I moved to Nordlock washers from the conical washers. I forgot what material I chose though as that is important for the washer to be of the correct hardness. I found the conical washers would sometimes allow one or two of the bolts to come loose and the Nordlocks always worked great. If I...

I've been working with a classic Mini for the last year and it is downright amazing what is available for much older cars. Trim pieces, body panels, bearings, is all available in either UK original or improved Japanese version (for interior trim pieces, ball joints, custom wheels). Its because...

Speedy recovery Tim! Let's see if our community can return the love and care he has given us all over the years. He's truly made a huge impact on this community.

The Delica service manuals have been posted on the major Delica forums. I had an L400 (6G72), but didn't keep anything L300.

Concentric twisting is normally used when bundling wires for motorsport harnesses. This is a good / quick summary:The real short reason is that it makes the wiring bundle extremely flexible for it's thickness. This only works if you've done a correct job of matching conductor sizes and...

I'll probably go for this too. Why not, I've done everything else. :)

Any thoughts about putting some fastener locations for undertray aero?

RTM Racing has fantastic support, and as I reassemble the Talon, I will be a customer again. Fast shipping and always have the oddball stuff I'm looking for.

Haven't been paying enough attention to this forum, so put me down for the next set. :)

Definitely interested!

I honestly don't really know. There seemed to be higher failure rates of the older units, however, I'm not sure this is accurate at all. I'm actually planning on using this newer unit on my Talon and depending on how it goes, I'll implement something myself on our classic mini.I'm a bit...

That's a good article about adjusting the assistance but only good for the older Koyo style units, not the newer (roughly 2008+).

I paid over $200 alone for my electric power steering unit alone with no installation. I think this is an amazing deal. Just Google the large EPS providers and the costs range from $500 for a DIY kit to much, much more. I bought an extra rack and steering column just so I could have this...

I would like both as well.

For me at 2.0L with an Evo316G was worse for autox than my 2.4 running a GT3076R (not newer GTX). They are both too laggy to be really competitive, but can be fun anyway. Anything larger is just too slow. The courses we have here are really tight so that influences my opinion pretty heavily...

How about a Garret G25-660? Should be similar to the EFR?

Depending on the actual EPS controller used, the correct way to vary assist would be to feed it the correct CAN signals - mostly wheel speed and engine RPM.

I'm also in for all of it!

And... Sold!Looks awesome, thanks for the hard work!

I'm in for the manual rack now. I'm very interested in the electric power option discussed above. If that doesn't work out, I'll build myself a unit.

They have a feature on their site that allows you to check off all the applicable parts and it will choose the best parts to minimize cost with shipping. I've use RockAuto a fair bit, and they've been excellent for me so far.

Me too! I was supposed to get this all working years ago and had a half baked solution on an embedded PC, but it wasn't robust enough. I'd also love for it to be able to spit out some of the DSMLink data to a CAN bus so it can be consumed by the RCP for both display and warnings. USB to CAN...

Column mounted electric steering was my plan here with a manual rack. However after pulling a 2G column and looking at the powered steering column components I'm not sure how or where we could fit it on a 2G without sacrificing the collapsible part of the column. I keep poking at it, but if it...

I was planning on using an EPS system with a manual rack. Getting rid of the hydraulics removes a bunch of complexity.

Interested in a manual rack and perhaps a powered rack.

You likely want a manual rack, with an EPS column (Saturn, Toyota, Nissan). Several vendors offer off-road EPS column conversion kits for race cars.

1, GSXbooster 2, TheLemon 3, 95eclipser 4, jls_Frog 5, slowwhite 6, ViciousLord 7, gsxitement 8, Eclipse 1998 9, Mitsumikey 10, EclipseRacing99 11, T2Small 12, 13, 14, 15,me too!

Another set here please.

Also wanted to mention that I've found that my rear sway bar moves around far too much. I've seen Whiteline's sway bar locks, but haven't ever got around to installing some.

Wow, thanks for sharing!I've had similar problems with my FP turbine bolts backing off, and also stupidly didn't realize the tabs were for locking it at the time. After re-installing them and buying a new kit from FP, I figured it out. For the turbo to the exhaust manifold, try NordLock...

I've been using one for a long time, and have no issues with it. Definitely more sump capacity and the baffles keep the pickup submerged. There are clearance issues with a 2.4 crankshaft, but that can be remedied with some persuasion.

If the centre hole is left out, I'm in.

It could well have been ground on that car. Car was given to me, and it had some odd wiring that I didn't bother to completely remedy.

I personally dislike AEM V1 after living with one for a couple of years. I came across several problems that I just didn't have with ECMLink:1) Slow start (I picked up cam angle sensory trigger disc and this eliminated the delay) The cranking issue is definitely not a tuning issue as V1...

You might have trouble finding the rear diff on a FWD.

I posted a link to pictures of my shortened arms on the previous page as well.

Some were talking about bolting brackets to factory locations and effectively having the pivot points somewhere else, but it turns out that won't fly.

Oh, I forgot my arms have been shortened for extra camber.

Does this help? https://goo.gl/photos/gronypdZsPhjpFnE9

Awesome job on the first time out! Some fellow race club members attack Knox Mtn every year.Josh V (club member) previously ran in the same class as you.EDIT: Don't let a VW Rabbit beat you! Go for the record! :)

Every new Roadkill episode makes my week. :)

Any reason the ring gear and one shaft was REM/ISF treated versus WPC you had done on the other gears and shafts?

One of mine leaked from rear wiper assembly with similar symptoms.

FP cast turbine housing with their cast O2 housing gives you a bunch of clearance. Allows you to fit an upgraded radiator and a decent fan.

I've had my SMIM welded on the car before a trip to the drag strip and it held. A while later I had some bracing welded over that edge and it didn't crack again until I sold that manifold and head combo.The welder kept asking if I wanted my floor boards checked.

@snowborder714 Wow thanks! Don't know how I missed that before. In addition to my small ducts running to my bumper, I'll hopefully copy that too.