This is why I didn't mention it earlier. The LCA's are front end suspension parts. Have you checked/replaced them?

When I did the bushings on the front I found that the rear pin was rotted out like the ones in this thread. (Mine weren't quite this bad but they were loose and rusty) https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-lower-control-arm-rusted.410071/I actually changed the bushing first and had issues...

That's a good question for another Tech Article. I'm not sure if the comparison makes more sense between the USDM NA models or how they are different between the USDM Turbo models and the European NA cars?

I got that, but what wasn't clear is if the ECU turns on (CEL Light, Boost Gauge moves) when you first turn the key to the ON/RUN position or until you turn it to START (all the way).What happens if you get DSMLink to connect but don't actually start the car by stopping it from cranking...

I'm not sure what you're describing with the ignition switch? When does the ECU start up?

Doesn't look to me like either end is very clean and smooth. The pick up pipe looks corroded and the o-ring looks dry and dirty.

From here I couldn't guess. I suggest you continue with your multimeter since it looks like you have many splices in your wiring in that area.There are three things I was hoping to do with my post. One was to clarify which pin was pin 1 on the PTU connector since it's often confused. Second...

Factory 2G 4G63 and 4G64 ignition wiring1 1.25L/B (Coil 2-3) 2 BR/R (ECU 2-3) 3 1.25B Ground 4 W (Tach) 5 NC 6 2B/W (+12v) 7 B/L (ECU 1-4) 8 1.25B/W (Coil 1-4)Yours looks like it's done 1 B - L/B 2 W - BR 3 L - B/W (B?) 4 Y - W 5 NC 6 GR - B/W 7 BR - B/L 8 R - B/WPin 1 Would be the Black...

I guess you'll have to learn by dirty hands and busted knuckles.

Two different MAP sensors? Did it work this way before? I don't see KeyStart turned on why you're cranking and the battery voltage falls to 9.6V. Does it need a good charge? Not getting KeyStart usually implies a wiring issue. Is this a 2.1L engine? Why have you changed your Direct Access Load...

Rather than jump around with multiple threads it can be helpful to stick to one so everyone has history and can move forward instead of asking the same questions over and over.What vacuum lines you'll need will come into play as you get farther along. Typically, you need lines for your BOV...

That clip is a great idea but I always found those A pillar gauge pods blocked my view so I went the vent route. I had a carbon fiber test panel from the F-117 Nighthawk my brother-in-law had given me and I cut out a bezel from it. There is a possibility that is the most expensive part on the...

DSMLink gives you lots of tools but shitty injectors give shitty idles.

So tell us, what was the compression and post a DSMLink log of at least one attempt to start it.

I was trying to dig a bit since I can't see how the Noid Light is working but the injectors aren't.

When did it last start up on it's own?

Do you have a better picture of where you grafted the PTU to the car harness. I can't read all the wire colors and it looks like you have more Black/White wires than you should.

Sorry to hear that but it answers a few questions.

How long have you been running the PTU loose like that? They need a heatsink to survive.

Cool, that helps explain your post. Thanks

I'm not sure how much help I can provide but now that you have the matching fuse box for your harness do they connect? If they do what are your current issues?

What's the advantage of this versus the lower control arm or have you replaced those with tubular ones without mounting points?

There are many such lists online. I've provided one focused on USDM ECUs @ http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/ECUID.html for at least 20 years.I'm more than happy to update it for other markets given qualified data.

I suspect that depends on exactly which version of the Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors you get. They make them for a variety of cars and one of the differences is the how the Bosch injector is mated to the head or intake.

Before you do all that just check for spark.

Please don't hijack Iluvboost189's thread. He's still trying to solve his issues. Your questions are best addressed in your own thread https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/99-spyder-gs-4g64-to-4g63t-swap.546316/

Here's the deal, you can run 37psi or 43psi if you want as long as you scale the injector global correctly. A 1G ECU expects 450cc (measured at 43.5psi) being run as ~37psi. That's an effective flow rate of about 411cc. If you change the size (both sets of injectors sized at 43.5psi/3bar) but...

