If there is any sort of problem with the clutch, just let me know and we will get an RMA and send it back to them for inspection / measurement.

I only know them for their spring testers.

However you are prying it, it is not the force on it, it is literally a flick of the wrist to pop the axle out with a prybar.

New spec is 0.6065-0.6080 where I normally see them from ACT. Once in a while they are out of tolerance but typically they are correct.

Shim it. I measured 3x ACT flywheels here currently and they are all 0.607-0.608" in step height brand new.

That damage is typically from losing a tooth off of a pinion gear in the front diff or spinning debris in there from a previous failure and it failed. That is not from a drill hole. It needs to be fully disassembled, cleaned, welded by a TIG welder with 4043 rod on a cleaned case.

Those are holes from you breaking components inside your transmission. I would suggest you have the transmission torn down and assess the damage.

Starter plate bolt it looks like. Behind the flywheel.

Looks like a great time!! And the DSM hasn't broken down so all smiles from both people! ;)

It is pretty rare that I have had to replace the tailhousing bushing, normally I could smooth them out with a sanding drum and polish it up. Measure the ID/OD/length.

ASA mitsubishi parts lookup program.There are non-program routes as well, like megazip.com, amayama.com, nengunperformance.com, etc.

No loctite needed on the pressure plate bolts. 14ft/lb is spec.

The clutch fork is MD770506, pivot ball is MD719602. These are the same used for FWD/AWD turbo 4G63 F5M33 and W5M33 applications so it should be easy to get.

MD717879 speedo gear works, I make them. https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/dsm3si-fwdawd-front-differential-speedometer-ring-gear/As for the T350 transmission, I do not know if the speedo sensor has the same gear tooth pitch as the F5M33 / W5M33 ones, as mine was a copy of the OEM part.

29-33 ft/lbs with loctite blue 243 should be plenty.The factory center diff M10x1.25 Grade 8 cover bolt torque spec is 55 ft/lbs w/ Loctite 242 blue.Here is a good spec sheet - https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf

I ran a 4" downpipe with 5" diameter flex section on mine, that is how we designed the brace. The brace is only 0.100" thicker than the OEM side cover, so there should be plenty of space.

Press tools are the ones I snatch up along with old dealer tools!

So how big do you want?? I made my own press stands and have some fairly healthy sized splitters and can give recommendations.How heavy duty of a press are you using and what are you disassembling?In the photo, smallest is an OTC 1122 splitter with OTC 7393 push puller, medium is an OTC...

Do you have pictures of the 1/2 slider on both sides showing the engagement teeth?What was bearing preload set at for input and intermediate shaft?Have you checked your shift cables and shift cable bushings?Personally it sounds like a clutch hydraulic/mechanical disengagement issue with...

I use Loctite Green 290 on these bolts.

Clean up the sharp edge with a die grinder and 2" or 3" medium grit scotchbrite abrasive wheel.Here - 3" pad - https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/84035062 2" pad - https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/84035039Backing pad - https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/68135656

That little bolt he was showing is for nothing internal on the transmission.

Remove the subgear from 4th after you press apart the gearset and thoroughly clean and debur/detail the components, including reshaping the intermediate shaft 4th gear teeth to take the dent out of it. That happens from debris in the transmission jamming itself between the 4th gear and subgear...

Did you check and see if any others were available?Maybe check on these if you could? Most are hub and sliders, with a few other parts sprinkled in. MD724118 MD747647 MD746443 MD749416 MD747638 MD746292 MD746824 MD747162 MD744349 MD741396 MD735299 MD744350 MD747651 MD746716 MD742536 MD743313...

Thicker side goes towards reverse, how did you find a new 5/R hub and slider???? They are all obsolete.As well, all you really needed to do was flip your slider on the used 5/R hub and slider assembly and smooth out the witness marks in the hub splines with a die grinder and a 2" or 3" medium...

The TMZ874 is an invoice number, I have all the details if you want to email me and I can send over a copy of the original invoice.

It looks fine, either smooth out any flaws in it and install it, or toss it and don't run the subgear, snapring or wave spring.Being that you are using a 1991.6-1992.5 gearset, you need to use the matching subgear for a 1991.6-1999 DSM AWD then. The 1989-1991.5 and the Evo 1-3 style subgears...

Hub orientation matters the most. The slider can go on either way.3rd gear subgear installation is pretty straight forward. Place subgear on, install wave spring centered facing convex placed onto the gear, and install snap ring, then press down evenly with 2 screwdrivers until it...

