If they are indeed aftermarket cams, you don't just slap on the original cam gears, time it and call it good LOL. Cams usually have a 4 degrees advancement ground into them, so you would need to retard or advance the intake/exhaust with adjustable cam gears to hit the perfect power range or even...

yea looking at them now they might not be the fidanza's, Since both cam gears are worn pretty good LOL, I will double check they might be the OBX 420a Cam gearsEither way your going to have to fine tune the cams for it to runs smooth but it works

Crower & Brian Crower (BC cams) no longer offer staged 420a performance cams on either of the main website's they haven't for the last 6 months, that's how long CI motorsports has been trying to get a hold of some, if you look on CI motorsports website it says shipped by the "manufacturer" not...

Before pulling the stock cams on the Neon make sure it is set at TDC and copy down the first lobes positioning on the intake and exhaust (Ex. on the 420a cams the dowel pin on the intake cam is at 6 O'clock and the exhaust is at 12 O'clock) this causes the first lobes on the intake side to be at...

So here is the jist of my Frankenstein 420a build. A week ago I had both the #3 exhaust cam cap bolts snap and my Crower Stage 2 (3/4 race) exhaust camshaft snapped like a twig under the pressure. On top of that found out Crower and Brian Crower no longer make performance camshafts for the 420a...

crank sensor, just above oil filter on a 420a. This is a common issue. I delt with the same hair pulling issue bro, its the crank sensor!

It depends on manufacturer honestly, majority of OEM's are riveted like Luk and Exedy. I did quite a bit of research on what clutch to go with while still retaining it as "modular" for the 420a and keeping it under $200 So I went with South East Clutch's S2 modular clutch with HD Miba Copper...

FYI I already know that, and FYI this is a modular clutch with non rivets holding it in it has standard allen key screws NOT RIVETS keeping the modular clutch together

this you were right on 100% thank you found a fix that works good

Dropped the transmission to find out the pressure plate was tighten down too hard, would not allow for proper/or a full push on the fingers as well as too much play in the fork itself which is weird since its new. I fixed it with some sand paper and a tiny dab of steel stick as a mold and...

I am gonna have to drop the tranny and see whats going on I just find it so weird it runs/drives great when the front end is just barely off the ground (enough to burn a little rubber ;) shifts great) but wont go into gear when on ground

yes this i did that properly when i put it back together and its a brand new clutch but i feel its not disengaging as well like you said with minimal load it rolls beautifully but once placed on ground nada

I find it weird I can drive it while its up, no issue's at all but once I drop it on the ground it wont shift like it did while it was up this engine is completely New with a new clutch..... trans had no issue prior to engine take out

its blocked from going into any gear with pedal pressed in and car on ground, no grinds, no pop outs when pedal is depressed I can shift into gears just fine. when you place the gear in 1st and start the car it jolts forward like its engaged already when you start of the car

I have driven it while it was up (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, R) All worked and it never slipped out of gear and shifted nicely, but like i said lay it back on ground and it wont shift anymore

with the pedal not pressed in it shifts in gear's fine (like normal), but start the car and press the pedal in and it wont shift in to any gear, but lift the front end and it will shift and drive just fine I'm thinking air bubble but i've bled it 100times

Alright, since rebuilding the RS 420a engine (blew the old one up), the car runs good and idles beautifully, the only issue I seem to be having is when the car is on the ground it does not want to shift into any gear, here's the kicker when I lift the car's front end up off ground (no...

cheapest 1g CAS I could find was $135 on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Camshaft-Synchronizer-For-CAS-W-Wire-Lead-DSM-1G-1991-1994-GSX-TSI-VR-4/174219765538

did you get the right plate? and/or did you install a/the new crank sensor plate the right way. LOL have to ask? and https://stmtuned.com/collections/1g-2g-dsm-eclipse-talon-laser-4g63-engine-sensors/products/kiggly-racing-4g63-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit might be a solution to crank...

Almost everything for a 1g is rare now days, that 1g cam sensor is like $500 at some auto parts store's around here. its ridiculous, but glad to see it was the crank sensor for the first issue. Now for your other issue's, since it is/was back to working order..... why not go back to stock...

stainless steel bolts are a superior metal for heat application (example Exhaust) and strength it does not stretch under repeated stress, so you get no bolt fatigue

I have ran into this issue as well when trying to bolt a new turbo T25 to T4 flange with new bolts (it sucks), looks like you tried a SAE threaded bolt in a Metric thread, result = stripped it right down, so find a slightly bigger drill bit that can go thru stainless steel, drill them out, find...

glad it's a back to normal

change crank sensor if its still doing it and you changed every sensor, since you replaced cam sensor and didn't fix the issue that leaves one viable option your crank sensor

All cylinders work just fine replaced piston and rod and still have 170psi thru each cylinder and yes that is jb weld steel stick took 5 of them but is rated for 4500 psi so the no way this engine will make any where near that amount of psi in oil pan area but yeah it holds nicelyMore focused...

uhhh cracked block......very shitty.....:toobad:I still have a 10inch hole from throwing a rod thru the front of my 420a 98 RS, 2yrs ago and I'm still driving it, still runs strong, no oil leaks, no damage to cylinder walls, but damage to the crank, will be sourcing a short block replacement...

