Everyone has asked and i will ask again. Did you bleed the lifters before installing them? If not, that caused the valve to hit the piston on the first head.And it may have bent valves on this head too. With the backfire through the intake, either valves are bent or they just arent closed...

What turbo are you replacing the t25 with?

The amount of material removed all depends on how much pressure is put on the head while on the sander. It's basically a table belt and the head is held in place by hand. The true sign of the belt sander is the sanding scratches seen in the pic, end to end of the head. The cross marks are done...

It was belt sanded the the cross hatch was put on it by wrapping sandpaper around a file and sanding cross then flipping it 90* and doing the same. I've worked in several machine shops and seen it hundreds of times. The radius you see if from the original milling of the head. They were feeding...

Set the maft as tho you have 450cc injectors. Aux 0, base 2. Do you have it set for the correct size gm maf that you have?

He said he used royalpurple asse mbly lube.

He is talking about the plugs driven into the crank where the oil cross holes were drilled. Not like a small where it's just drilled from main to rod journals. The dsm has intersecting oil holes.

Center Diff Spider Gear KIT – Jacks Transmissions LLC

I'm not going to argue with you. But before you start saying someone is wrong, you should do some research on why some gauges are liquid filled in the first place. That being said, dry gaugesare more prone to fluctuations due to teptemperature than liquid filled gauges. And most of the time, the...

80 grit works fine

Sand it down to bare metal when you attach it. And I would try a tapped bolt hole instead. Self tapping screws are too likely to come loose.

Also, check the fuel vent/vapor lines and make sure it isn't blocked. If so, you could be pulling a vacuum on the tank which could cause fluctuations.

Next time you see the pressure dropping, go back there and see it the wires are hot. If so, try changing the ground location.

The autometer liquid filled gauge I used had a vented case and I never had any variations from hot or cold. Regardless though, he said his fuel trims started increasing which prompted him to look at the gauge. That to me would say it isn't a gauge issue.

What do you have for fuel pump wiring? Good ground? Rewired?Also, is the fuel tank vapor line still functional or do you have it blocked off?

If it werejust the gauge, the tune wouldn't change at all. Is the exhaust run close to the fuel line under the car?

More like 5.125".I can't wait to see the difference.

Awesome, I'm glad to hear that.

What's your budget?

What kind of turbo are you thinking about going with? New, used, or rebuilt?

Clean the oil from the ic and piping. If there is an extreme amount of shaft play in the turbo, I would also consider removing the oil pan and cleaning out all of the brass bearing material. It will take a while but all the oil will burn out of the exhaust.

Yes, sure. I'm making things up. I would have questioned his abilities if the dowels were pointed in the 3 and 4 o'clock position. It's obvious by the pic that the engine was rolled to TDC. Now son, isn't it past your bedtime? Dont let mommy catch you on the computer this late.And you do too...

He is a mechanic. If reputable, he would roll it to TDC before starting. That's how you are supposed to do and ohc vehicle. That is something that is left unsaid.Let me ask you this. Do you really think the mechanic is going pull the old belt off, set it beside the other, and transfer his...

You must have read the same thing I did. It's pretty simple to understand and make sense of if you read it all, isn't it? I hope it isn't just me. And thank you. I do everything I can to be correct in every statement I make. I don't make it a point to argue unless it comes to that in the...

Are you paying attention at all? Those pics were taken before the old belt was removed. Those marks were made before the old belt was removed. The new belt has been installed and the timing was corrected. Keep smacking yourself in the head like that and you will make yourself more dumb than you...

Being a mechanic myself, I would have put my own marks on the too before pulling it apart. But I guess I don't know what I'm doing either... Smh

What you are missing is the mechanic hasn't even pulled the belt off yet. He pulled the cover and put his own marks on there with white out just like any smart mechanic does. Those pics were taken before the old belt was ever removed. The reason for the mechanic putting his on marks on there was...

I have attached two photos to show my problem. the teeth are not aligned at all he discovered this when he removed the cambelt cover.Then the original poster asked for his own knowledge if this was normal. The mechanic knew it was an issue to begin with. If not, he never would have said...

I think you need to reread before bashing his mechanic. That is how the mechanic found it when he removed the timing cover. He didn't do that himself. Hence why it was posted and questioned on here.

If it were mine, I would expect turbo first. Even wore out or broken rings rarely smoke that bad.

Sounds like the exhausta nd catalytic converter is full of oil too.

14b or any variant of the 16g would be cheapest and easiest to install. Any of those would definitely be a step up from the t25.

Yes, or pulling oil out of the vc through the intake pipe

And check to see if the ic is full of oil.

Glad to hear you got the problem fixed before it caused issues.

Add a second bolt. The holes in the flange are slotted so they will line up. And it's fairly normal for people to use a 2.5 o2 housing witha 3" dp.

Yes but that most likely would be dripping off of the front of the engine under the exhaust manifold, not under the timing components.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/miller-import-parts/478286-new-car-alert-95-tsi-fwd-twisty-skirts-t25-turbo-7-bolt-engine-more.html

Biss screw out of throttle body.

Only other thing in the timing area would be water pump gasket or head gasket.

Are you looking at therreservoir? Pull the coolant cap off and see if that is full.

Have youchecked your coolant level? Sounds like it could be low.

Well i wouldn't worry about looking at the wg or vacuum lines because that obviously isn't your problem.Has the mas been modified at all? I would suspect that or a failing o2 sensor if it really is lean. But then again, a narrow band is nothing more than a flashing light that is powered by...

Have you replaced the o2 sensor?

I saw that. But he hasn't said anything at all about not being able to build boost, he has been talking about being lean when he does build boost. I was under the impression he can't build boost because he is afraid of causing engine damage.

The car boosts just fine, correct? Just shows a lean condition at low boost? If this is the case, why are you chasing boost problems? What does it do when you go wot?

You bought it in a 711 parking lot? Lol

First off, is the drain hole square or round? Secondly, the turbo should come apart before drilling or tapping any part that involves the fees or drain. It would be too easy for shavings to find their way into the bearings.And post a pic of the bottom of the chra.

Op, it sounds like you have a low fluid or line pressure issue. Did you replace filter when you were working on it? Any mods to the tranny? Did you happen to flush the cooler with compressed air while it was apart to make sure of no trash or debris in the lines?

If it doesn't leak, I wouldn't be afraid to use it.