What is the color theme you want your bay to be? You going with red, blue or custom inter cooler couplers? I like either or the blacks to be honest with you. I have also seen some custom air brushing on valve covers that come out better than anything I've even seen.Just to give you an idea...

I like the progress man. Right around this time I miss it the most.. :-( Def in good hands though

Look really good man, glad to see your going all out on this build. Just remember, keep it simple and enjoy it when its together. I miss it.. :-(I wanna fly down and take it for a spin when its done... :-)Keep up the great work

Hey Andrew!The build is looking great so far. I really like how the head liner and the seats came out! Keep up the great work. The trunk also came out very well. I like you goals for the build, however the only thing I would change is keeping it a 2.0. Here are some pics of the car when I had...

You can disconnect the turbo from manifold so you don't have to take the turbo out of the car.. You can also leave the intake manifold, TB, and the CAS. The only gasket you should need to replace is the Head gasket. I would use the 35 dollar Fel pro composite one. Use that, with some copper...

Nice Build... The only things I don't like is how the new gas tank hang down low in the rear, the glitter coolant bottle and that you are using an AFC... Other than that, the clutch can always be replace if it fails.

Thats a pretty noob question to ask for someone using emange.... The answer to run as much boost the injectors will flow without running in a lean condition and knocking. As for internals, there are people who run 35-30 psi on stock internals all day. Its a good idea to upgrade to some ARP...

Well you can always start off with learning the basics of tuning cars if you already do not know them. Learn about open loop vs closed loop, long term fuel trims vs short term fuel trims. Next is to learn about ideal a/f ratios. Like what idle and wot should be around with pump gas vs race gas...

Demand that you want a compression test done to it and the crank to be checked for endplay. It will save you alot of headaches once you buy the car. My car had around the same milage when I bought it and the crank went for a very long walk and never came back....Good luck

There are many reason that could cause your clutch to hang up. The easiest fix would simply be adjusting the master cylinder rod under your dash. There is a really good video explaining this on youtube made by jacks transmission. Other than that, it could be due to inproper clutch installation...

My guess is that your clutch was hanging up. When you pressed in the clutch, the engine would die because it was slowing your rpm's that badly. A hanging up clutch could cause excessive wear on you bearings and crank, even leading it to walk. The bottom end might be bad do to a clutch that hangs...

I asked this same question awhile back. First off adding a MAFT in a blow-thru set-up will create a major boost leak in non-boost conditions. The reason for this is that during these conditions, the PCV valve is open and is pulling fresh air from the VC port. When using a stock MAS, the VC port...

I had a pretty bad oil leak that sent oil everywhere... I was wondering what I should use to clean my Magnus and my SBR polished sheet metal exhaust manifold cover. I need something that will take the oil off but will keep the shine...Also are there any products recomended to polish them up...

How much boost are you running when you hit fuel cut. not running a boost controler will defl make you hit fuel cut every time...

eBay Motors: Ingalls Rear Camber Kit 95-99 Eclipse Talon Galant (item 350048586334 end time Apr-20-08 21:31:15 PDT)What is the other item other than the bolts and washers in this kit? It is necessary or are the longer bolts and washer all that is needed?

Search Tokico Illumina. There are alot of links with pics. DarenP has that setup and loves them. Says they are not over kill but a good upgrade from stock. They lower 1.75 according from Tokico

I did a search on the kit i am buying and there are alot of satisfied people running them. I am mostly street with some drag. At this point everything is going to be better than my shot stock setup. If you go with coil overs your def going to need camber kits for front and rear as well as an...

So there is absolutely no difference between buying something like the Ingalls or SPC rear camber kit and just going to home depot for some longer bolts and washers? For some reason I really don't like the idea of shimming it with washers

FYI: Megans, BCs, Ksports, D2s, are all made from the same parent company BC RACING The rep from JNZ tuning verified this for me. They are all shipped here the same and then the different sister companies put different spring rates in them and paint them different colors. I am in the same...

So do I guess on how many washers to use at first and then see what the specs are after the alignment? Are the Tokico springs similar to the Eibach's you have?

Can someone explain to me how I would install the washers?? Is there a write up somewhere?

After spending the last 2 hours searching for my answer, I finally have to ask for some advice. I am thinking about going with the Tokico Illuminas and spring kit. I have been reading about some people needing rear camber kits. I was reading about the washer and long bolts that RRE sells...

Was wonder how i would go about checking my base timing with my coil on plug setup?

After starting it up with the coil and wires and getting my bases down, i put my coil on plug setup on and my car wont start. I verified that i plugged it in, and i know the rubber boots went on the plugs, then the spring seated properly. Any suggestions? Do i have to unclick invert CAS in link...

nice find on that pic!So that tells me if i had an oil leak on the filter housing (oil pickup), than my turbo, whole shortblock and head would have been "starved" of oil?Could someone please explain this one for me? Should i be concerned? It sounds ok. It has always been loud especially...

