I appreciate the help everyone. I made the adjustments and will post a log when I get a chance

I am running a stock 2g maf, not on speed density. I will post up another log when I'm at work. I know it's a lean stumble-because the wideband will read anywhere from 16.8-22.0 when I press on the gas initially. Once it starts to move it corrects back to ~14.7.

Yes. No boost leaks

These are my settings for the same WB. It is dead on for me I set it up as a linear wideband

I'm having a hard time with throttle tip in. Whenever I step on the gas pedal from a 0% throttle position, I lean out badly for a second then it returns to normal AFR. I adjusted the BaseTipInTPSAdj in direct access and didn't help anything. I'm stumped if anyone can help I'd appreciate it. I...

Got another update, Everything sorted out with the cooling system, motor is healthy. I have found the cause of all my problems I have had for months. My timing belt auto tensioner has failed and does not keep adequate tension on the timing belt. I ordered all new timing components and they will...

If you register your car outside of the major cities, you are free from emissions testing. You just have to know someone that has an address somewhere outside city limits. For example, I have my car registered in green valley and I’m living in Tucson. When you do this though, you sign a form...

Got the new head/headgasket installed yesterday. Turns out a cut end of a zip tie made its way into one of the intake valves on #1 keeping it stuck open.Now I’m dealing with another problem. Started up just fine but I have constant little bubbles coming out of the thermostat housing and my...

I am too a LUV owner, I've had 4 of them now down to 2. They're neat little trucks. Very interested in where this build goes because I've considered this swap myself

Here's an update. After a long electrical battle with the injectors not firing, the headgasket blew on its first drive in months. Put a "good" rebuilt head with new gasket and ARP studs. Turns out I have a few bent valves. I made sure it was in time when i put it together and also rolled it...

I just turned onto a street and realized my temp gauge was rising, and quickly pulled over. I slowly opened the rad cap and there was no coolant in it at all. Waited for it to cool down and added more, drove off and it was blowing steam out of the tailpipe and quickly began to get hot. Ran...

I purchased a head for it a while ago from a friend that needed money that came with the revised lifters. The car has a new cylinder head on it as well with the revised lifters

I definitely give this car a beating once in a while, just sucks that it all started with changing the throttle body. Anyway its a good excuse for some head studs and a new aluminum radiator that I've been wanting to get. While I'm on here, is there anything that I should look into replacing...

It never seems to end with this car. Fixed the timing and blew a head gasket shortly after. Seems like my luck is a little down lately ROFL

Pics

Good news, it’s timed and runs again. Timing was way off. Here’s some pictures of the marks after I re timed it. My balance shafts are deleted as well

Still a 7 bolt, just installed the 1G CAS to eliminate the under cam gear CAS and the CPS.

Thank you guys. Hopefully it'll all be good on Wednesday

Thank you, this is my first time with a timing belt.

What can I use to take the tension off of the hydraulic tensioner? I took it to a shop when I had the t belt done and I don't have the special long bolt to do so

I appreciate the replies. I will be checking the timing once I get some time. I believe it is the intake cam that is out of time because when I originally took the gears off that one was a pain to get back on. If I find that gear is out of time, is there a way to get it back in time without...

Yes I had a timing light on it last night. Grounded timing. When I had the bottom end at 5* it would barely run. When I was playing around with the CAS is when I could get it to run/rev, but was way too advanced

I swapped plug wires and inverted the CAS signal through link. Is there a way that I could correct the timing without taking the belt off? it is in my driveway at the moment and I can't get the car in the air

I just installed a 1g CAS, and I can’t get it to run right. I’ve put it in correctly many times with all the marks lined up, and it will only run when I have the sensor really advanced. When it runs, it idles around 2-3k with 15 in vacuum. When I have it where it should be, it idles around 700...

Small update. Car has a nasty boost leak, and still needs to be timed correctly after the new CAS was put in. Starts and idles, but has a nasty surge. I want to thank everybody that took the time to help me on this. I will post another update when it is back to normal.

Here’s good newsI installed a 1g CAS and the adapter harness tonight, and it runs on all 4! I think when I installed the sensor I installed it out of time, because it sounds like the timing is retarded. Idles smoothly but stumbles when revved.

Thank you guys. Then that rules out the CAS and the CPS then

Okay then that rules out the wiring to the CPS and the CAS then. When I was cranking I had 2.4 volts at the CPS. I have a 1G CAS on the way with the adapter harness which will go on when it gets here. If the CPS and the CAS are tested good, what else could be the problem?

I’m only getting 2.5v on the crank sensor signal wire. I’m getting 5v on the cam sensor wire. This is all wile the key is on not cranking. Is this normal?

Still available will let go cheap

Bump

I have rpm when it fires, but not when cranking. It has always been like that. I’m running out of ideas myself. I rewired the signal wire from the CAS and still the same thing. Maybe a CPS problem?

I have completely re wired the cas to the ecu using known good wires and soldering them together, to the same effect. I disconnected the ecu before swapping throttle bodies, and have tested multiple known good ecus as well. I suspected the CAS, so I replaced it to no avail. I have also tested...

Code for cas circuit malfunction.

Back to the same problem. And still throwing same code.

I checked cas wires, pulled them around and proved it to the ecu. Now I have fuel In all 4, but only spark in 1 and 4, allowing it to idle. Throwing code for camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction.

Check the MAF plug, also check injector wiring. One of my injector wires came off a few months ago and it ran like that. Boost leak test it too while you're at it

To verify the injectors, I used 2 different noid lights, and 2 ECUs to make sure it that wasn’t it. I have swapped injectors to have the same affect. I will check my CAS wiring, which is a 2Ga under the intake cam sensor. I will check for CAS signal at the computer

I guess what I’m trying to ask here is what all controls the injectors. Like from the ecu to the injector itself.

I’ll once again check the wiring at the cas. It is brand new too. I have no idea at this point what else could be the culprit

I tried probing the ecu, and not getting ground pulse. The only things I disconnected were the tps and the iac. I’m stumped. What else is there to check that I haven’t listed? Remember I have spark throughout all 4. Is there specific grounds I should be looking for? I added another battery...

Wired the injectors straight from the ecu, still no change. Im at a loss here. Any ideas?

Just to make sure, the ecu wire that runs to the injector is on the passenger side of the pigtail right?

I will continue to look for broken wires. And I have no codes in the ecu, I checked them through link

How would I go about re wiring the injectors? It must be a broken wire somewhere and I can’t find it for the life of me

Tried a new CAS, no start still

Also I have checked every ground I could see. I really appreciate all the input here :D

I tested ECU with another working ECU. I ordered a CAS today. Mine is old so it will be replaced anyway. If that doesn't work then I will trace the wiring back through the loom again to see if I see any breaks. Worst comes to worst I will replace the wires.

I thought it was the resistor box too, but I replaced it with a known good resistor and same symptoms

Any help is really appreciated. Need to get this car back on the road