jakk220 I have 3 OMNI 4 bar sensors and they all produce the same results, nothing different, here is the full pic of the engine bay, sorry i took so long I work on an oil rig so im away from home for days to even weeks on end so i have to wait until someone can actually be home to take the pic...
dont see the relevancy in this, however I did pull them out and they are indeed ID 1000cc's, after a couple days ironing things out the maf connector was not good so had that replaced and that took car of the car leaning out at idle issue, seems from the get go they were multiple issues with the...
Yes, the maf was bad and on top it wasn't grounded at the harness, what sensor could possibly cause a lean condition on idle and shut off the car after about 20 seconds?
Car was a indeed a project car that previous owner couldn't finish,I've checked everything electrical wise, everything is fine and reading proper voltage the injectors have been tested to work properly with noid light, I do not have any of the stock parts sadly, I'm really starting to think it...
Hey guys thanks for the replies,so the issue is when the car was in the process of converting to speed density, the maf ground was also cut therefore the maf was not able to pass on any readings to the ecu therefore dumping unholy levels of gas I also found out the maf was no good and replaced...
I was on the phone with the previous owner, there was no safc or any piggy back stuff, the only time I turned down the AFPR to 5 psi was after we went to SD
My tuner switched it over to speed density I have an omni 4 bar map and gm iat, before we switched over to SD the maf would let the car be extremely lean when we switched to SD it does the opposite and runs extremely rich
The blackbox h8 ecu is the 98/99 gst/gsx ecu my car is a 97 gst I guess original owner swapped it out. What baffled me was the tuner even scaled the injectors to 2000cc just to see if that would lean things out and the car just doesn't respond the anything he dialed in, he was at my house for...
Thanks for all the info and help guys, tuner still wasn't able to get the car running right even after the resistor plug delete, at this point I'm not sure what to do,same issues again car runs pig rich 9 to 10s after startup and won't run unless foot is on the gas, I have evoscan software would...
The air filter is completely fine, i took a picture of the injector still on the rail, seems to be ID 1000cc blue injectors, they are high impedance as well, i took a photo of the plug from the resistor box, is this the one that needs to be soldered together or with an resistor delete plug?thank you
I took a picture of the injector it looks like the blue ID 1000CC injector but we'll still try pulling the fuel, also i took a picture of the plug from the resistor box, are these the wires that needed to be soldered together or have the resistor box delete plug attached?
Tuner will be back today, i'll provide him with all the info you guys have given me, The car currently has a brand new air filter, the tuner suggested using NGK BR8ES gapped at 22 and Taylor 77232 wires, he swears by them i've put faith in him cause he's tuned a bunch of evos here and a couple...
So from what i understand from the post,Im suppose to buy a resistor delete plug or do it myself and solder 5 wires together? is this something that must be done to run 1000cc ID injectors properly?thanks
Hey guys once again i appreciate the help i raised it back to 43 PSI but still no start, ill read up on the link and see if the resistor pack was properly deleted and get back to ya'll
Hi guys I have been through days of google searching trying to pinpoint the issue i'm having and everything leads to a dead end with no answers. My car is 1997 GST with a H8 blackbox ecu, 1000cc id injectors,holset hx35, walbro 255 fuel pump, tomei AFPR and other mods such as big fmic. I took a...