I suggest you stock up, and get on the FB pages with that stuff.......

IDK man........ there isnt many of the HDs left...... I see posts for 5 speeds almost every day. But if I were you, I'd treat them as if they're almost gone...... BC one day soon, they will be.

Consider yourself lucky then.The Mobile 1 oil is out dated info. Ed Peters had a good run, but the formula has long since changed. I will only use a Synchromesh fluid, more specifically "Asmsoil Synchromesh" But then again I've also went through numerous transmissions over the years. My...

Do NOT use anything except a SYNCHROMESH fluid...... ATF+4 was for NVT350s years 2000 and up.Usuable fluids are as follows.........Amsoil Synchromesh Royal Purple Synchromax Valvoline Synchromesh Pennzoil Synchromesh........

You could buy a universal SS braided line that accepts double flaired brake line on both ends. Which is what ive done. I used nickel/copper brake tubing and completely redone my lines. Including the clutch line.

I'm n ot that far off. But i keep it for car related stuff, and a few individuals.

Fix your initial problem first. Either through the wiring harness, or the ECU....... "deleting" the IAC will cause a shit ton of problems on an OEM ECU.Iv'e been running an older MS2 V3 for years, and it doesnt have the IAC option. So I use a manual IAC from Modernperformance.com

Megasquirt is really the only viable option that isn't a total pain in the f***ing dick to install. At least MS has a built in crank trigger for the 420a. Good luck trying to get anything else to work with it. MS is by far the best for a 420a all around.As Echo-Eclipse said, Cody Kenyon is a...

If you havent found anything yet. Look up Brendon Lucas on FB. He has made kits for 420a VC replacment.

I use an aluminum rad bought from ebay, for a 4g63. All i did was re-plumb the hoses. It's not as difficult as you'd think. In junction with 12" cooling fans by Imperial from Advance Auto.

Mike still makes all kinds of stuff. He's still very much in biz.

Bolt-ons do not add HP......... They merely free up restrictions put into place by the manufacturer...... So sure it feels like it "adds", but in reality you're increasing engine output by making it breath better. On another note, this boost game aint cheap........Rule #1 NEVER modify your...

l This is the manifold i built using Treadstone Performance's DIY kit....... Also if youre looking for a quality intake mani, look up Mike Frye a.k.a. All Motor Mike. I dont believe he's on this forum. He's originally a Neon guy. Facebook is where you can find him for sure.

But it takes months and poor communication to receive one........ a couple people who I've spoke with that have ordered from them tell me it's like trying to buy stuff from Carbonetics....... months and months of empty promises.

You're gonna have to post some pics of this manifold. I personally have never heard of one before. I fabricated my own mani using a tubular cast SS universal DIY kit from Treadstone performance.

In this case you may just want to install an Aeromotive 1:1 FPR........ at least you'll have full control over your base pressure.

I'm sure you can..... Its job is to keep the MAP from seeing boost pressure, so the PCM doesnt start cutting fuel.

A couple things to keep in mind as well......... The cable end busings (on both ends)(at the trans and the shifter)...... I personally use Amsoil Synchromesh, as its probably the closest we have to dealer OEM fluid, ATF+4 was just a cheap ass alternative and should never have been used..... But...

The OBX header is "OK" mostly just for dress up really. Ebay specials all day. LOL!

No reason to swap manifolds..... The OEM is plenty, unless you're trying to make north of 600hp. Unless of course you're just trying to "doll up" the engine bay.

Keep in mind, this is old school tech now..... Which is why a lot of us are all fancy with Megasquirt. In your case an electronic FCD would work well, which all it is, is a MAP clamp to keep the MAP sensor from seeing the full 5V..... Back when i had that setup, i set mine to max out at 4.7-4.8V

Ive been running the Ed Peters OBX LSD by MPx. Well over 3k (hard miles) on it, and still work very nicely..... Biggest suggestion is getting it installed by an actual trans mechanic.

Chances are they probably didnt have anymore of the size you ordered in stock , and had to have it made and drop shipped. But personally if i can help it i will buy direrctly from most makers. And ive been running a Cometic HG @20psi and have had great results.

To me, ......its a PERFECT fit! and like ive said, ive been doing 20psi very hard pulls since i put it on June 1st. and i absolutly love it!

Bought it, been running it for over 1,200 miles+ and so far so good, all 20psi of it too.......... <img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/2/2/9/7/3/engine1.jpg" alt="New Engine Setup" />

I had blown the diff out of my old trans by over revving it in first gear, but since being replaced with another used one (at the time 132,xxx on it) So far so good, using a Spec stage 3, slips quite a bit, running 20psi. everyday.

