+1 Especially if you've been parking your car upside-down, such that the rain and mud can get to the switch, which is located near the top of the lever-arm for the pedal, behind the dash.
He said winter, so I'm thinking he wants AWD which rules out NA "DSMs." The ad has already been pulled from Craig's List, but it seemed entertaining; I especially loved the idea of having thick wheel spacers on a "rally car." In any event, the OP should probably just get a 15 year old Scooby...
It's not necessary if you don't lower the nose too much.As to availability of 17s ... maybe things have changed, but 17" R-compounds were a serious issue back when I autocrossed. We wanted something around 275/35/17, but they didn't exist.
If you get them from True Choice, then, yes, they can be shortened before they are sent to you. You could also have them revalved, if you wish.Note, however, that you have chosen the worst time - by far - to have this work done. Most good places are totally backed up at this time of year.
Yes. It's the rear springs and shocks that are key to ride quality. Another option, if you don't mind the risk the car-sickness on the highway, is 750-800 front and 300 rear with only the rear swaybar upgraded.
My Avatar is the car on 17x8 +40 ASA IS6 wheels with 245/40/17s, lowered about an inch on Konis. I don't know if I have any other pictures. The car is long gone.
It was something like $75 per shock to get them shortened. I think I used True Choice.As to 18"s ... wheel gap is from tire to fender, isn't it? The wheels are a side issue. Plus, when you lower the car with coilovers, that will take of it. Why make the car slower and less comfy just so a...
One of the cool things about having a huge skidplate is that it acts like a lower front tie-bar due to where it attaches to the car.The thing I said about a whole degree of camber was an overstatement, but I do remember losing a bit when I put it on. But you're only losing camber that exists...
Did you see the size of his intercooler and the mention of wheel-hop? More likely to be a drag-racer than someone who turns. Add in the wrong-wheel-drive and it is (easily) possible to have too much front camber.
Actually, they don't. The sidewall is too soft. They are terrible.My $.02:R-S3s if you have to deal with heat and it doesn't rain often.Direzzas if it does rain and never gets hot.
The cheapest OTS option that handles well and rides nicely is $2400 (KW V3s), so you're stuck with Konis and sleeves if you want to do this affordably.Keep in mind that, on a 2G, like most front-heavy cars, ride quality is mostly determined by the rear shocks. In contrast to some suggestions...
You have a 2G. That means you have a double-wishbone front suspension. That means you don't have struts; you have a shock. That means the state of the shock has nothing to do with the alignment.TL;DR: no, a bent "strut" can't be why your camber is off
The name of the curved lower arm in the front of a 2G is "compression arm." But the most-likely bushing to rip on a 2G seems to be that between the upper rear arm and the rear knuckle, especially when someone lowers the car and doesn't recenter the bushing.
Um, I believe that everything from the windshield forward on a convertible is the same as on a hard-top, so whether or not the car is a convertible is totally irrelevant to whether you want a front STB.
Data and experience? Nope. Never had a 4-lug car other than the really old Saab that I learned to drive in back when Jimmy Carter was president. But the difference between a 5-lug with one snapped and a 4-lug with one snapped is night and day. And you're going to be replacing wheel bearings...
It all depends on why the OP wants a LSD. If it's for drag-racing, then, yeah, he might be able to get away with just stickier tires (at least until he ups his torque and then we'll be right back where we started). But if it's for getting out of corners faster, stickier tires could make it...
I can't help but mention that, if you're going to be doing something that needs 13" rotors, then you really ought to have at least 5 lugs holding your wheels on.
But, Sam, I, too, was educated in the UK and, therefore, use commas their way, including the so-called Oxford comma before the "and" at the end of list, in fact. tee hee
OK, then, sphericals are out. (CB knew exactly what I was asking, it seems.) Without rules to worry about, I'd do the redrilled upper front arms trick for a tad more camber without losing any travel to silly upper ball-joints. Then swap in urethane where-ever and when-ever you can and call it...
Do you have any rules constraints (e.g., SCCA or Canadian AutoSlalom) with which you need to conform?Are you willing to deal with increased NVH on the street and the need to inspect and/or replace bits on a regular basis in order to get the most from the car?
Try running these numbers past the dealer to see if it wakes them up:NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 00V421001
NHTSA Action Number: RQ00015I'm not saying that I'm sure that the recall is truly still in effect, but any quick Google on the above will show them that there was a recall at some point.
Update/backdate is a completely different allowance from all the specific allowances. It's mentioned at the beginning and then not mentioned again. Update/backdate is what allows you to swap parts from other cars on the same line, as long as it can be swapped without changing anything else...
Not sure why Snowy said that a 6-bolt in a 2G forces you to SM. SP allows for complete engine swaps between cars on the same line and all DSMs, from 89-99, are on the same line. Now, if the motor mounts and/or tranny doesn't line up, then it isn't possible for that reason (which could well be...
According to Mitsu, they are slightly different (and have, therefore, different part numbers). But according to some places selling knock-offs on eBay, they are interchangeable. I leave it to the OP to decide who to trust on this.
"I yanked some wire in my dash and now one of my gauges doesn't work. What's up with that?""Gee. I dunno. Maybe one of those wires you yanked."ps. get a wide-bandpps. the reason why "money is tight" is that you keep buying worthless crap for your car
Not sure why people are saying that building boost while rolling will do anything to the clutch since your foot is completely off the clutch when you do it. It's called "left-foot braking" and it's rather simple. If you want to involve the clutch as well, then knock yourself out, but I have...
Interesting. It's been way too long for me to remember things like that.And I totally agree about avoiding - like the girl that gave your buddy the clap - those press-in bushings from ES. OMG. Those were awful.
Make it stop. It hurts.You should have known it was relevant when you were asked for offset. And it's not mandatory; it's just in your best interest if you want useful replies. Feel free to not mention it next time. See how it works out for you.Two reactions to this:First, the reason...
I am soooo close to suggesting that the next thing to do is pass the Canadian equivalent of middle-school English.Man, that was unreadable.ps. I could have written "elementary-school," but I'm such a softie