Slave cylinder is on the tranny. Master cylinder is at the dash.

It's a 12mm bolt, you need to have it in. You take the chance of breaking an ear off of the tranny or block when enough horsepower is applied.OP you say you worked on 6bolt engine removals, so you should of came in contact with said bolt.

Old lubricant, probably never changed.

There has been some issues with the GENII losing settings when you shut off car. Check your settings again and see if they didn't change.

The difference it makes: My arm fell off that opens the butterflies. In second gear I roll to 3000rpm, mash the gas it feels like I have shitload of lag.With the arm attached, same thing roll to 3000rpm and mash the gas, all four tires start barking and spinning hit 3rd they bark again...

Did you check the settings on the GEN II? What are they?

The lowest boost your gonna be able to run is what your wastegate pressure is at with the 2 springs.

The metal type gaskets work best. That high temp won't hold. There will be 1600 degrees coming out of there.I have an extra gasket.

Yo guys, I'm saying pull the starter and go in from the side, not from uderneath, oh and take the battery out too.He's AWD so the transfer case is in the way.

You got the recirculating O2? If yes, then a little tip.Start all 4 bolts of the wastegate flanges, and slowly turn each a turn at a time. It's a tight fit. You don't want it to get cocked while tightning it up. At least for me it was real tight with the gaskets and trying to line up holes...

Pull the starter out and you will be able to get to the bolts with a wrench. If you have a racheting box wrench that will help alot. But you still won't be able to get them all with the racheting box wrench.

35R DBB

Edit- I just installed the small spring inside the larger spring. Feels really stiff. So 44pirate, you stated by doing this your minimum boost level now running straight w.g. is 21psi?Yep 21psi. No gaskets came with mine. You have to get nuts and bolts.

It doesn't mount in a E T L. The case doesn't look like has the mounting tabs to go behind radio.

When you say upper dust shield, I think that is called starter plate.

What kind of fuel pump? Did you adjust the BISS before installing the TB? It doesn't take much to foul plugs when rich as shit. When you changed plugs, how did they look? Gapped at .028?

Plugs are fouled now, so do yourself a faver, get a new set.

I know someone firsthand, dyno 598hp upgrading to the HTA. What he noticed was no more compressor surge in street driving. He did gain the little more hp and tq. This is on a 2.3.

I'm not good with schematics, exactly where in the engine bay wiring harness is the 2 wires you replaced? Thanks

RRE did the same for me. In fact I was the instigator for them to make them special for us EVO3 O2 housing guys with RRE DP to match.I'm using two slim fans. I just moved them closer to passenger side.

Yes both springs together.I had the top nipple before, now that I changed to the 2 springs I left it off.The Blitz is great. :rocks:I'm getting 21 psi with just wastegate. So far I was able to get to 27psi :rocks:holding rock steady. But the popo was out in force so I had to curtail my...

No spiking. Had a .8 bar spring in it, which allowed 24psi solid boost. At the last dyno I couldn't sustain a good boost level any higher. So I added a small .5bar spring and got rid of my forge boost controller and got a Blitz DSBC. I'm about to test it out today.Connect the vac line to...

I"m using the punishment recirculating O2 with the ebay gate. It all bolted up perfectly.

I use the same one. Works great. If you don't wnat, it I'll take it.

Is your CAS on right? Are your plug wires in the right order?

That particular FPR is regulated to the fuel pump output. If your running a 255pump then you have to adjust it to the propper fuel pressue. Unless the particular FPR your using is for a 255 to regulate the output to 47psi. I don't think a stock non turbo fuel pump is anywhere near 255, I could...

No A/C in mine, I put in a fluidyne also and Jayracing ALT relocation. Keeps me cool.

Do you have a fuel pressure regulator. If the feul pump is overunning the FPR then your HI trim will show this, rich.

Just installed it, the face does not have backlight. I can adjust the settings but when I turn off car the thing resets itself!!!:(What could be wrong?:confused:Fullthrottletech is down:notgood:I'm setting this up in a Colt GT with 4g63.

255 loud especially since I don't have a backseat to muffle it.

I had trouble getting mine to calibrate, I found that I had to have the engine running for it to calibrate. My guess here is that it needs full power from the Altenator, amperage I'm guessing, to work right.

Exactly. Hotwire can't get wet or moisture on it. You get what is like fuel cut reaction.

I would rent a radiator pressure tester from Auto Zone, they didn't charge me anything for the rental, fill the radiator get it to operating temp. And pressure it to the max. You will find your leak.

I used one of the origenal mounting holes on the cyclone.

Are you saying your flywheel bolts or pressure plate bolts?

Did you remove clutch? Is the starter plate in? Is the starter tight?

Are you using the glycerin filled gauge or just reguler guage. I found the glycerin to fluctuate wuth heat. I set the pressure by starting the car with hood up. As soon as thermostat opens or 190degees water temp is acheived I set pressure. Once a month I check it this way.

Do you have the short square one or the tall one. I know not to descriptive. The reason I ask cause just last night my 90 AN elbow fitting cracked on me lastnight, this was with the short square AFPR. I have the tall one on my son's car, so I put that one on till I get the replacement elbow...

Check the Power Transiter connecter it might have come loose.

http://roadraceengineering.com/instructions/msd002.jpg Here is another diagram

Did you check the write-up in the tech articles? Is your switched 12v to MSD seperate from everything else?

Vacunm leak. Do a boostleak test.

So what is the best temp to run at???????????????????

How about speaking in the video saying what gear your in as you shift it. Was that with the shift cables hooked up?

Use Stainless Steel wool. Get from cooking supply places. It's used to clean aluminum pots and pans aas well as stainless.

I had a similar issue. I would be able to rev it out to redline maybe once and then it break up just cruising at around 3000rpm. Changed everything just like you did. Seemed once it got warm it would have same issue. I too HAD a black top CAS. Replaced it with a silver top CAS and no more issues.

How did it work out for you?

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Do you have experience with a T-25 setup?