I'm in Richmond. I could take a look at it, if you want.

Last summer

Playing around with my new camera. The mileage on the engine is unknown. Been in the car over 10 years now. Car runs fine as is. How bad is this scoring?Cylinder 1Cylinder 12344

I vote Mazda too. Anything from the skyactiv range has been toyota reliable but with better steering and body control. When buying a daily you really need to go as new as you can. That way you get all the safety systems and technology, which is more important than your weekend toy. I have my own...

That all depends on the outside temperature and if you were running AC or not. In Florida my car would run fine with the AC off but as soon as AC was on the temp would rise to 225F. These cars have very little surface area to get air in and even then it's not very efficient.

I think those giving experiences should include if they are still running AC or not as it makes a massive difference. But since you have your condenser removed you should be getting enough airflow. What are you AFRs like at idle and cruise? If they are too rich or lean it will run hot

Mine are still holding up fine. No cracking or peeling yet. If you can get the right clear then the plastidip holds up.

Finally got this figured out. Sent the ECU to ecmlink and they identified that the damage from the leaking cap had caused 2 problems. First it was preventing the ECU from reading battery voltage and causing the ISC to remain fixed. The second, was preventing battery backup voltage to the...

Laptop took a dump 😔. Try to get one after black friday.No leaks at 10psi. Timing is lined up.Agreed. With zero isc movement the car will probably struggle to start now its getting cold.

They look black but don't appear wet. I cleaned them off then ran it for 10secs (first pic) then ran it for a 1 min.Think I'm going to order all new plugs and wires again and see if it clears upThey all look kinda similar. Injectors were just tested and cleaned at FICThinking it may be the...

Yep. Wont even try to start if i switch them. Is the lack of working isc really causing all this?

I can't keep up with the crap I've replaced lol. If I plug the old igniter in it will not run at all anymore. So it was dead but I just don't understand what else is going on

I switched it with a spare yes. Nothing changed.

Car lost power and started vibrating while driving. Pulled over and checked the wires and noticed it was running only from cylinder 1 and 4. So I figured power transistor. Well while I was there I figured I'd do a few things such as new gaskets, test and clean injectors, new knock sensor and...

With our front bumpers that thing will be rubbing the ground.

Woah this thread ran away somewhere. Okay firstly, I said my hx let go. It did not blow up so sorry for the wording. It began smoking the day after the track. Justin couldn't identify the failure but both wheels were damaged with no oil contamination. I assumed it was heat related due to being...

I'd love to find a fp housing for my holset. They are by far the best bolt on housing.My car just doesn't seem to want to make power running pump gas and 9:1 compression. I'm no tuning expert and I'm sure there's still some more potential in it. The last time I was at the track my holset let...

Aren't the .82 housing based off the newer PTE housing with better quality casting and design??The red would be a downgrade to a hx40. I was just looking at the zero because they are going for $600 off and would be the highest flowing bolt on available.

So no notable difference in lag between the .70 and .82? It's much cheaper and should be more pump gas friendly.

Forced Performance are having a sale on their dsm zero.Need opinions on running this in place of my hx40 w/.55 bolt on housing. I have been thinking about switching to a t3 manifold and either the .70 or the .82 t3 housing. Goals are 400-450hp on pump gas 2.0 and 9:1 compression if its...

The whole point of the bar is to stiffen up the chassis. Installing a bar with soft brackets and useless adjustability is just adding weight. You can push on the bars with minimal force and they bend. People tend to think the adjustments were to "force" in the shock towers, in reality it's...

Those pos bars from megan are worth like $50. Just buy DC bars

Hope you mean $80Make sure to buy a solid bar not an adjustable one. The adjustable ones do nothing but add weight and get in the way.

For a street car you really want a vacuum source to help venting since you will see lower speeds and more idling. For a track car just venting to the atmosphere is usually preferred since you are at full boost most of the time and you change the oil often.

5 quarts is less than $30. If you can't afford that and own a dsm you're in a world of hurt.

Did you order one? I got one from rockauto a few months ago just in case. This is much cheaper then most places I've seen.

I love dsms as much as the next member but I would never stick a family member in a Mitsubishi product. Just so much better options out there for daily drivers.

I would not recommend drilling and tapping the fuel rail. If you mess up you have a potential bad day coming. If you really want to install a gauge so that you can look at it (thats about all you will do running thr stock fpr) then do it at the feed before the rail. If you have a male to male...

I'm confused why you need a fuel pressure gauge if you're running the stock fpr. It is what it is.

Agreed. The drain is more important than the supply. You can run either -4an or -3an with no restrictior but make sure you use a large drain.

If only Mitsubishi gave a damn about us and started producing a few parts like Toyota and Nissan are.

Just thought I'd share how I repaired my drip moldings since they are no longer available and any used one probably has seen better days. In the past I just did a light sanding and repainted them with plasti dip. Problem with this is you can see the areas where the original rubber has worn away...

If you are looking to just lower your car than the cheap coilovers are fine. But if you want a decent ride and good handling then most of them are a waste of money=junk. Spending $500 to have your head hit the roof on every bump and then have oil leaking out of them after 2 years isn't...

Having no issues doesn't mean they are good. Any coilover less than $1000 are junk. Most notable would be K sports and Megans. A lot of coilovers don't come with spherical top mounts and use cheap shocks/struts with poor valving.

A lot of coilovers for our cars are crap. A spring and Koni combination is better than 80% of them.

I had nothing but problems with my MTX-L. Been running the AEM x series now for 2 years with zero issues.

Mine are all helicoiled as it provides a more reliable and stronger thread. Just make sure they are straight.

Rock auto sensor

I wonder if we can just smother the back end with silicone or jb weld to stop the damn things from leaking. I just ordered one for the future since Mitsubishi doesn't give two shits about us.

https://www.thedrive.com/news/31780/toyota-is-making-all-new-parts-for-your-80s-and-90s-supraNissan and now Toyota are helping out enthusiasts with new parts from the factory. If only Mitsubishi would give a toss about all of us DSMers. We could get window trims, evo 3 gearing, rear diff parts...

With the lack of information you gave us 1-1000hp.

8 grand for a paint job on a car worth less seems a bit excessive. You can get a good quality paint job from a good local shop for under 4k.

Remove bottom line, remove top line, remove Greddy BOV and place in trash, buy a TiAl ROFLBut seriously, use the top line to an single vacuum line uninterrupted to the intake manifold.

Any auto store or lowes/home depot will have different options for 1/2" drive ratchets and extensions. You'll need a 1/2" for a lot of things for more torque so you may as well get one now.

No offense but it looks god awful and will most likely tear off in a week.

Nope. That's where your radiator ailment pins go into. Its weak sheet metal. The cross member right next to it is a much better spot.

No I'd recommend running red line shockproof for the transfer and rear diff.

Well the the RC weighs 4000lbs and the LFA is a very expensive carbon tub.

To add to my 3JZ point. Could you imagine the hype if Toyota developed a new 6er. The engine alone would help sell these things like crazy. Nothing wrong with the B series engines but a 3JZ with iron liners, closed deck and 400hp stock would of made up for the constant teasers and years of...

Lexus desperately needs a new engine to replace the 3.5 they use in everything. A boosted inline 6 could of been a great replacement. Slap a 3jz sticker on it with different states of tune.....done.