There's a dye kit you can get locally or online that will pinpoint your leaks very easily. Judging from the placement of oil on the coolant pipe I'd say check near the factory turbo oil feed port.

To actually answer your question. Yes. Yes you can. I would follow the manufacturers recommendations for inspecting the pump. My Waterman still looks brand new on the inside I just send it to get the shaft seals replaced once every couple years.

I also ended up with an ipt but will likely move to a jbd unit later down the road.

I've had a sprag fail in mine... twice. To be fair I'm almost positive it was a pump issue. Swapped the pump and converter and never had another failure in the same trans.

What do you think caused the backfire? spraying too much at too low of an RPM? Im asking because i've been using nitrous to get on the converter for years injecting in pretty much the same spot and i haven't had an issue but i damn sure don't want to run into that lol

Magnus Bracket, Waterman pump, Aeromotive mechanical pump regulator, 10an ptfe lines (feed and return), Magnus rail, sumped stock tank, TDC 2200 injectors.

You'll run into the same issue with a magnus unit. I used a tight radius swivel type fitting on it and no it doesn't and hasn't leaked even at fuel pressures well above 100psi.* This is the fitting I used. It was name brand at least...

Yup. I've had bad fuel do that to me before. Drain the tank and get some from another station.

I have the stock tank sumped with a check valve and a T for the stock pump to prime the line. Works flawless.

Honestly upgrading to v3 and ditching the maft setup is going to alleviate a lot of headaches you may run into.

If you plan to stay with the maf there's no reason you can't run v2.

I thought Franks discontinued the dsm stuff?

Try some of scott lairds videos on youtube. I'm not on my tuning laptop so i can't view the log. Generally you want to make a nice smooth afr table and leave it alone, start with a conservative timing table (stock 2g works) just so it isn't knocking when you make a pull. Use your SD table to...

It won't matter if you found a tuner if you keep making pulls like the ones you posted pictures of. ECMlink is pulling 11 degrees of timing up top which is a healthy dose of engine knock. Also I hope that you're tuner is going to stick the car on a dyno equipped with a wideband readout as I...

Scott laird is "v8s_are_slow" on this forum you may try to PM him. If you're looking to have work done/tune I would recommend Mike Amerson at TDC performance in Mobile, AL. Obviously you would need to trailer or tow the car to him but i consider him one of the best in the south.

We're few and far between when it comes to dsms down here. Wont find the faster guys on the forums or fb but there are a couple 9 sec cars around. The only other dsm I've seen around here is Jake from MS who came down to race me.

So auto gurus I need some help pointing me in the right direction. This is my first auto dsm. The car will slip when upshifting into 3rd gear taking about 2 secs to actual engage the gear. All other gears shift instantly and firmly.- It will downshift just fine from 4th to 3rd.- If i flip...

Look. Into the promatic. You can install a 5spd shifter boot over the handle for a super clean look as well.

There are none to my knowledge that are a simple bolt-in affair however most any ratchet style shifter can be made to work. I will likely look into getting a promatic 2 but recently been toying with the idea of a 3g manumatic with a shift box.

you can actually use some seals for a b18 integra. Available at the local autoparts store.

Yes sir! halfway done wiring it now. I'm actually using some extra plugs and things i had lying around to make a "almost" plug-and-play harness lol. Thanks again guys!

TY very much sir just wanted someone to confirm!

So I've done some searching and haven't come up with much in the way of answers. I have an Dynatek ARC-2 ignition with the plug and play harness. Well my transistor has pooped out twice in the last 6 months or so and I've decided I no longer need it. This is a track/weekend car.I'm pretty...

I've been doing this for almost 2 years 50 hours a week. I love driving my car so getting paid to do it works out great. There's no point in speeding around its a waste of gas for what might be 2 to 3 deliveries at the end of a shift. Mind you this is in a mildly modified 1g (~450 whp). I've...

Could be wrong here but I'm pretty sure delta grinds these sticks for FFWD.I'm also running the 272s with supertech duals. I had to use the shims on all lifters as well . The car pulls all the way to 9k on a hx35. You can use some timing advance to dial out the lumpy idle for the most part...

Honestly there's no where close I would take my car to get tuned lol. BUT there are some people who do some really sick remote tunes that could help you out. If you just want to dyno it Corr performance has the only AWD dyno around (i think). They are not very familiar with ECMLink from my...