The way it is, is correct.

The shift selector arm is an obsolete part. You could try asking in a DSM classified group if anyone has a 2g shift select lever arm from a 2g FWD/AWD bellhousing.

Yeah it is a simple swap. Easiest way? Air hammer with a 3/16" roll pin punch attachment. Punch pin from the backside towards the front of the transmission. Remove lever arms, swap and done. You do not need the counterweight, either chop that off with a angle grinder and cut wheel or a...

Chopping off the muffler and welding up a custom exhaust. There you go.

Or if you are welding the center diff and going to keep it FWD, then remove the output shaft and needle bearing and output shaft seal, and install a freeze plug and epoxy it in to the case. No need for a viscous coupler or retainer of the output shaft if it isn't even being used.

On a side note regarding clutch stuff, I already have SBC and Comp Clutch historically making me 1"x23 hub single clutch disks if people are looking for single disk options.

I definitely was in 100-115psi range. 7 bolt oem oil pump assembly with 90 gears and stub shaft. 20w50 oil. No issues. Ported teardrop oil passage on cylinder head, Kiggly HLA, 11mm head studs with my shouldered dowels. I had a pretty large oil cooler on the car with -10 lines, and ran about...

I cannot remember the specifics of the setup from 15+ years ago enough to give you measurable numbers unless I look at old datalogs. Overall they were healthy numbers on a 20w50 motor oil. Maybe 70-110psi under load, and 20-40psi under idle? It has been too long.

Well the slider looks fine for orientation, the hub has an identification marking on it that you can only see with it disassembled. The dot on the hub would face 3rd gear and you would orient the oil groove in the proper direction for rotation to the oiling hole on the shaft. Your 3rd synchro...

Well, it is considerably cheaper to just use solder to measure the zero gap, considering that the input shaft, intermediate shaft, center differential and output pinion shaft are using tapered roller bearings and should be under bearing preload. 0.062" solder used for the input shaft...

Shouldn't happen on down shifts unless you aren't using the clutch and you are just slamming it into gear without blipping the throttle, or if the selector cage / shift rail detents/ 5th cover rail limiters have not been clearanced correctly for full shift extension.Yes, someone already...

As for my involvement in this, I had some back and forth messaging with NEAT across a number of design adjustments and factory part limitations, along with what parts have become obsolete that need replacements and design adjustments. I also offered contacts for manufacturing that I have direct...

Any luck on the MD727861 bearing? I placed orders from Mitsu, Japan, UAE, Australia and UK and only found a couple trickling in.I did get a bunch of the others but its not many, I am lowest on stock of MD726235, MD736638 and MD727861.

I am planning on being able to do the job. I need to manufacture shims, and will also need to know the different bearing dimensions that he plans on using in the bearing plate so those shims are manufactured as well.

That is a steal of a price.7500 AUD is currently $4900 USD. You are getting literally completely upgraded 1/2/3/4 gearset with Carbon lined synchros, custom stronger hub and sliders, steel shift forks, shift rail(s), an upgraded complete center differential, bearings, billet bearing plate to...

Personally, there is nothing wrong with a stock Exedy clutch assembly, especially when you are keeping the car stock. Why buy a clutch from me for more when you are not running higher power levels? There is no need. Save your money, enjoy your stock car...

I know I have plenty of teardown instructions for a W5M33 trans on the forum, let me look.Here you gohttps://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/needing-advice-on-front-diff-replacement.387171/#post-152396943

Ordered!! Thank you!!

If you are using new circlips, there should be no issue unless you have a bearing failure at the front differential with the axle and differential flopping around. The axle stub passes through the pinion gear on each side and there is a circlip on the right axle to retain it on the inner edge...

Regarding your 5th/Rev shifting issues, I am suspecting one of two things. Either you are missing or crushed the crush washers too much for reverse light switch and reverse lockout switch, or you have popped loose/broken springs or mushroomed synchro keyways on the 5th/Rev synchros.Easy way...

You will run into problems doing this. And you will need to take more off than you think to get your hands physically on the output shaft in the trans, let alone finding where the detent ball now resides.Either way, trans needs to be opened up now.

Personally from Time Attack experience, the PPG is the most durable option, but I do understand that it can be a cramp on the budget. This set should work well in concept, but until there is real world testing under higher power levels we will not know what its limitations will be. Also...