420A (Eclipse RS) : Real Street Performance Engine Parts, Pistons Rods Cams Valvetrain and Morethese guys have good parts at decent prices, ive ordered from them before and plan to do it again. I bought my cams from crower's website. If im gonna build an engine, your damn right the internals...

:hmm: well thank god im not crazy. i havent had any oil psi problem, but my dipstick would occasionally pop out after high boost. but i finally got smart and cripmed the tube a tad. However i defiantly need a catch can, bc i get oil spatter out of the tubes coming off my valve cover after high...

Yeh, figures it would take me this long after not touching the car for a few months now, i drove it on one of our warm days, and of course figured it out. Turns out i had a short in the OE harness for the entire car, and when the system did short it screwed with my AFC Neo and settings got...

ok screw the sensor issue...... its come down to this, i truly believe theres an f-ing short! ive checked almost every ground, and even set up a grounding system... Has anyone had a short causing drivability problems, and extreme lean conditions?

well, ive replaced jus about every major sensor witha working one,. and yet still no change, including the ecu. basically it still runs lean, and has no power (with PF off), and when u turn PF on it hesitates till PF kicks in then boosts up to 10psi then ignition cuts out, so im not sure where...

ok read a lil further back and ull see what ive already done, with pf off it idles ok, but anything else is immediate lean and runs shitty, no power. im sstarting to think the ecu took a shit, or limp mode

yes ive pulld the plugs and they look blackend like i would expect then to be. i just have afeeling that something in the ignition is breaking down, wondering if tach adpt is screwing up. but when i turn off PF it cant get out of its own way but will idle just fine.

ok ive come to find that the, map, cam, and fuel pressure are ok. found out that when i turn OFF the PF it will idle ok, but will run like crap, lean, and feels like ignition is stumbling. have not checked crank sensor. wondering if knock sensor has an effect on it??? any input on this??

ok guys bare with me, im doing this from my phone. have 420a boosted normal 20psi, working fine all summer until recently. now i boost up to ten psi and runs like crap, wideband says rich, however "acts" like it running lean. using PF with stage 5 cal. two step colder plugs. like i said never...

Need to see more Transmission rebuild parts (stronger part) for the 5 speed, so we wont be afraid to dump the clutch at 6k. But you get the idea.....

No LSD yet, and it does spin like mad wheni hit full boost, but right now im around 20psi, and it hauls pretty good. Thinking about pushin it all the way very soon.

No just 110 oct, and the noise was a problem from the last machining of the block, hence why i had to rebuild, and on top of that the flex plate cracked all the way around the bolts, so yeh..... and i havent had a problem with fouling, just check em and clean them if need be. And finally i have...

Well last year before i tore it down bc of noises i was able to hit 27psi, utilizing portfueler stage 5, custom mounting n setup. 2 step colder sparks and 110 octane. i would amagine around 400hp +or-

Heh i think i went through more than $2000. Local macing shop ####ed me over twice, but third times a charm, different shop this time. But no timing change for now, head has up grade valves, crane springs, stage 3 Crowers, with polished intake ports and lightly ported exhaust side. Ill have some...

Very nice bro, just got mine running again, and got same GT35R, and Stage 3's<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TiG5DzoVi_w&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess"...

WOW who even cares at this point on whats missing. You have done an amazing job at recreating that section, (a very difficult peice at that) of the car. I would never had imagined myself ever doing that. I wouldve taken the easy way out and getting another one and transfering parts over. LOL but...

Yes i agree definatly take it to a shop if you can and have them finish the rest, but if you wanna do it your self, determine the angle of the bend, and just get a long enough peice of pipe and have a shop make the bend how you want it, and then cut it yourself to fit. Then weld in place. I...

UMMM sooo is there a 2"gap? Is that what your saying? If thats the case i would just cut a peice of pipe and then weld it in. if its something different at least get us a pic.

they didnt stop making them, they seemed to have limited to the style of brand, (i.e. Iridiums) But i believe 7's are pretty good up till 18psi'ish, and further i would suggest using 8's. But that would depend on your AF raito at that point and how hot things get, and quality of fuel. With those...

Well if your feeling squirrly and decide to go for 18psi or more, then i suggest using an 8 heat range... heres the part number and i use them in mine. You may even be able to use this PN and order them through Advance Auto... BKR8EIX

Ok well, this has actually been a discussion before, but ill tell ya. Go to sparkplugs.com, they have any darn plug your looking for. But when you look up the OE plug just replace the heat range with the number you want, when looking up the part number, And later if you ever decide to go to an 8...

Yes yes, he is absolutly right. Its just so simple and made easy.... lol

Most of the time use a 1/4" torque wrench for anything M8 and smaller, but yes use a 1/4" TW, and just convert inch to ft lbs.