I guess a better questions is in which order does oil travel through our engines?I know i turbo prob didn't see alot of pressure for those seconds, but how about the blocl and head??

After a complete block, head, and turbo build I was driving and had shit for luck. My heat wrap came unwrapped from the dump tube and wrapped around the axel. The tension that was created came up and broke the oil pressure gauge pick up. What a mess, oil was everywhere, flinging around the...

Do a compression test. If it looks good then i would try bleeding your coolant system again for air bubbles. If it still does it i would def say head gasket. If you go the metal route i would 100% use copper sray. for the 5 dollars its totally worth it and can't hurt you.have you checked...

Sounding better. Thanks for the replly, but the car is completly take apart (timing side). I have to clean all the timing gears pullys etc. I am thinking brake clean on all the engine components. I can take off my cf hood and do a very very diluted degreaser (unless something is suggested...

any cautions for when spraying under the hood? What not to spray? Red or green brake clean? I have all my belts including timing belt out (my timing belt got soaked with oil) :barf:I have to get a new one and new drive belts as well as an alternator. How about my magnus, chrome heat...

any suggestions?

I just had a recent disaster where oil ended up squirting everywhere!! My question is what should/shoudn't i use. It went on the inside of my c/f hood, rims, pully's, magnus, chrome heat sheild, plastic panels, etc.Please let me know some good SAFE chemicals i should grab that woun't mess...

Your a/f guage, is it working but just pegged? Does it read extremely lean or rich at idle? A number of things would cause this, but i'd bet a big boost leaks somewhere, especially after a new ic install. My brand new core had the biggest leak in it. BOOST LEAK TEST IT!May I ask why you got...

No one experienced this?

Thanks for the two threads turbosax but that is where my whole adventure had started. I tried the whole 2 catch can setup like the one in VFAQ and in those threads. The way stock runs it, with a catch can in each line and a check valve on the PCV line between the can and intake manifold.Here...

The check valve that is green (that you can't read the writing above) is a USPlastic Check valve 64175.( http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=45&product%5Fid=15641)The second picture is a simplified version of the first with one can.The...

Here is my problem: I have been heavily reading up on how to properly run the PCV system with catch can’s inline. However the problem I am running into is that I have a blow through setup so when I set it up like the stock configuration, the system pulls un-metered air through the PCV valve from...

should i zero out my airflow, or put it back to where i had it before?

Before was the pcv and the breather to a rre catch can with breather. I am getting the check valve, its on the way. however i have only ran my car at idle and when i put the check valve in there it is going to respond the same at idle since the valve will be open. Should i adjust my global to...

sorry for being so vague the first time. I have ditched the rre catch can and made my own out of pvc that are sealed. I have them running just like the diagram in the second link minus the check valve (on its way) and the second valve cover breather. I have a maft blowthrough so the air coming...

So from the 2nd link, what if i only have 1 breather coming from my valve cover, just just one line? Also will the setup work without a check valve for now? Wouldn't that replicate stock?

Recently I have been reading about how to run your catch can. Right now I have a RRE catch can with a breather routed to my PCV valve and my VC breather. However when I drive around with all the windows open you can smell that nasty odor coming from the breather. I trying to make it more like...

I've had an autometer oil pressure guage for about 2 years now. It has always worked fine. Today while driving, it totally scared the living sh*t out of me. It died and dropped to zero and made me think I lost oil pressure.I quickly turned the engine down and pulled over. I checked for oil leaks...

well teflon was my last resort and i only put it on the fisr 1/3 of the thread closer to the head (for the reason of it going into the oil pan). I havn't tried the crush washer, however it makes sense that would fix my problem. Will give it a try later on

I can't stop getting oil from leaking from where the bolts go into the oil pan for the oil return. The holes go into the oil pan. Iv'e tried thread sealer, teflon tape, even atlittle rtv around the washers. I am using a new oil return line from FP. Any ideas?

Every since I fell in love with DSM's, I have always dreamed of having a custom t-top installed. My vision has always been to make it look alittle like a supra with t-tops. I think that it would look absolutly nasty and be really nice. I know that cutting the roof would make the body weaker...

no problem. They work fine, just had to cut alittle more than a CM off. The spring is different though (not sure what it comes off of). So the slowboy COP setup consists of 300m coils (from the 3.5 engine) and i beleive the boots are also from 300m (just use the duralast part number like i did)...

WOW, snoopyslr's car is exactly what i was picturing in my head!! I mean targa top, sorry for saying t-top. I want to find more info out about this, like what top he used, who installed it, and how much it cost. i love my sunroof, however the targa top is pure sex, lol! I want one so bad no...

Every since I fell in love with DSM's, I have always dreamed of having a custom t-top installed. My vision has always been to make it look alittle like a supra with t-tops. I think that it would look absolutly nasty and be really nice. I know that cutting the roof would make the body weaker...

i had used some, but i guess not enought cause that sucker was on there good, the reason it ripped on its was out. hopefully the info provided above could help with someone making their own COP... I still think the spring is different though