Just the gears

How much did this end up costing you?

Stop now.

LOL. back out of the shop, onto the road infront of house, and right onto the 2 step.

Use the upper switch. A solid hub street disc, or a solid 4 puck WILL shift faster than a twin. The discs have less inertia. Your measurements with the calipers tell you nothing. you need to measure the disc thickness, pp thickness, spring thickness, and fulcrum to mounting surface...

step height is close enough imo. Your issues are elsewhere.Be very careful you don't overextend things and break shit. Run pedal with hand while adjusting.

Jack is the only one besides me that ever actually went after a solution, but he stopped short.End of story is that if finger position step height or shimming effects your release you do not have enough travel.All you have to do is bolt together a few clutches and open them up with a...

The 2900 is tough to make work but it does. Log your up shift times just use the upper pedal switch. I've seen 280ms on a 2900 with a solid hub street disc at 9500RPM and a beat up old trans.The ACT discs are very soft and the chunk out like that if you don't have good release and you...

No. It might be possible with creative machine work, but probably not.

Do you have any kind of disassembly for a n/t bin?

It's not likely the step height. You could have the flywheel cut 10 times and doubtful it would change it enough to cause problems. You didn't grind shit off with a scotchbrite pad. A new flywheel won't fix your problem. If one got all anal about it and tried to keep all that in spec...

i agree, as flat as they are, good chance fingers hit the disc before it gets fully released. There is also as good of chance that the disc is junk too since trans was put in on a jack.It's an interesting issue. Everyone gets all bent out of shape if the step height is off 0.005" or...

The harder you turn it up the more you can gain. I'd expect to pickup at least 10mph on your setup not even cranking up the boost.

Lapping to improve sealing is a waste of time. If you lap enough to remove all imperfections you will just wear the valve face all concave and round the edges of the seat. The defined angles will be gone and the seating will be terrible. A couple quick swipes to clean it off and check the...

Because that is not the problem. It is a self adjusting clutch for starters. Secondly it's a simple geometry problem. To get the most travel out from the least travel in the fork should start and end at the same angle. So that the slave is as close to perpendicular to the fork as possible...

Use a cherry picker, get a loop welded to a bolt that threads into the boss in the top of the trans. Trans on jacks ruins clutch discs. Leave the driver side axle in the hub, but you have to unbolt the carrier off the block. You have to be careful because you can easily f*** the seal, and you...

Unless they have changed something it is the bs sprocket/tin, or the spacer/tin, or like a kiggly trigger wheel. Only 1 of those, no other spacer needed, and then the hub goes up against that. It is possible your damper is missing pieces. There are several parts that go in the shell. I have...

Do you have the right damper? You will have to cut the hell out of the cover to clear the ati.

No, not the BAP into the ARC-2. ARC-2 into trash, and then BAP into stock coil/put.

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?

Someone definately made that. Curious to see what the other ends of the shaft and coupler look like.

Also unless you've moved on to a much more expensive trans, take the hint the ignition is telling you, turn it down.

Try a boost a pump to power the stock coils. I've read somewhere that the factory PTU has a current limiter built in so you may not get anywhere with that. The factory coils are pretty tough though. I've never found a reason to use anything else. I know everyone is hyped on the COP stuff...

I never had issues with the ARC-2. i think most that do are because of user error or shoddy wiring. Ditch the ptu and tach adapter and they are mint. I just can't say that I noticed much improvement in spark. Even with the big Taylor wires I had to gap the plugs down a to about 0.022ish to...

If you are planning on increasing the airflow, then yes you need a good pump. A small stock pump in good condition would be enough to run the car with stock like airflow. I suspect that you are going to turn it up, otherwise the 1220's would be silly. And it sounds like you have a garbage...

I would not run any stand alone with a stock cas. They do not deal with the timing scatter and the low resolution cas well.

I have thought about doing ITB's on my car, but honestly IDK if it's a good move. Intake at the rear that's a hot low pressure zone, not good for power. Unless you are going to put a scoop and an air box on it. I had planned on doing a slide valve. A butterfly gets in the way of the air...

The og type low impedance 1200s are rock solid reliability, pump gravel through them and they still work. The small high impedance stuff seems like every someone has one stick open or shut or burn a motor down from them.Also...

Come on donnie, no one needs your logic, reason, and experience around here!