Either ECU fuel cut or a bad crankshaft sensor since it happens after a few high rev's and a hold around 3500rpm, this is one of the main culprits, I lean towards crankshaft sensorI noticed you said you replaced the CAM sensor or went with a 99 but I do not see you say you replaced the Crank...

well for something like that it probably won't spit code unless it happens for more than a few seconds but an ECU log will catch it most definitely. The best bet, if you have an extra ECU lying around you, could change ECU out with a different one to see if the same symptoms happen this one's a...

sound's a lot like an ECU fuel cut, you will need ECM Link to log it and see why and where it happens, what fuel pump you running? is a majority of the intake parts stock? like the injectors,etc. Are you running a stock 14b or T25 turbo's, whats boost psi sitting at?

1. local auto store and buy the universal flat 3 prong pigtail that you need 2. cut the old wire at the same length as the new one 3. wire it your self (it's 3 wires, match colored wire the best you can)

junk yard or someone's parts car is your best bet at this point in time or check out here https://millerimportparts.com/Vehicle-Speed-Sensor-VSS-for-Manual-Turbo-95-99-Eclipse-Talon-P2627950.aspxdont worry about if/its turbo'ed or not because that does not matter as long as it is a manual for...

Here is the main part and or if you need to buy the gear spindle only but it is a lot harder to find I would eBay or amazon it...

yes the plate that attaches to the cam gear

If you are still getting a cam sensor code even tho you replaced, you need to wipe the code. take a test start/run, see if it pops code again, if it does replace the metal plate the cam sensor attaches too (this is probably worn down so the new cam sensor will still mess up) The EVAP is not...

check the cam sensor magnet is probably bad, this will cause backfiring and misfiring and sputter dying, this was the same problem my GSX had when I bought it from a kid, he did not know why it was doing it and ripping his hair out trying to figure it out instead sold it and it took me 10 mins...

the crank sensor is your culprit! A crank sensor going bad will cause intermittent dying or a no start problem, the cam sensor will cause misfiring when bad but it will start at the least since they're a magnet it is probably bad and not reading the crank's position to fire properly this can...

My 98 RS had no fob couldn't find one for the life of me but I did somehow (late night searching) I use an aftermarket model Marksman X3 FCC ID H50T21

My Crower stage 2's are 248/248 and I love them perfect for street use, tuned right these give decent power for 420a Right now I have mine tuned for high top-end power (power is felt around 3500rpm and really felt at 5000rpm) gives that great boggy lope but I'm going to put more bottom power to...

that's your choice if you have air conditioning you need the conditioning fans if you don't then delete that fuse area

if you have one on both sides and the pic shows it's only supposed to have one, then I think someone added on one extra piece, it will keep it from tightening all the way or give it a tighter feel

the belts to long, the tensioner is not tightening down properly, the continental serpentine belt is short enough to keep it tighter and give you the AC and PS back cause these cars are a nightmare without PS, AC is managable

https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/belt/continental-serpentine-belt-4050508/940887_0_8287I used this one on my 420a and haven't had a problem since and I got PS an AC also check the pulley its self are there knick's or cuts in grooves of metal that will also tear...

very well maintained the same color as mine I'm keeping that color with some added pearl and light gold flake and gold rims

I recently relocated the battery to the rear and moved the fuse box to where the battery used to be. I thought the same thing till I traced to what it went to, alternator wire is what that branches off of to give power to the conditioning fans. white/red wire is for the conditioning fan

so my bad just a little clarification on that did some digging a your 1990 GSX fuel pressure operating PSI is 43I would check both these options (fuel pressure regulator, Crankshaft position sensor) since they are important for proper engine operationHigher RPMs require more fuel pressure to...

for one stock fuel pressure on a 1g and early 2ga 4g63 FPR is 46psi not 37psi on 2gb RS its 50psi

well for one that screech is the alternator belt or power steering belt, its either tight or not tight enough could be the cause of battery not charging properly! (may still charge but not properly)that idle drop is horrendous check the fuel pump / fuel filter / fpr may be failing to feed...

i used a https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/auto-maintenance-repair/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html when I cracked my crank sprocket to get it off on my 420athe harmonic balance puller comes in real handy so just buy one of amazon this is the one i bought and has never failed me...

1aauto.com has a lot of suspension parts for our cars it's where i found my replacement suspension kit ended up buying the $226 complete suspension rebuild kit came with it allthey have rear passenger and driver side but are out of stock cause its the only place to buy them lol :banghead...

yea those capacitors are toasted think about sending in the ecu to ecmlink.com and have them change the board out with a ecmlink one and have a tunable car