Not answering your question but where are you getting the hub adapter?

x12345 I would also love a set!

x2 for me as well. Behind the plastic panel. I actually used the same white plastic piece that holds the loom in place that runs to the fuel pump hangar assembly to neatly run it in that direction.

What I find frustrating (not DSMTuners fault) is finding awesome write-ups and Photobucket links are b0rked.

I really like how Brian (@turbosax2) did his vacuum block on the Evo 3 manifold:I have read a handful of reviews about the Carbonetics CSL that whatever resin he may have used made the entire trunk shrink. Since you actually drive yours have you noticed any ill effects? I am looking into...

^ Mishimoto?For OEM fitment I'm a fan of Koyo. For aftermarket and clearance the 2-row Scirocco/MK3 Golf seems to fit the bill nicely for most. I am going this route as it tucks the rad into the support nicely.

Are you saying you lose PS with the PS relocation?Here are the instructions and it looks as if you can keep PS? There is also the suggestion to bend the PS bracket if there is misalignment: http://jayracing.com/tech/Jay Racing Alternator Relocation Kit - 2G Installation Instructions.pdf

Glad you finally found a set of mirrors! Were they plug and play or did you have to wire them? What button do you end up pressing to make them fold in? Now you need EDM/JDM tails :)

I’m confused as well. I think he just tapped the SD wiring from the ECMLink adapter harness for the 5v wire?The 2nd link I posted shows ECU PIN 81 as the sensor voltage. The sensors eventually tie back to that wire/pin.

Do you have WB02 and simulating NB02? If so, then you could use the “front 02” or “rear 02”.http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/externalsensorinputYou can also the ECU 5v rail for power and ground: http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/2GECUPinout.pdf

Thanks, guys! Found it using another alias and searching “CE9A”. Looks like 01M even though it’s NGK: https://www.nengun.com/ngk/power-cable-mitsubishiAfter shipping turned out to be under $100USD now let’s hope I actually get it!

First thing I did was check AU eBay and search the P/N within various AU stores - no dice. Was hoping that the P/N was superseded, someone found a new source, or another vehicle fits. I even checked eBay stores for some Asian countries as well that have Evo 3's.

With ExtremePSI you are charged shipping and handling ($7.50). Just keep that in mind when price shopping the different vendors. I have ordered from JNZ and Extreme (both semi-local to me) and no issues with their quality or customer service.

Has anyone been able to find or source these spark plug wires or have an alternate? Having a heck of a time finding the right size wires for this now lol.

I'm asking for the length/size as longer ones are needed since the base of these are beefier. The DSM bolt sizes thread does not list that.

These are super sharp looking, Paul! Amazing works as always. I hope you end up making the front UCA so I can pair these lowers with em'! ;)

Bump from the dead. Anyone know the thread pitch and size of these rear motor mount bolts? Picked up a used set of these motor mounts and these bolts did not come with.

Black and yellow goes from the alternator plug to that generator relay.Blue wire goes from generator relay to that interior harness (C25) which goes to the instrument panel wiring (My 3rd pic the plug on the left) which looks to be for the instrument cluster for the "charging warning light".

Here is the official circuit diagram from my Mitsu Service Manual to give you the proper connector names. Let me know if a section is blurry and I can grab a closer pic.

Alternator Plug:Wires: White - leads to harness plug Red - leads to fusebox (40A Headlamp) Black with Yellow - leads to the "generator relay" Green - leads to harness plugGenerator Relay/Diode Thing:Black with White - leads to interior fusebox harness Blue - leads to interior fusebox...

I am doing a wire tuck right now. What pics do you need exactly? The alternator harness goes to the fusebox and that diode or the "generator relay" that Mitsu calls it hangs around the fusebox. Then, you have those 4-white wires that go into the fusebox between the 100A fuse and the fusible link.

This is great! Going to copy you for this.For folks who are now on the 1-wire Saturn alternator with self exciting option - are you removing/deleting the "Generator Relay"? I'm in the middle of a wire tuck and I notice this "relay" tied to the alternator wiring which I shouldn't need anymore...

I finally started tackling this, so bumping this from the dead. I did search this thread but didn't find a direct answer. I am removing AC and heat completely.These are the relays in the fusebox harness and what I think I can delete: A/C Comp. Cutch Relay - delete (leads to another harness)...

I've been playing the Subaru world too long. Will the DW200 (255lph) pump be enough for E85 and fueling those 2150's? I have a Walbro 255lph now and would love to go FlexFuel. If I can also have a more quiet pump changing the fuel setup then win/win!

Gotcha', that's what I'm trying to figure out is how to secure the box. It looks like we have the same box with the 2 holes on the bottom. I was going to use some 2x2 square bar and maybe drill/tap holes in the center to line up with those mounting points, then weld the square bar into the...