O'reallys has a tool kinda like this. check that out and see if it will work. I don't have any auto's and any auto trans that cross my path go straight to crusher so none to look at here. Even on manual trans it can be a pain to get them out on occasion. I had a parts store one that was...

On an auto it can be a SOB. The cup is down in a hole and you can't use a prybar. The oe auto cups had an extra nub on them further out to pry on.

Yeah, the 3kgt is like 0.700" or 0.625" I actually have one on my all motor car right now as a "quick fix" It's got an OE mitsu PP and an ACT disc, and it wasn't happy shifting at 10K. The 3k slave works ok with the light pressure plate, but isn't ideal.When you start cranking up the...

Over the years I've done a lot of testing with these cars. I've probably spent more money on testing clutches than an average build costs. - Not bragging, just saying I've tried a lot of stuff. One thing that sticks out, is virtually all performance clutches require more throw out bearing...

Need a close up of the gears to confirm the profile, but based on your typings, you can't. Mid 91 is the border you can't cross with 3/4 parts. 3,4,intermediate shaft, and center diff has to stay in a set across that border. Late 91 to early 93 3/4 will be compatible with your intermediate...

From the eagles and manleys I've had here the manleys have a thicker beam. The must have less meat around the big end then if they are 25 grams lighter. I went high 10's on my eagles back in the day. Made enough torque to break a wiseco wrist pin with them.

I wouldn't count on that until you have it in your hands. From what I learned this summer there was only 1 place making these windshields, and it was in china and they didn't fit good. Anyway, they discontinued them - there will be no more new windshields. Anything out there is existing...

Don't take this the wrong way, but you are tearing up a lot of stuff for the power you make. My street car traps 112-114 in the 1/8 on truck stop E85 and the motor is virtually trouble free. I think you need to back her down a little bit and get a solid baseline established and make sure...

It's at least a 2600 MB010X as it has the reinforcement welded into the top of it. Beyond that hard to tell. If it's a 2900 or a 3200 good luck making it work. You can have someone with a press and a good gauge compress it and see. Use a dial indicator to meausre the deflection and record...

The straps drive the pressure plate, they have NOTHING to do with the clamp. The diaphragm ONLY effects it.

The transmission input shaft is required to be within 0.01" of concentric of the crankshaft. If it is not the flywheel and clutch start to "orbit" around the input shaft. It will make the disc try to move side to side on the flywheel till it self clearances itself. End result is poor...

If it spins buttery smooth, it likely has no preload and needs service. It ought to have ~20in/lbs of rotational drag. Other than that there really isn't a way to tell without taking it apart. If it's a fresh rebuild it should have enough assembly lube on it you could drive for miles before it...

Kinda, but far weaker. If you do something like break a tcase it breaks the spider gears too and spits the pieces out and ruins the gear set.

Yes. Put the bottom gear in without the thrust washer, and use a bolt/nut to hold it down and a big millermatic 250 set on burn this f***er down and have at it. Fill 'er in. I usually tack a few spots first which gets some heat in it, then burn it in good. I wrap in a welding blanket after...

Holy shit 10/10 destruction! But yes weld that bi*** and send it. If you are going to keep running it FWD, find a 2g fwd trans. They have closer ratios and drive off 4th gear so it should last longer.

Make sure you have the right input race/bearing combo. There are two distinct ones, and the cup/cone is not compatible at all. If you try to mix/match it can do stuff like this.Also make sure this isn't a trans previously done by another builder, I've seen some stuff out there. A few...

I don't down shift mine unless i'm crawling and yep that looks like it's been remachined allready. Weird tool path. There was some guy doing them. I think Tim knows who. I'm going to be tooling up to re cut mine soon enough, probably has another season left if I don't screw up.

I can't say that I've seen him say "Yeah send em all to me I'll do them all" This is at least a year from now maybe longer, lots of things happen in a years time.

The stock cross shaft is terrible, especially when cut down to use 4 spiders. The peak stress in the drive pins is way more than the expected 2x increase from half the load points. bad, bad.

I've never been a fan of the way most others do 4 spider center differentials. The floating cross shaft is a poor idea, adding 2 more spider gears barely helps. The cross shaft is allowed to turn in the housing, while the gear is held flat against the out side. End effect is the shaft becomes...