590 Transmission grinds 3rd. needs overhaul $150Turbochargers.com 16G turbo internally gated no shaft play runs well SOLD95...

The IPS is dead on the car. However it was both plugged in and unplugged on the old car and never set a code or broke up under moderate to heavy throttle position. Remember everything is the same except the harness. I don't see why it would start most importantly, breaking up, and set a code now.

Ok here is the scenario. Had 94 TSi ran well but old beat up rusted chassis. Swapped engine, trans, ecu complete into 91 TSi chassis. Only difference is harness used in 91. Everything else from 94.So I now have CEL on code 14 stored for TPS. Check connections at TPS, all ok. swap ECU to...

I'd use Accurate Auto Machine in Middletown. Northeast F'ed up my head on my car. Can't even seat valves in right. Comp is 155 180 180 125. Leaked it down after head was done and intake valve in cyl 4 is leaking bad, exhaust valve in cyl 1 is leaking. Not good... Then I call and tell them what...

They're EVO MR wheels with 225/45/17" Conti Extremecontact DWS tires. Simply bad ass.

Thanks. Too bad I just sold my 94 Tsi roller. Well traded it for the rims and MAF T like I think i mentioned.Here is another shot of the car on it's new sneakers... :cool:

Here is my new one almost done.

I did a trade for my white 94 shell but I've seen them on ebay for as much at 300 a wheel. I'd consider selling these for $1000 w/o tires.

the first one with stock wheels was takin in 97. The drag launches were takin at DSM shootout in 98 The new blue ones were in summer 99.Yea I'm old and been into DSM's a long time.

I traded an explorer for my 94 TSi AWD car with rebuilt motor, 16G, FMIC, brakes, etc.. etc... I had $1000 into the explorer total investment. Body was rough on 94. Bought a clean 91 roller for $500 and swapped everything into 91. Total investment $1500.00 Also got MR wheels in that deal.

Here are a few pics of my 91 Talon AWD... the next few are after I painted it.I just picked up an identical twin 91 Talon TSi awd that i'm building as we speak.

Here are some pics of my 91 TSi AWD project. Almost done. Gonna be my daily driver.Coming to a street near you soon. :hellyeah:

Bullett I just realized who you are. I'm Adam's uncle Scott. I met you a while back when I was trying to help you step son with his 2G spyder. How ya been? I guess PM me, don't wanna hijack Phil's post anymore then I already have. I'll tell ya bout my new DSM project.Phil, good job and nice...

Hi,Do you have a 3" ATR cat back system for 1G AWD? Want a Thermal exhaust 3". I'm looking to trade. Please PM me if you do.

Phil I read a bunch of your thread and looked at the galant pics. It all looks awesome man. We need to hang out sometime.

Hey Phil94 TSi AWD white and 91 TSi AWD blue here. Oh you didn't know? :hellyeah:

Plan for alot of time to lift it back in and align it. It's a PITA till ya get the hang of it. Remove the battery and battery tray for extra left arm room. Lift the trans and have a buddy slide a jack under it. Jack it up till just below the point where it starts to bump stuff. This will help...

I think I listed most of the variables however there is one important one. If they didn't cut the step on the flywheel properly it will cause this issue. Cant remember the spec on the depth. Maybe someone can chime in that figure.

I was a service manager at Mitsu and I can tell you that if the car was in an impact you need a module. The module is a one crash only unit that needs to be replaced if the bags were deployed. See if someone is parting a car out to save some money.

I've seen it happen and I know they are not that complex. The bottom line is, hook your wastegate directly to a vacuum source. Generally the input side of your factory boost solenoid is the best one. You can also T into your vacuum hose going to your BOV. You want it to be taken somewhere...

You really need to plastic gauge all the bearings. It sounds like you have one or more rod bearings to tight. None the less you need to plastic gauge them all. Start over with plastic gauge and it'll tell ya if your tolerances are within spec. You could have to little tolerance on the mains as...

IF you have no free play the piston in the clutch master cylinder could be extending past the resevoir hole to the slave cylinder effectually locking the system. I'd start with adjusting your free play. I usually adjust it until there is approx 1/2-3/4" free play. From there if you still have a...

Its far from the "best" exhaust relating to maximum flow and HP gains which is what determines best for most of us gear head racers. Maybe looks and sound it's "best" for you but you can't argue performance facts.

Only Mitsu Eclipses and Galants said Mitsubishi on them.All others, i.e. Talon, Lasers, just said DOHC 2000 (no Mitsu signage)Hyundais obviously said something else but can't remember what.It really is that simple... No need to worry bout JDM/USDM 6 bolt, 7 bolt etc... It's Chrysler...

You'd be much better off to find an unused spot in your fuse box and run wiring off of there. It's a much cleaner and professional job. If you splice into an existing circuit you may overload it's amperage capacity and blow fuses and or fry something. You'll need wire, pins to connect into back...

I had CFDF (centerforce dual friction) in my 295whp AWD and it didn't last very long at all. I'd do an ACT 2600 (also called extreme pressure plate) and street disk. When and, "if" you get to 400-500hp you'll likely need a new disc anyways. At that point I'd do a custom clutchmasters clutch...

:nono: It's if not impossible near impossible to take it out w/o removing trans first or at same time. You're best bet would be to unbolt the knuckleand slide the knuckle and axle off as a unit. That'd be way easier.

You'd probably have to buy a factory service manual. It's definately worth the investment.

I work at a car dealer (Ford LOL) and we get lots of broken bolts. You should be able to weld a bolt or "nut" with the mani on the car. Mig it up mang!

I have a few spare stock 5 speed 1G injectors. Lemme know if you need one.

Yea sounds like MBC is F'ed.

The most common and most overlooked cause of idle surge is the BISS (Base idle speed screw) o-ring dries out and air leaks by the adjuster. You can buy them at Mitsu for dirty cheap.

Yea low 40's is average but it really depends on your engine management, tune, etc... Depends on who tunes and how. Most people set FP and then tune accordingly but small FP adjustments can be used as a tuning tool.

I've never seen a 1G kit that I like until I just saw that 1st red one above. SO generally ricer IMO but there are exceptions to every rule.

Not personally but I know others who have and they work well. MUch better than the Nitto drags.

We usually weld another short bolt to it and turn it out. If the carbide extractor is broken off in it you don't have much choice other than removing the manifold and bringing it to a machine shop with a drill press.

They do not start high then go low. Sounds like a bad cluster or wiring issue.