Thank you so much for the explanation! I have a 6-bolt swap and going to go with a 2g head using the 2g t-stat housing and would like to clean up as much as I can from the water pipe since I have deleted the heater core and FIAV. Was concerned when I ran across that post. Love your build I will...

I came across a post saying that deleting your lines you create additional pressure. Are you concerned at all with this? http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-bypass-the-thermostat-when-eliminating-heater-core.441066/

Any pics on how you attached the battery box and ran your cables? Looks like we are on the same path of mods. You are a lot further along than I am with getting your Brembos mounted. Mine are still in storage since you rebuilt and coated them for me.

Just wanted to bump this thread because it's an insanely amazing build. I keep referencing back to this thread to give myself the proper kick in the butt to get my build going again.Any updates??

I actually used the A/C hole for a pass thru as well for my starter/alternator! I had a question for you though as I noticed you are using your fuse box to power for aftermarket gauges. Since I removed A/C and ABS I have those 10A fuses open. I was planning on using one for my aftermarket gauges...

For the folks that have ABS and A/C removed can you use those 10A fuses from the engine bay fuse box for gauges and the fuel pump re-wire? I guess my only concern is that since the fuse box has a 12v feed from battery how will the gauges know to turn off?

Kyle_T, did you figure out which spot on the fuse box is the 12v? IIRC, the one is 100A fused for the alternator.Since I have removed A/C and ABS wondering if I could use those 10A fuses for gauges and my fuel pump re-wire?

Bumping this up as I am now Evo 1-3/RVR manifold shopping. I have seen posts with folks referring to the JMF coil pack bracket but saying that it should work, may work, haven't seen any confirming that it does work. JMF site states that this won't fit with the stock manifold, so just wanted to...

I searched this thread and didn't see it. Apologies if it's a repeat.Do the adapters leak? I read in another thread folks complaining about the adapter for the 3g MC leaks, not specific to JNZ's kit, but the adapters in general.

Just wanted to update this as I will be picking this up. Looks like JNZ now offers a kit that would replace/upgrade the front brake lines along with the lines from the proportioning valve to master cylinder. http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=4073You can select the 3g MC to...

That's it, it was the Earl update I was looking for. Also saw your note to go with 16AN to cut the cost down on the AN materials.

Any update from Summit about the leaky AN fitting? Debating chopping up my current rad and swapping to this.

I should be fine. I pulled a NON-ABS prop valve + lines from my local junkyard. I am also doing SS brake lines and adapter that gofer has posted part numbers for. So, I have the correct adapter/fitting for the 3G MC since the flare differs from prop to MC. Thanks for looking out, though!

Got my BMC in the mail today hope it's the right one! Bottom number equates to 17/16, so I am assuming it is. Going to keep my stock brake booster since the consensus in this thread is that the stock one should be adequate.

^ Thank you! I have read that the STM lines are super long, so wanted to get close to stock.

I think I may take this a step further and replace the hard lines to the front brakes as well. I know the STM ABS delete kit replaces the front brake hard lines with all SS. Would anyone happen to know the lengths for the fronts?

For anyone who wants to order the adapter + ss line check eBay. Summit wanted to charge me $15 for S&H through their site, but went through their eBay store and only paid $5 for both items shipped. I know us DSMr's like savings :D

So, I have Brembo calipers to slap onto my 2g. Going to rummage my local junk yards to look for a 3g BMC/BB. Just wanted to confirm my grocery list (taking most of the info from gofer's post):The 3g (2003) Eclipse 17/16" BMC (bolts perfectly, and clears strut tower) + the adapters and lines...

I will most likely be diving into this as soon as I finish my battery relocation. One thing at a time...

Have you looked into Hydrographics/hydro dipping? It's pretty durable stuff. I guess it's up to you on what type of feel you want (cloth vs. smooth surface). Example done on an Evo gauge cluster -Tons of patterns out there with this option and it's not crazy expensive.

^ ^ ^ This! So clean love it.

Since a few of the posts are years old it seems a lot of the pictures have been moved (no longer working). Just wanted to get some ideas on how folks are running the wiring to the engine bay. I saw one post where the 2" hole was drilled by shifter cable on the firewall, and also have read where...

Pulled this from turbosax2's thread... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151886577-post382.html

So if you pull the evap from the entire unit (big black box) you need to figure out a way to block off the hole so heat will still go through the vents?I would like to keep heat, but I want to remove the AC connection that's sticking out the firewall.

Bump from the dead as I have been searching to an answer for this as well. I have removed the A/C components in the engine bay, but want to clean up what I can on the interior.