For those wires that are cut I would recommend you get the Factory Service Manual either in paper or electronic so you can look up what each one are. That's the only way you're going to know what is what. I can't stand when people start cutting wires. Good luck!
As a long time member, I have always appreciated the forums for what they have to offer. Even now I enjoy reading build threads here even though I don't own a DSM anymore. I hate how Facebook has monopolized so many users and data is lost over time. I am not a big fan of Facebook but it has some...
Looks great! I sure do miss it these days but I have my hands full with the other cars. Thanks for the post and hit me up on social media. I would like to see it again.
There isn't much to say except I do miss the DSM world. Evo's are totally different but still fun to drive. I will always miss my DSM. But there will be a time when I pursue one again.I have two Evo's:
2008 Evo X GSR and 2005 Evo 8 MREvo X Mods:
Stock Block
Full exhaust system with Borla...
Sorry to hear about your family and cancer. I lost two close people to me this year due to cancer. It's a tough road for both parties so keep you head up. Take care and the DSM family will be here when you need them.
Sold the car a few years ago. Haven't been on this site in a long time now. Still love those DSM's though! I now own an Evo 8 MR and Evo X (daily driver). I just can't bring myself back to the DSM game due to the harsh experience from my last car.
Glad you stuck with it! I admire those who hang with these older cars and try and to keep them running and up to date. Hope to see more from you and your build.
It was a very nice day with temperatures in the low 50's when we joined up. There were 2 DSM's and 8 Evo X's. We cruised for approximately 40 minutes and stopped to take group pictures before ending at a nearby restaurant. I'll post pictures as I download them from the camera but in the meantime...
I live near High Point and all I see are Honda's. Haven't ever seen any other DSM on the streets while driving. I guess I'm a loner in this part of the triad. There is a Mitsubishi meet November 16 where a few of us are meeting at 2:30 pm at 4 seasons town center. We are going to do a small...
Just FYI, CarolinDSM is shutting down November 30 this year. If you have anything or want to save any files from the site now is the time to do it. It's a sad time for the site, especially since I have been a part of it since 2005.
I would go with FP gt3586r. I love FP turbos and if you can afford one I would choose them. You might consider twin scroll as well and that might work better since your going with a 2.3 liter block. It also may help compensate for the 35r's laggy boost. But it hits hard when boost comes in! Good...
I only use 20w50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil. You need the zinc content for you turbo and most oils these days do not put enough zinc in their oil. I use a WIX filter and this has always done me good. Check out the article below from Forced Performance...
If you have an experienced tuner and the money and want AEM then go for it. If you don't have both then stay simple and go with link. You can find an eprom ecu here and pay for V3 and still save around $500-1000. Link as stated has many users and most are willing to help if you need it on the...
I ran AEM ems from 2006 until this year. AEM is great but has a steep learning curve. I am using link now and it is much easier to use. You can still do mostly everything with link but there are other functions I wish I had back. I still have my AEM and probably won't get rid of it until I know...
I had some issues a few years ago with cooling and I bought an aluminum radiator with slimline fans. I also installed a 180 degree thermostat. The last mod I did was notch out an open area in the two black pieces on the top of the front bumper. That helped a lot because it forces air directly...
I drove a 93 eclipse for 7 years back and forth while in college and grad school. It was the non-turbo version (4g63) and very reliable. However, depending on the current condition of your car and where your college is located will determine whether it is feasible or not to drive your GSX. I...
Check the throttle for any cracks in that area. Do you still have the egr valve in place and using it? If not then you might be able to delete the coolant lines running to that area. That may solve your problem. Good luck!
It appears to be a 1G throttle body by your measurement. Call STM and confirm with them. It only costs 10 bucks for a pair of gaskets plus shipping. I would get both and have an extra if you need it later down the road.
If I was you I would not change anything on this car. It will be a very sought after car in the future if you leave it in factory condition. Does it run good, if so don't change it. I wouldn't even change the turbo if the factory one is still in good running condition. Just my 2 cents. Very nice...
To check for air you will need to take the radiator cap off and crank the car up. As it warms up the t-stat housing will open up and if there any leaks in the system they come out. Recap when finished. As far as the front mount it has nothing to do with cooling the car when at idle. It is most...
I run AEM (air/fuel, oil, and boost gauges) on the a-pillar. I also have an autometer water and egt mounted beneath the radio. Get mechanical gauges if possible. Don't buy any ebay gauges for they worthless and you will waste your money.
Why didn't you rebuild the motor that was already in the car? Would have cost a little more and would not have to stress over someone selling you junk. I say rebuild the old motor and put it back in. Good luck.
Your best bet is to find a factory service manual. It will help out a lot when determining what goes to what. I found a two set volume on ebay for $30. Good luck.
Go to Wal mart and buy a bike rack. You will have to extend the straps to fit the hatchback but it will work. I raced bikes and carried it many miles on the back of my 1g. Don't bother with spending more that it's worth unless you are paranoid about something happening. I never had any paint or...
You could search all day and night and never find a car for a decent price that was close to being perfect. My suggestion to you is, fix the motor and then decide what to do next. No matter what it is, it will cost you money. Don't look at the money and how much you invest. Look at how it will...
It indicates that the board has gotten hot enought to melt part of the resin but may be ok. Check for any breaks, burnt spots, or blown capacitors. These are obvious things and if you don't see them then your ecu might be ok. If you have doubts, post a couple pics here and we can check for you...
Did your oil filter break loose from the housing? Did you check your turbo lines to be sure that they are not leaking? How low was it when you stopped running the motor?
Make sure that the pin is not grounded to the car. If it is then the pump will run all the time while the key is in the ignition and the ecu is plugged up. The wire would typically not be grounded to the car but only to the ecu. I forget which pin it is but it can be found in the wiring diagrams.
Is it in the transmission all the way and bolted up to the block? If not, try turning it a little and putting a little pressure on it so that it slides into the tranny. Need more details to help you any further.
Personally, I like ExtremePSI a lot better. They are also having a sale and will ship all item within the same day of purchase. I bought my parts and recieved them within 2 days. Good luck and think this through before spending any money.
One question you can ask yourself, which model looks better to you? Is it a 1g or a 2g, that is the question. I chose a 1g first because I love the way they look. Modding them can easily be done but the cars appearance and body style will always stay the same, unless you wreck it of course. Good...
I have seen the red interiors. Had a friend own one in high school. I hate that color for the interior. Who came up with it? I don't know but I could kick them right in the *** for it. Don't go with that color please. ;)
For height, make sure it is below the t-stat housing so it will drain into the catch can. As far as placement, I would try and put it as close to the factory position as you can. There are several places you can bolt it into but will require drilling and tapping holes. It all depends on where...