Compression test and leak down test it. Chances are if they timing slipped in the first place then valves made contact with the pistons.

I'll most likely be heading up there Wednesday or Thursday morning and be coming back the same night I don't know what my work schedule is yet so I'm not positive on which day. What kind of issues are you having

yup still a few of us around. ill be headed through mccomb next week on my way to brookhaven

The 1g 6 bolt motors are less known for it. All 7 bolts seem more prone however the 98-99 7 bolts have a better thrust washer design.

Any motor can suffer from "crank walk".

Indeed the clutch sticking to the floor is cause for concern. I would check the end play on your crank shaft before you put anymore money into it. Also drain the oil and remove the filter, cut it open to check for bearing material.

I agree with the XTD 4. Its a great budget clutch although it isn't the most streetable setup out there.I would recommend you get the South Bend SS pressure plate and TZ-series disc. It's a great setup, holds tons of power, last a long time, and you basically can't ruin the disc from glazing...

Yup it's always a good idea to get it milled. It removes any high/low spots on the head surface and helps head gasket sealing.BTW 3" IC piping while it cant hurt, is a bit much for a 20g. Your money would be better spent elsewhere.

Yes those 2.They are no longer used with the 1g CAS.I cap my wires off by folding a small piece of electrical tape over the end then slip some shrink wrap over that and shrink it down. This way there is no moisture getting in the wiring but it would likely be fine to just fold them back...

As I read my previous post it can seem somewhat confusing. Ill fix it here.

from what I can tell everything looks correct on the adapter harness. A better picture on the timing belt side of the harness would help.Also tape those wires that were cut from the 2g cas plug. It's never a good idea to leave wires exposed like that.

I forgot to add this tidbit. You may want to set the car to TDC and pull the CAS to make sure it's not 180* off.It should line up like this with the car at TDC with the notch on the spline matching the small notch on the housing:

Pull the MPI relay and plugs. You can put a few drops of oil onto the piston to help lube the walls up :sneaky:.Then crank it a few times for 15-20 secs at a time.Put everything back together and give her a go.

In order from easy to use to harder: (ymmv) 1: SAFC (or other similar piggy-back) Very limited in it's tuning capability. 2: DSMlink/ECMlink 3: Standalone (AEM v2, Motec, Megasquirt, ETC) I would only recommend these for all out drag cars. They tend to lack the features for easy fine-tuning in...

The factory tune would be your "basemap". The ECU code should still be in it's stock configuration. Also to change this code you will need a cable to connect your laptop through your OBD port.If it were me, i would remove the SAFC and return the wiring to it's factory state, throw some stock...

I would not recommend open-source tuning for someone with little to no experience on this platform as there are no "safety nets". ECMlink is pretty idiot proof(no insult intended) and will most likely be anything you'll ever need. Also you mentioned a AEM wideband, while it is a decent...

Yup a tool kit for the timing belt like this one. Some beer, time, band-aids, and a dictionary of cuss words.

The car is most likely dying because you have a boost/vacuum leak. You do have the BOV recirculated right? BLT the car again and fix all of the leaks, be sure to check around the injectors, throttle body, and intake manifold gasket. The ticking noise is most likely unrelated and probably caused...

Amazon: 3g lifters

If I did this my car would have more stickers than dash.

Not sure why all the 420a talk came up but the result will have been the same. Expect all/most of the valves to be bent. I have seen the valves put holes in piston tops and valves break causing havoc on the CC and make a head "unusable" for the most part. If it were me I would be a complete...

Call precision and ask for an injector seal kit or many of the vendors carry the kit (Extreme PSI, STM, And others). It will come with the seals and the insulators. The seals are leaking if you see fuel dripping so change them all and lube them up before installing your injectors again.

Those are insulators not seals. The seals are inside of the bore in the fuel rail and in the boss on the intake manifold. Call precision and order you a set it will come with everything you need. Also, while this fuel leak IS a big issue, it most likely is not directly related to your over...

I agree that you would benefit from a good set of aftermarket valves but I doubt you will find a full set for ~150. The link you posted was for the exhaust side only. If your power goals are ~500whp I would say go back to the oem valve.