Damn I’m so jealous. I’ve wanted to road trip a dsm for years. Used to make the 500 mile trip to Las Vegas all the time. Was so much fun. But that was early 2000s!
Never have I seen that sequence before. I’d go by the one on the service manual since it’s what has worked for all of us over the years. Without pulling out my fsm, Pretty sure it’s the same as the 1g.Would be curious what ARP has to say about that sequence they are giving out.
So I think about this on the daily and want to know what others think. I’ve seen these cars bring so much money and it seemed like it happened over night. I was at a point around here it was looking like it wasn’t going to survive. I just about dumped every shell I have sitting here and started...
It’s pretty thin so it’ll be kinda hard to thread a fitting on there. And of course welding something on is out of the question also. I’d just carefully bend it out of the way and move along on that one.
I carefully bend all mine as well. Besides kinks the only other thing to watch out for is where it connects to the gate itself. Can crack pretty easy and leak.
@Ludachris was a pleasure meeting you when we came over. Never expected food and a football game 😆 But really, it was cool to see in person how passionate you are about this site. Really do have a lot of respect for you and all the years of putting up with these crazy dsm people. It really is a...
10.99 on the 6cm and be done. If I’m not mistaken Joe B. Made his passes with the 6cm. I was going to but didn’t have a good one laying around so found me a nice e3 7cm to run.2000lb 14b is enough to run the numbers I ran. Very interested to see your results.
Ya this auto car I’m messing with will stay 100% street car. It’s been since 2003 the last time I ran a 14b on a real street car. So having one now is a lot of fun. Plus I get to get a ton of data for my fwd. See what I can really do with this turbo.
Well I’ll help out here. After pushing the 14b hard on my race car, I decided I wanted to mess around with one on a street car. Pretty much starting from scratch.Now that I have a 14b bolted up to a running street car I’ll be posting in here more often. I have a small update on how I ran last...
Wow that’s pretty light for an awd. Well it be cool to see ya make it back out for some more runs.I’m jumping back to it as we speak. Tossing everything in my auto awd to sort out some parts I wanna use. Gonna give me time to clean up my fwd chassis and maybe get the body work and paint done...
@Steve93Talon you plan on making more passes?? What’s the weight of the car if you don’t mind me asking?Pretty cool what you’ve done. Not something one would think about.
It’s not really more accurate. Nothings more accurate than a true airflow reading. You can’t get that with SD. SD is easier to deal with for higher hp levels.Op, SD with link is gonna be the easier option. Especially with link.
Yup I’m one of those guys. These cars being around 30 years old for the 1gs, I’d hate to see them disappear. I was very lucky to grab up all the ones I have now for so cheap. Now to continue to find these hard to find parts lol.Glad I decided to drift away from FB for a night. Wouldn’t have...
Nice seeing fwds still out making good passes.Mines been tore apart still since I got the cage done. Hoping to drop the engine in over winter and make some passes next year.
So I know I was saying how hard it is to get these SBEs, I just acquired this out of a 90gst with 128k. Internally the walls look super clean. I had a plan of dropping a stock block back in my fwd because it be way cooler resetting stock turbo records without a built engine. Who knows where this...
I did not work the stock cams. They are still set to zero.All I’m saying is cams are definitely a needed upgrade between the 300-400whp level. That’s all.
No, my point is I’m saying that ain’t right he ages under 400whp cams are 100% a great upgrade. Anything in the upper 200s deserve and upgrade. We wouldn’t have made 325whp on stock cams with what we got going on. Degreeing them isn’t gonna give us that magical HP. The cams are what gave us the...
That’s not true at all. An advertised 256-272 cam is perfect for those power levels. We dialed in an old grind BC 272 on a 16g pump has setup made 325 to the wheels. Hits peak torque at 4k. But it made its peak power at 7k. This thing has a super wide powerband over what we had on the stock...
Man I started with building models. Been so long tho. Got so many unfinished kits. Funny thing is I dug them out a month or so ago. Just need extra time.
Quick question, where are you pulling your oil pressure reading from? There’s a few different spots and you’ll get a slightly different reading. Some ports on the ofh are pre filter and some are post filter. The reading can be 5-10psi different. Then there’s the reading off the head port feeding...
325awhp on the dyno we are running 850s and only 60-62%idc. On pump anything bigger is a waste. But I will also say on the street we get up to 72-75%idc. Idk how much more power that is but should give an idea.
Kelfords really aren’t ideal for a bolt on style turbo. Way to much overlap which ends up robbing higher rpm horsepower. Need a cam with negative overlap to help in the higher rpms.
All this talk about what they should be at or what they could do is just bench racing. First off a 20g comp wheel stuff in a 16g housing isn’t gonna make much difference in power at 20psi. That wheel won’t shine until you start getting up higher in boost where the 16g wheel starts to fall...
I personally wouldn’t go with gsc or kelford with that setup. 350-400 id go with what these other guys suggested and find at least an HKS272s. 264s would be a tad small. Another good cam I see that pops up would be FP2s. Stick with the older style stuff if you can.