Moved since this has little to do with swapping a Turbo engine into a 1G NA.Please don't hack up the 2G head to fit your 1G intake manifold. Use a small port IM to keep the correct airflow.

Nope, just tired of people wasting his time. I don't blame him one bit.

I didn't see any pictures in your profile with the intake on ...All I see in a quick look is that the fuel global is set of 1027cc injectors and you say they are 950cc. In the log, the airflow #s are hard to believe as are the injector pulse widths and low RPMs for cranking. I'm only running...

This one (see post #1) is and that's why he doesn't have a CLUTCH reservoir in it.

As if Facebook wasn't bad enough. If you feel you need a chat server just make a generic DSM one. :)

That looks like the Boost Control Solenoid (Waste Gate Control Solenoid) and are you sure you didn't disconnect the one line from the MAF tube when you removed it to dig around there? I believe that like attaches to a nipple on the MAF snorkel after the MAF so that the air released by the BCS is...

Many 2Gs for various reasons have the accessory belt squeal from it slipping on startup and sometimes when turning. Sometimes it's due to belt tightness, others the cleanliness of the pulleys and belt, yet others from misalignment of the pulleys. 1Gs don't seem to have this as much.Your idle...

Lovely 2G belt slipping. Doesn't sound very even at idle. Have you checked the compression? What did you gap the new plugs to when you changed them?

If you have a Multimeter (If not, now is a good time to buy one) you measure the resistance of each of the four coils inside.The connector has 6 pins arranged as 2 rows of 3. The center pin of each row is the common so you measure pin 1 to pin 2 and pin 2 to pin 3 then the same for the next...

The FIAV is on the bottom of the throttle body. The IAC bolts to part of the casting.Define idles rough? If the engine isn't running correctly it's hard for the IAC to work. Speaking of what was wrong with the old IAC, if any of it's coils shorted that also kills the driver IC's in the ECU.

Your picture must have been before you changed the spark plug wires.The ECU and TCU depend on getting the idle position signal from the TPS to know to manage the engine idle and keep it from dieing under load. The idle system has several other parts, the BISS on the top of the TB, the IAC...

EB20 was the only US 4G63 NA version I've seen for DSM's. You'll have to dig through it to find the timing map and then figure out if the values and axes make sense for what you're trying to do.

Never hurts to find a 2G EPROM ECU. :)

There have been a bunch of injectors in the past that were just junk. Their D.C. linearity was poor and inconsistent from injector to injector but they were relatively cheap so people bought them and had issues.

I assume you mean the upper part?Image from https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-and-modify-a-power-steering-pump.345914/I don't remember any other crush washers just the o-rings and the notched washer and nut. I also don't see them in the FSM.

No, but you will want to set it to TDC before you put the head on and align the cam sprockets with the dowel pins up also before you place it on the block.

From your other post it was clear you got yourself a basketcase, so I'm trying to give you an idea of the resources at your disposal and some of the issues you'll have to identify to be successful along with enough information so you can figure it out.

Not only is it mangled but it look like some of the wires are solid copper not stranded and the ground wire has broken insulation.2G's have two individual sensors where a 1G has them combined in it's CAS. When you swap a 1G engine into a 2G you have several choices to make regarding how and...

Looks like you finally in a position to begin tweaking things. Take your time and read the various primers on the ECMTuning site.

I believe this is the one that fits on the fuel filter. https://stmtuned.com/products/46054-bm-fuel-pressure-gauge-100-psiOtherwise you're looking for a adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and the plumbing to attach. Something like...

Nope, not really. You need something that either replaces the banjo fitting at the fuel filter with a port or between the feed line and the rail or the rail and the fuel pressure regulator.Without an adjustable FPR (which usually will have a port for a gauge) you can't change the pressure anyway.

No, you need to reattach it to pin 1.There is how a 1G CAS is connected on a 1G. The white wire on pin 1 is for the cam angle signal, The black wire on pin 2 is for the TDC (crank angle) signal. The red wire on pin 3 is the switched +12v power and the black wire on pin 4 the ground.On a...

Only the ones that are bold are changed on the DA maps. The black forward/back arrow next to the red X allows you to switch between the stock settings and current to see the differences.These might help a bit.http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/stock_settings...